Jellybean Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Havn`t got a clue sorry mate, it will depend on how much you lower the car as to what angle it affects the arb, also defo don`t go too low with the front as you WILL have rubbing issues, the 685lbs springs arent really stiff enough for the supra.as i found out! I was going to mimic the TRD Bilsteins I have on there , I think is 30mm lower than stock; they use OE drop links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 2, 2018 Author Share Posted July 2, 2018 Am I right in thinking all I need to do is bore out the top mount a little ? Instructions do not make sense , everything fits together nicely without the need to remove any bump stops or spring pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Yes you have to drill out the top mount for the damper rod to come through then the purple collar just fits over the rubber on the top mount, i put a little bit of washing up liquid on the rubber so it goes on easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuneR Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 i put a little bit of washing up liquid on the rubber so it goes on easier. That's what she said:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 2, 2018 Author Share Posted July 2, 2018 (edited) Yes you have to drill out the top mount for the damper rod to come through then the purple collar just fits over the rubber on the top mount, i put a little bit of washing up liquid on the rubber so it goes on easier. Thats what I taught , but the instructions said to remove the bump stop from the front OE top mount and spring pad/bump stop from rear ; Rear top mount there is no means of dismantling Maybe the facelift and pre facelift top mounts are different , instructions are based off pre-facelift ; I cannot see a reason the top mount will interfere You do not remeber what drill bit you used , looks like a 12 or 14 Edited July 2, 2018 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 standing on the hub on the rear helped for mine, gives enough downwards movement to get the shock out. If you're my weight anyway lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 standing on the hub on the rear helped for mine, gives enough downwards movement to get the shock out. If you're my weight anyway lol Thanks Ric I emailed KW for confirmations the instructions are correct Considering the cost of them , I do not like I have to drill out my new OE top mounts ; they should be machined to fit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Thanks Ric I emailed KW for confirmations the instructions are correct Considering the cost of them , I do not like I have to drill out my new OE top mounts ; they should be machined to fit! Mate you need to just drill the small square part out of the hole, sure it was 12mm, theres no other way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus GTE Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Yep, done it too. Can’t remember the bit size, but just drilled out the slotted section to the same diameter as the rest of it. It didn’t take too long.... unlike the 8 hours or so changing everything over! Deary me. (Drop link issues) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Emailed KW Not particularly helpful, considering I indicated to them, I have oe Toyota top mounts I think if you do not use the rear oe rubber donut, metal on metal will cause issue ^KW response I have forwarded these pictures to the factory, they cannot see any reason why you need to drill the top mounts out other than Toyota possibly making a change to the top mounts since we had a car in for R&D or that the top mounts you have are possibly pattern parts and not the OE top mounts. Of course we do not know if they are genuine or pattern parts but it is just a possibility. ^ The R&D work was carried out by our American facility and they have said that if you leave the OE rubbers in the top mount then you may not achieve the ride height you wish. Plus we provide the new bump stops and dust covers so they advise that you still remove these parts as per our installation manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus GTE Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) Is it not something to do with being pre facelift? As in the facelift cars don’t have the slot in the middle? Could be wrong, but rings a bell. As in maybe that’s what they used for development nd assume all OEM is like that. Disappointing support from them. IIRC I didn’t get great help when complained about squeaking while going over speed bumps etc. Said it was normal. It was too long ago to remember what I did while assembling them to be sure. I could look at what I have left over to see what I didn’t use. Edited July 11, 2018 by Marcus GTE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 I put that forward to them as an explantation , facelift versus Pre facelift The rear top mount , without using the rubber donut it has the potential for alot of movement and one nut holding it in place ; I could she it moving around on the top mount plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 So, what you need to fit the OÉ top mounts 12 mm drill bit, I got a staggered drill bit Drill Wd40 Top nut on the kW is 19mm Secure the top mount, drill all the way through, front mount I found starting from the stud facing at you was easiest and the rear, with the studs facing away Wind off the lower collar on the kW Undo the top nut Remove the kW purple anodised cup The front mount you retain the oe rubber to stop the kW mounting cup from having the ability to move around(it will not affect the ride height) For ease of installation, wd40 the rubber, fit the kW cup mount Install back onto the shock and screw on The top nut The rear top mount, undo the shock top nut, fit into the kW cup and reinstall the top nut To protect against corrosion, I would also suggest to acf50 the top mounts at this point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus GTE Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 Well done :thumns: Glad you got it sorted, sorry I couldn’t be more help at the time. It was too long ago to remember the details. Hope you enjoy them P.s as has been stated before, if you go too low on the front it can rub the arches. Think the springs are a bit soft. I love them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 Does it matter how the blue dot on the top Mount's is positioned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 .......And it took 3 weeks to work all that out lol:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 .......And it took 3 weeks to work all that out lol:) I am not going to butcher a 400 euro set of oe mounts if I don't have to Taking the suspension off today, its clear the instructions are for pre face-lift mounts (are now discontinued), face-lift mounts are different in construction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 Glad she looks like before, did 4km drive, first impressions, she soaks up the bumps, everything is set to KW default settings Compared to the TRD Bilsteins she feels like she is on air, a bit floaty at the moment but will give it some mileage before I adjust anything She is off to Murray Motorsport Tuesday for an alignment and super pro lower camber adjustment bushes What do you lads run? Compression and dampening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Wow that looks low, you had any rubbing yet? tyres on wheels arch liners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 Wow that looks low, you had any rubbing yet? tyres on wheels arch liners? No all good , same ride height as the TRD setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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