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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

VAG Coil conversion


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[ATTACH=CONFIG]224472[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]224473[/ATTACH]

 

My mapper fitted them to my car this month as wasn't getting a good spark and use the Audi Red Tops a lot. Not got car back yet tho but spark is spot on now.

 

Mike, do you have any custom brackets to hold yours in or just pushed on?

 

I've found no need for custom brackets other than aesthetics maybe. Have used them on a lot of builds and done a lot of miles and never had issues with spark with them so far. They do a really good job of staying in place even when just pushed on.

what needs to be done from a wiring point of view? Am i correct in saying pin 3 is heavy ignition live & pin 2 is engine block ground, what are the other 2?

 

Depends if you are running stock ECU or standalone ECU, as the wiring changes slightly between both setups. The pinout for the plug is 12v Power, Power Ground, Ignition Signal, Signal Ground

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its non vvti on the stock ecu

 

In essence you need to do a fair bit of wiring to get it to work with this setup. I would not recommend this if you don't mind a bit of trial and error and are comfortable with reading wiring diagrams & performing wiring.

 

From the ECU, there are 1-6 ignition output signal wires that go to stock igniter unit. You need to rewire these signal cables straight to the VAG coils (pin 3). After that you need to provide the 12v power inputs to the coils & the required power/signal grounds.

 

The tacho signal is found at the igniter, so your wiring will also still need to incorporate this.

 

10x easier doing this using a standalone ecu.

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Would this not put more strain on the stock ECU if you're removing the ignitor?

 

Could do to be honest. My testing of vag coils on stock ecu is quite limited, got them working then wired in a standalone almost immediately after. So can't comment on how the stock ecu likes it long term

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Since igniters are manufactured to match ignition coil characteris-

tics, the function and construction of each type are different. For

this reason, if any igniter and coil other than those specified are

combined, the igniter or coil may be damaged. Therefore, always

use the corr

ect parts specified for the vehicle.

 

https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjwj7yy3rHYAhUDSBQKHSP_DM4QFghdMAY&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.deanza.edu%2Ffaculty%2Fwaltonjohn%2Fpdf%2FToyotaignition.pdf&usg=AOvVaw36jGN83oleZ8F-D2_G8-bT

 

impedence matching is important and some ECU/ignitor functions may not be correct with the stock ecu

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You also need to consider the dwell time a coil pack is designed to run at and what the ecu provides or can be mapped to provide. It might well be possible to overheat the driver FET's with coils of significantly different primary impedance. as people have said a fully mappable ecu will give the mapper headroom to accommodate coils of different characteristics. GTR igniters were unreliable at best, many blew when triggering none stock coils (and stock ones too, but especially "performance" coils). I run Volvo S90 / V90 / 960 igniters on most things as they are cheap and vert robust when on a decent heat sink.

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