Jellybean Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 (edited) Hey Whifbitz T4 kit on 2jzGTE A80 non-vvti , basic tools , spanners...no power tools, compressors , heat sources Taking the 23 year old OE tubbies off and putting the whifbitz kit on looks very straight forward, want to leverage on members experience ; save some $$, see if it is a viable option I have an aftermarket ECU with wideband setup to run BPU on the OE VSV's , would it be possible to drive her off boost to the garage , 125 miles away? Tow Truck will cost similar in price to get the garage to install the kit (Need other work done outside my comfort zone) What has me worried is the wiring , we will OE plugs left over (VSV , these are generally just tied up?) , do you need to blank off vacuum ports, do anything with water lines? I know the Block top water feed pipe needs to be blocked off , 2 bungs in the whifbitz kit The lower water pipe feed , Turbo kit clear ?, I know some kits need either an adapter to allow the lower pipe to rotate away from the block or use an NA lower pipe I have new Manifold studs to go on , do these need to be torqued in , any special tools needed to take off , copper grease?? Any pitfalls , caveats to look out for? Edited December 8, 2017 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 (edited) Not doubting your abilities to wield a spanner mate, but have you checked with Paul regarding the validity of the warranty on the turbo and the rest of the kit if it is installed by someone "uncertified" to carry out the installation? And I think all manufacturer's warranty is out the window unless the engine's lubrication system is given a clean bill of health after a thorough inspection, to see if it is in need of any attention, prior to plumbing in the turbo, to minimise the risk of contamination and premature failure. Edited December 8, 2017 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 Might not be worth the hassle to safe a few hundred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Might not be worth the hassle to safe a few hundred What garage are you driving to 125miles away carlo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 Marty And Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 (edited) Good lads lot experience with supra s might be best let them do whole installation. Can they map your motec ecu. Will it be finished before xmas carlo Edited December 8, 2017 by nigelboyne (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Might not be worth the hassle to safe a few hundred I'd imagine not dude, when compared to the cost of the kit. And the unexpected cost of a second! It's such a quality upgrade, as all yours tend to be, that it would be only proper to have it professionally fitted. It's money saved in the long run. As you say, bolting it on would probably be simple enough, but it's all the little things that experience has taught a specialist that separates them from us and their successes from our cluster-f**ks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 (edited) I have an aftermarket ECU with wideband setup to run BPU on the OE VSV's , would it be possible to drive her off boost to the garage , 125 miles away? Tow Truck will cost similar in price to get the garage to install the kit (Need other work done outside my comfort zone) Yes that is possible. Assuming you are not upgrading your fuel system in any way, then the VE of the engine off boost won't change by putting on a new turbo kit. So driving off boost will be fine. If you really want to play it safe, leave an intercooler pipe disconnected so it can't build boost. Won't be a fun drive but it'll get your from point A to B. What has me worried is the wiring , we will OE plugs left over (VSV , these are generally just tied up?) , do you need to blank off vacuum ports, do anything with water lines? I know the Block top water feed pipe needs to be blocked off , 2 bungs in the whifbitz kit You can cut off additional plugs, but if you want to keep the wiring in a way that will allow you to revert to stock loom then you will need to find a creative way to tie the extra plugs out the way. You should be able to get away with hiding them under the rocker cover trim. Water lines may still need to be used if your turbo requires a water in/water out. However, you may still some extra water ports that will need to be blocked off. Bung with a jubilee clip will be enough to block it, and will allow you to revert to stock again. Any vacuum ports that aren't being used anymore can be bunged in a similar fashion. The lower water pipe feed , Turbo kit clear ?, I know some kits need either an adapter to allow the lower pipe to rotate away from the block or use an NA lower pipe Should be ok on clearance if Whifbitz have not mentioned otherwise in their advert/supplied in kit. You may find space might be a little tight between lower water pipe feed and your intercooler pipes, but normally ok. Best to clarify with them. I have new Manifold studs to go on , do these need to be torqued in , any special tools needed to take off , copper grease?? Manifold studs removal can be tricky, especially on a 20 year old head. They have a torx head that you can get a tool on to try to loosen them. But if you're unlucky the torx end will just break in your tool. Or sometimes the entire stud will shear off, which turns the job into a nightmare. So proceed with caution with this, you may have to try some tricks like heating up the stud before removal etc. If you do get them out in one piece then putting in new ones is pretty straightforward. Bit of copper grease won't hurt. As for torque settings, the closest I can find on the factory manual for them is. Generally you just need to get them in and tighten a little past handtight. They don't need to be done really tight as you might risk pulling the thread out of the ally head. Edited December 8, 2017 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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