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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Bouncing idle when warm & Remote locking not working


NJ.

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Got two issues with my 94 TT Auto. Its been sat for 7 years and almost ready for an mot

 

Its had new plugs, cambelt, vac lines, coolant change, idle control valve cleaned, throttle butterfly cleaned, fresh fuel, new fuel filter

 

Runs fine when cold but idle bounced up and down 750-1000rpm when up to temp. No cel light, showing no faults

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Second issue, car will not lock or unlock with the buttons on the key (grey key with green lock button - jspec)

 

Locks fine with the key in the door, and locks both doors

 

Ive searched but cannot find any info on reprogramming / pairing etc

 

 

Thanks, Nathan

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You could check this pipe.....if it's off then it can cause a high idle, may be yours is perished leaking? (could be various things though)

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?318978-Hose-missing-off-power-steering-pump!&highlight=idle+power+steering

 

Re the key sounds like you have an original central locking key, these are rare and most long since gone or stopped working....

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?127723-Remote-locking-key&highlight=transponder+key

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?20338-Keys&highlight=transponder+key

Edited by Scooter (see edit history)
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If anyone can shed any light on this please do

 

Ive treid messing with the temp sensors, unplugging the top single pin one stops the dash temp working, unplugging the lower two pin one puts the engine light on

 

Unplugging the iacv when running and up to temp doesnt have any effect. Tried checking the resistance across the terminals and all seems fine

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For pairing this might be some use, from memory the ECU is under the passenger seat but my memory is fading.

 

With the revs cycling between 750 and 1000rpm its not something innocuous like the a/c compressor cutting in and out? You can get rapid cycling on the a/c compressor clutch if the pressure in the system is low, high enough to beat the low pressure cut off but too low to prevent a vacuum on the inlet side which will activate the low pressure cut off.

Edited by rider (see edit history)
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Regarding the key info, thanks i'll give that a try.

 

The ac is still hooked up but the front rad/ condensor and fan for it has been removed. Wouldnt have thought it would be that as its only when the cars upto operating temp that the revs start bouncing

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Removed the remote locking ecu from under the seat. It has a blue connector and an aerial socket. Have removed the cover and there is no reprogramming button on the unit whatsoever, all the guides ive found are for the different style remote

 

Here is what my key looks like

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Removed the remote locking ecu from under the seat. It has a blue connector and an aerial socket. Have removed the cover and there is no reprogramming button on the unit whatsoever, all the guides ive found are for the different style remote

 

Here is what my key looks like

 

image

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