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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

12v supply


eyefi

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they're the fuse ratings not the current drawn, its an alarm. i'm sure the battery and alternator will b fine.

 

im not looking to piggy back off any existing fused circuit, what im looking for is a direct battery connection in the cabin (as the first post states). there's a couple of very heavy gauge white wire into the drivers side fuse panel, this looks like a battery connection to me.

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Originally posted by eyefi

they're the fuse ratings not the current drawn, its an alarm. i'm sure the battery and alternator will b fine.

 

im not looking to piggy back off any existing fused circuit, what im looking for is a direct battery connection in the cabin (as the first post states). there's a couple of very heavy gauge white wire into the drivers side fuse panel, this looks like a battery connection to me.

 

Yet more wires then eyefi? :D

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I see what your'e saying and those wires might be direct feed (just use a voltmeter to test) BUT do you know what the amp rating of those wires are, do you know what the max load is on those wires and do you know if by adding what you want to add will you exceed the rating of those white wires?. This is even more important if they are directly fed from the battery and not fused. You may overload the wires causing the insulation to melt causing a short no fuse equals no break in supply equals fire and no car. Even an alarm circuit should be fused, as you have got fuses on the wires just get some wire suitable and run it direct from the battery using the yellow grommets in the wing, if for example you are running the wire for the 30 amp supply fit a 35 amp fuse close to the battery then if you do get a short the main fuse should blow first (30 amp) but if the short is near the battery you are still protected by the 35 amp from serious trouble. I know it may be a pain but is far better to be safe.

 

Also i know that it isnt current actual drawn but dont forget the fuses shouldnt be that far off what is actually drawn (otherwise there is no point in having fuses) and you have a potential there for 90 amps in total before fuse blow

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I'd run a single piece of 10 or 8 awg cable into the cabin, fused at 40a at the battery and split inside to run the 30's and the 20.

They won't be active all at the same time, so the current draw will never max out.

Take the 5 amp supplies from either the ignition barrels +30 supply or the interior fusebox input cable.

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