alanwheeldon Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I have a 1997 BPU JDM Turbo spec car with the optional extra UK spec 4 pot fronts and standard JDM rears. Not had the car long and I have a lot of brake judder when braking hard. What's the best brake set up that I need. Will just new OEM Toyota disks and pads be good for fast track use or do I need aftermarket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 You have a fine set up there - get OEM discs and some Chris Wilson fast road pads - job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 (edited) I have a 1997 BPU JDM Turbo spec car with the optional extra UK spec 4 pot fronts and standard JDM rears. Not had the car long and I have a lot of brake judder when braking hard. What's the best brake set up that I need. Will just new OEM Toyota disks and pads be good for fast track use or do I need aftermarket? Tbh, Chris Wilson pads aren't going to cut if for fast track work. The best pads I know of that will fit UK brakes are Porterfield Race, but I'd love to hear some other recommendations from members if they have alternatives. If you are really serious about using your car as a track weapon a lot, you'd be better off ditching the UK brakes, and fitting a different brake kit, Brembo, K-Sports etc... You will then have a far better choice of pads available to you, and the pad of choice for track work, Performance Friction Edited October 23, 2017 by Burna (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 You may need to refurbish the pistons on the callipers. Thoroughly check them before fitting new disks and pads. With the pads out carefully press the brake pedal and see if you have any pistons unwilling to move. Some will always be easier than the others so be prepared to place a wedge in for them and see if the others will move out fine. Using large pliers you can push them back, the easier they all move the more confident you can be new disks and pads will resolve your problem (clean up the hub faces nicely for new disk fitment) Disks stay stock, for hard track use pad options aren't massive, Porterfield springs to mind. Stock pads won't be up to pretty much anyone's 'fast' track use and if you really mean fast/hard use (it's relative after all) then I'd research this area the most before deciding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Tbh, Chris Wilson pads aren't going to cut if for fast track work. The best pads I know of that will fit UK brakes are Porterfield Race, but I'd love to hear some other recommendations from members if they have alternatives. If you are really serious about using your car as a track weapon a lot, you'd be better off ditching the UK brakes, and fitting a different brake kit, Brembo, K-Sports etc... You will then have a far better choice of pads available to you, and the pad of choice for track work, Performance Friction Didn't see the race bit. Porterfield are dusty as hell. And Mr Wilson managed to punt a TT J-Spec round Oulton Park on stock pads and stock J-Spec single pot brakes with 16" wheels on quite happily! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Didn't see the race bit. Porterfield are dusty as hell. And Mr Wilson managed to punt a TT J-Spec round Oulton Park on stock pads and stock J-Spec single pot brakes with 16" wheels on quite happily! Dust doesn't matter though does it? As long as they don't overheat, that's the main thing. And I bet CW brake fluid was boiling! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 (edited) You could try using brake fluid with higher boiling temps like Motul 660 You'd need to replace it more often though as it absorbs moisture quicker than Motul 600 Dot 4 or 5.1 Edited October 23, 2017 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 (edited) Didn't see the race bit. Porterfield are dusty as hell. And Mr Wilson managed to punt a TT J-Spec round Oulton Park on stock pads and stock J-Spec single pot brakes with 16" wheels on quite happily! Whose was that, he always used to say stock everything else but decent pads (ie his race pads) and decent fluid would survive a track day. Edited October 23, 2017 by Scooter (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonR24 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I had this problem with my brakes it’s the pistons. Your set up is one of the best you can get in my opinion, just get them reconditioned. Get some Chris Wilson pistons for the calipers and some new discs and pads and you’re sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 you need RBF660 as a min - yes its DOT4 but its the boiling point thats the important part. Don't bother with the CW pads for track, we put some on Christians car for Anglesey and brake feel wasn't great and he wasn't best impressed with them. As said Porterfield or Pagid RS29s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Whose was that, he always used to say stock everything else but decent pads (ie his race pads) and decent fluid would survive a track day. That is correct, stock JSPEC or UK will work ok on a track day with the correct pads and fluid in them. Ive been out in a car with stock jSpecs but the above sorted and it performed really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanwheeldon Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Ok guys thanks for that. I'll go for stock disks and the Porterfield pads as that's what most people have said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Thread revival, I'm sure the OP has sorted out his brakes by now but it might help others.... You said you've got Uk (4-pot) fronts and JSpec rears (1 pot I presume). If that's the case I'd think your braking system is unbalanced. Either use UK spec all round, or JSpec all round, etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Thread revival, I'm sure the OP has sorted out his brakes by now but it might help others.... You said you've got Uk (4-pot) fronts and JSpec rears (1 pot I presume). If that's the case I'd think your braking system is unbalanced. Either use UK spec all round, or JSpec all round, etc Not necessarily true. UK fronts and JSpec rears is quite adequate. The fronts do most of the work anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Front brake judder on late spec cars seems to often be caused by tired lower front wishbone inner bushes. Older BMW's had this issue too. That is something to consider if the discs run true *MEASURED BOLTED TIGHT TO THE HUBS* and the caliper pistons are free. I make it clear that my pads are fast road / mild track day. Anglesey GP circuit is up their with Donington GP as a brake killer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.