Josh Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Hello all, Drive to work today and after about 30 mins of driving the clutch pedal didn't feel right as I went to pull away. As I parked, I couldn't get the clutch up in first but the gear was engaged. The pedal was stuck to the floor so I braked and the car was still in bear so it stalled. I turned it back on and all seems ok. I have checked the fluid level and it's fine. Any ideas what the issue may be? Will I be ok driving back home later? If there's anything I can do to sort it with no tools later, please let me know, otherwise I will have to get towed home or get someone to bring my tools to me. Any help is much appreciated. Thank you, Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 I think I've read in the past that this is one of the cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?323791-Clutch-diagnosis-required&highlight=cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Ah, so I need to clean out and replace all seals in the master cylinder. I will try driving home later and get one ordered from Toyota asap. Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Home safe and sound! The rebuild kit from Toyota is £45, in case anyone needs one. Steve Manley does it for £39 with the discount, but my local dealer can get one in tomorrow. The drive was almost as dodgy as when the ecu resets and you have to keep the accelerator pressed all the time whilst stopped so it doesnt stall. Phew! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Below is a guide (including pictures) on how to remove the master cylinder, strip it and replace the seals: http://mkivsupra-2.titaninternet.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?180213-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Refurb-A-Step-by-Step-Guide Thanks for your help, Scooter; I really appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 No probs just got a reasonable memory for old issues (it's normally Chris Wilsons actual knowledge!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Jay just had to replace his master cylinder for same issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 No probs just got a reasonable memory for old issues (it's normally Chris Wilsons actual knowledge!) That dude is extremely helpful. Thank you! Jay just had to replace his master cylinder for same issue. No way! At least it shouldn't need doing again for the next 23 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitbox Junkie Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Mine did this but was to do with my clutch it self. and engine crank walk Glad yours is a simple fix keep us updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guigsy Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 just had this on mine. master cylinder fixed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boyne Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Had it happen on other manual car slave cylinder collapsed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 Problem solved! When I moved the car from the drive to the road yesterday the clutch pedal stuck to the floor every time I pushed it. I put the refurbished master cylinder back on yesterday then bled the system with help this morning. I've just been for a ten minute drive, stopping every couple of minutes to try reverse and first and I am happy to say she's driving perfectly Before this issue, I hadn't realised that the slave cylinder would be on the side of the gearbox (as I've never done any work on a clutch before), so it was an unwelcome surprise that I had to get under the car to bleed it. Thanks for the help, all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 My car has been sat for a couple of months due to the crap weather, I jumped in it yesterday and the clutch is sticking to the floor. It only does it when I engage a gear and move, if I move in and out of gear stationary it doesn’t do it. I checked the fluid and it’s half way between min and max, will the master cylinder need sorting or could it be the low fluid coupled with not being used for a few months ? My gut tells me a refurb is on the cards .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Could be something as simple as trapped air in slave cylinder I'd drain both cylinders slave and master ie brake and clutch fluid and replace with new fluid. Imo in manual cars it's a serviceable item always overlooked. Once a year or every 15/20k I always do it on my manual cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Could be something as simple as trapped air in slave cylinder I'd drain both cylinders slave and master ie brake and clutch fluid and replace with new fluid. Imo in manual cars it's a serviceable item always overlooked. Once a year or every 15/20k I always do it on my manual cars. I am going to have a bash at replacing the fluid to see if there is any air in the system. Anyone have a dummies guide to doing this preferably with pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I am going to have a bash at replacing the fluid to see if there is any air in the system. Anyone have a dummies guide to doing this preferably with pictures It's really a 2 man job really one pumps the pedals other drains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 It's really a 2 man job really one pumps the pedals other drains. Where do you drain from, what pump do people recommend ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blythmrk Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I have never done one but I have an ezee bleed that works well when doing brakes and it’s the same principle. I presume the bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder which is connected to the box so underneath the car. Give me a shout if you need a hand or to borrow the tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I have never done one but I have an ezee bleed that works well when doing brakes and it’s the same principle. I presume the bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder which is connected to the box so underneath the car. Give me a shout if you need a hand or to borrow the tools�� Thanks, might take you up on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Bazz Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 You can do it alone but it uses a bit more fluid in the process and you can't see what's going on beneath the car obviously. The bleed nipple on the cilinder is reachable from the top but it's definitely easier from below. I always use Chrisfix technique when working alone: I guess you will need to refurb the slave cilinder though, mine lasted 2 more days after some bleeding and then completely went out. It's quite an easy job if you follow the Toyota manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 You can fit an adapter in the bleed nipple hole and fit a -3 braided hose to a remote nipple, in the car if you like. Can't have anyone rolling about on the floor now, can we? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 You can fit an adapter in the bleed nipple hole and fit a -3 braided hose to a remote nipple, in the car if you like. Can't have anyone rolling about on the floor now, can we? Is the bleed nipple accessible with the under tray in place ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Couple more questions, how much fluid should I have and what diameter pipe do I need for the bleed nipple. I see aquarium tubing mentioned a lot, if I have two people doing it I take I don’t need an eezibleeder ? Just a container to submerge the end of the tube with some brake fluid ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Couple more questions, how much fluid should I have and what diameter pipe do I need for the bleed nipple. I see aquarium tubing mentioned a lot, if I have two people doing it I take I don’t need an eezibleeder ? Just a container to submerge the end of the tube with some brake fluid ? Honestly best go to your local back street mechanic get car up on ramp let him bleed it and you pump pedal 1liter fluid will do you for both master and slave cylinder. 30 mins work,The bleed nipple on slave is on passenger floor sort area under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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