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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Installing oil catch tank


Dzowani

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I recently purchase a catch tank from ebay with a air filter attached.

 

I know you fit one of the hose's to the right side of the Valve cover.

Where should i attach the other one?

I seen people fit the hoses on both sides of the valve cover? Or should i attach it to the intake?

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Personally i don't like an engine to breath its own oil fumes so i block the hose to the PCV valve then make damned sure the cam covers are well vented (both) to the oil catch tank, which then vents itself to atmosphere. Some claim the PCV system gives some negative crankcase pressure (partial vacuum), to the betterment of ring sealing. the ONLY times I have seen this achieved is on race engines with whopping scavenge pumps and de-aerators that can pull a vacuum. A blown engine, be it super or turbo charged, needs this most when under boost, and of course at such a time the PCV valve is closed, otherwise the crankcase and rest of the engine internally, would be at full boost pressure. On RB26 DETT engines I drain the catch tank back to the sump with a low, very low, spring pressure flap valve, as they are notorious for filling catch tanks with blow by oil as drainage of the cam boxes is iffy, and oil mist is blown out to some tune. This is not the case with a healthy 2JZ, (or 1JZ) that has exemplary head to sump oil drainage. In fact, with RB26's I make a drain from off the back of the head, from a core plug hole that is at the bottom of the upper casting, to drain more oil direct to the sump via a -12 aeroquip hose and a sump fitting.

 

http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26_Race_Engine3/rb26.html

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Because oil fumes effectively dilute the fuel octane and contaminate the engine oil. (The engine thinks it smells bad too, IYSWIM). If you just want a sanitary installation just leave the thing as stock, if you want to keep effective fuel octane as high as possible and engine oil contamination as low as possible, do it as I said earlier. Car makers would love to vent to atmo, but there's no way they would pass emission testing (unless they are VAG perhaps?).

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Because oil fumes effectively dilute the fuel octane and contaminate the engine oil. (The engine thinks it smells bad too, IYSWIM). If you just want a sanitary installation just leave the thing as stock, if you want to keep effective fuel octane as high as possible and engine oil contamination as low as possible, do it as I said earlier. Car makers would love to vent to atmo, but there's no way they would pass emission testing (unless they are VAG perhaps?).

 

Thanks for the explanation Chris, leaving the ventilation stock is a little out out of the question as I'm single turbo and after market inlet.

 

Its all mapped to that set up, i wonder if that would eliminate what the engine thinks?

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