Scooter Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 I'm looking for advice from anyone who has cleaned the underbody in preparation for underseal type treatments or simply to get everything clean. I have armed myself with a selection of nylon (I'm scared of using wire brushes - should I be?) brushes, APC, degreasers and a brush that attaches to a hose for rinsing (Got safety glasses gloves etc) My plan is to concentrate on the rear first, remove the fuel tank cover (done this before) and the plastic exhaust cover and probably the exhaust itself, maybe even the diff. Remove the exhaust heat shield pieces as I want to experiment on these with POR15 paint (if ok will probably POR the diff too). My plan is to have a good clean and inspect, I know the car isn't bad for corrosion but I'm looking to tidy and treat if needed before the Dinitrol/underseal application in the interest of long haul protection. Depending on the POR15 results on the heat shields I may do the sill seams and possibly some other areas, this is where I'm not sure how to play it as such, from what I've read POR15 isn't easy (understatement!) to remove so I'm erring on the side of caution in it's application, and concentrating on using the dinitrol stuff mainly. Any advice appreciated, I'll not be rushing it but equally am up for time saving measures if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Lee at SRD uses a guy called Chris, who's company is called CC Automotive. We've just had a full underseal and rust treatment done on the supra, also both sills straightened. He's done a great job and keeps you updated with pics and information. Total cost was £400, although price varies on what you have done. But fully recommended him if you didn't want to undertake the work yourself - - - Updated - - - Lee at SRD uses a guy called Chris, who's company is called CC Automotive. We've just had a full underseal and rust treatment done on the supra, also both sills straightened. He's done a great job and keeps you updated with pics and information. Total cost was £400, although price varies on what you have done. But fully recommended him if you didn't want to undertake the work yourself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 I'll probably regret not doing that, but I was thinking of DIY'ing just from the perspective of no one will take as much care.......but I may make more mistakes! Also I can inspect everything and may perhaps have to tackle some jobs along the way that are better done prior to any underseal application? I'm pretty sure my imports have just the factory applied underseal, one (the one I'm going to start this work on) I think has some extra sprayed on, possibly by JMimports, as the brake lines have some black coating over the grey plastic/paint, but it's not extensive as body/chassis is free from it. Always good to know about companies like this though so thanks in may come in handy if I give up half way through!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Just been googling Chris and lots of glowing reports from those with motors really susceptible to rust! http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467-270.html I may well stop at doing a really good clean up and get the guy to do the messy stuff as he'll have all the tools to get into the nooks and crannies to ensure a proper job of applying protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy147 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Honestly POR15 stuff is fantastic stuff you will not go far wrong with it. Don't worry about using a wire brush, it will just allow you to get rid of any of the flaking rust. I would do that stage first before then going over with degreaser (I would use the POR15 marine degreaser). This then allows a good clean surface for painting/underseal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Just been googling Chris and lots of glowing reports from those with motors really susceptible to rust! http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467-270.html I may well stop at doing a really good clean up and get the guy to do the messy stuff as he'll have all the tools to get into the nooks and crannies to ensure a proper job of applying protection. Yeah he works from home with a ramp, he doesn't advertise his work it's all from word of mouth and he tries to keep work down to a minimum. Roughly 1-2 cars per week. Really can't fault his work! He tells you all the products he uses etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Honestly POR15 stuff is fantastic stuff you will not go far wrong with it. Don't worry about using a wire brush, it will just allow you to get rid of any of the flaking rust. I would do that stage first before then going over with degreaser (I would use the POR15 marine degreaser). This then allows a good clean surface for painting/underseal Cheers, as you know it's your pics that are inspiring me! I have the POR metal prep just not their specific degreaser as I have other degreasers and am hoping this is ok, hence the exhaust shield testing (I may test on a few suspension arms I have in the spares bin too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy147 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Cheers, as you know it's your pics that are inspiring me! I have the POR metal prep just not their specific degreaser as I have other degreasers and am hoping this is ok, hence the exhaust shield testing (I may test on a few suspension arms I have in the spares bin too) It's good to know I've been able to inspire someone, there's a first for everything lol! It's definately worth it, gives you peace of mind and looks good when you look underneath! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 I did mine earlier this year using POR15, its seriously good I wire brushed, degreased, metal prepped then POR15, took me about a day in total so not too bad. Still looks like new underneath 6months on. Word of caution though, don't get it on your skin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Thanks read about that but it seems everyone still does get a bit here and there on them! Did you do everything? floor pan, sills, subframe etc I've got a 6 pack of small cans as I read it doesn't always keep well once opened got x2 silver x2 semi matt black and x2 clear, thinking i'll do the subframe and arms in black and the body in silver or clear (car is silver). Did you put on any finish the POR15 is meant to cloud up when exposed to UV (I know it won't get much underneath!) how is yours and what colour didi you put on? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 I spent countless hours (must if been 50+) cleaning the entire rear and front arches of mine right back using dremel, wire wool drill pads, APC cleaner, engine degreaser etc. I wish I had never started. The best outcome was on the exhaust heatshields and fuel tank where I stripped right back to bare metal, used Zinc182 to prepare and prime metal and then coated in Halfords Carbon 800degree Manifold paint and it looks great and has lasted very well so far. I also highly recommend ACF-50 for keeping everything rust free after treating. However, I'll be damned if I can be bothered to do anymore on axle stands etc so I'm booked into JR Classics in Doncaster on 22nd September for the full works clean, strip and underseal (cost £610) and then when back going to have all my rear suspension fitted (New and POR15 coated) by Littlenum. If you're doing this on axle stands be prepared to put some serious hours in mate to do it properly. Definitely use POR15 though, it's a cracking product. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Well i'm keen (as probably you were when you started!) and love to diy (hate to spend out on labour! ) so I think i'll take my time and try and do it in stages and to hell with how long it takes. I can't that I can do any harm, I just think (as most seem to back up) it'll turn into one thing after the other, i'm not desperately anal on appearance but won't just slap things on for the sake of it and to hurry it. I will try and document things and take pics, got a bunch of brushes from amazon coming so I think this weekend I might try and remove the bulky things to allow me to make my initial assessment and test a few of the products. I've got some dinitrol that's been delayed (it's the more fluid cavity wax stuff) which is annoying, might cancel and reorder elsewhere, but also not sure how necessary it is (it's Dinitrol 3125) are there many cavities that need protection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 POR15 is great, only downside to it is that it will not stick very well to fresh metal. I've had it peel off cleanly off new zinc plated steel. Dries quite solid as it cures with moisture. stays on skin for atleast a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 POR15 is great, only downside to it is that it will not stick very well to fresh metal. I've had it peel off cleanly off new zinc plated steel. Dries quite solid as it cures with moisture. stays on skin for atleast a week. Just a question did you use their specific "metal prep" prior to applying the POR paint/coating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Scott, I'd go for the chap that Jazz and SRD use, as per this thread. £400 approx for this job is peanuts compared to the missery this might be for you on your own on a drive, wedged under a car a few feet of the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Just a question did you use their specific "metal prep" prior to applying the POR paint/coating? Yes, used the metal ready (blue solution) and the other degreasant. Probably the metal prep. - - - Updated - - - Yes, used the metal ready (blue solution) and the other degreasant. Probably the metal prep. Although they were unopened in storage for like 8 years. Not sure if they had a shelf life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 I'll certainly bare this in mind! I've done similar nightmare jobs (engine mounts with engine in situ) that haven't put me off yet. My current thinking is the guy won't have removed the exhaust/diff etc etc and whilst I doubt it will make any difference as he's no doubt got lances for application and pressure washers for initial cleaning etc etc to work round them, I'm keen to at least have a good look around underneath in general. I also need to do all the rubber brake hoses and might take off the brake/fuel lines plastic cover that runs the length of the car and make an extra effort to protect the hard lines. It'll be done over the course of weeks I think rather than days as my time will be limited, I think i'll remove things and then assess if I really want to tackle it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Yes, used the metal ready (blue solution) and the other degreasant. Probably the metal prep. Although they were unopened in storage for like 8 years. Not sure if they had a shelf life. Ok will see how the test pieces go, I won't have anything fresh as such only if I wire brush off some rust and create a semi fresh surface, maybe it didn't like the zinc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Unless you remove a few parts i dont see how you can do this properly to be honest and definitely not a job to do on axle stands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 I'll be interested to hear from anyone that's had POR15 on for more than a couple of years. I was disappointed with it on my MG ZR as rust started to come back through, and yes I did follow the instructions to the letter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 This is all good info/feedback. I'm thinking of using any POR sparingly and/or apply to suspension arms heat shields etc and keep it away from the main body/chassis initially. The good thing is that we don't have rust prone cars and so maybe a thorough clean and using the Dinitrol products is what I should concentrate on. From memory my silver car is a 2006 Import and so it's not been over here 'that' long and is I think is in good shape. I'll grab some pre and post clean pics initially to show the good, bad and ugly (hopefully none of this!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Unless you remove a few parts i dont see how you can do this properly to be honest and definitely not a job to do on axle stands Exactly, world of difference between a full strip down and treat, and a clean up and underseal slapped on, but you obviously pay for what you get. I've seen the work Sheefa has put in on his, and yeah I can see why he wouldn't want to tackle that again, but it is a proper job though - - - Updated - - - I'll be interested to hear from anyone that's had POR15 on for more than a couple of years. I was disappointed with it on my MG ZR as rust started to come back through, and yes I did follow the instructions to the letter. I remember that, very frustrating after the work you'd put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 The thing is if there is no real rust present then a full strip down etc is overkill and treatment now may stave off the need for it, perhaps all together in the medium term (everything succumbs eventually!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzowani Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 Could somebody pass me chrises number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Ok some pics of the car (current) warts and all. Pretty happy with it tbh, some light surface rust to investigate. Some protection 'stuff' already apparent not sure if factory only or addition later. I got delayed today by droplinks on the girlfriends Sharan!! so only managed to get it in the air and asses/take these pics. Tomorrow the plan is to remove the exhaust, tank guard and heat shields etc. I'll take more pics then, then I'll be attempting the dirty clean up job, but great weather for having it dry out after. I'd not paid that much attention underneath before, but there are numerous rubber bungs so looks like I can spray into these cavities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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