sean17650199 Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Anyone bought or know how much toyota charge for the locking tool? Whifbitz is £30 postage to highlands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wishieftrottle Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Hey guys, I used method with old belt from youtube video tutorial + 1,5m long steel bar =3 minute work :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 I like that and I double checked and that's the standard size aux belt (sorry if he says that in the video, I watched without sound), only thing I'd say (and I can't work this out 100%) is whether on those really tight ones this method will put excessive load on the water pump/power steering pump pulleys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wishieftrottle Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Yes, standard size aux belt - I used just the one which I took off and of course then I used brand new one from Dayco :-) I do not think that the load on pulleys is so extreme. Anyway, you don´t do this so often to create some bearing clearance on pulleys. I really didn´t want to use trick with starter and I also didn´t have any air tool at home, so this method was perfect for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Hey guys, I used method with old belt from youtube video tutorial + 1,5m long steel bar =3 minute work :-) thats bloody brilliant ,will try that when i do mine . mods this should be a sticky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Awesome method. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 I get the odd one where someone has Loctited the bolt in. Only fix is a BIG rosebud tip on the oxy / acetylene and get the bolt head near red hot AS FAST AS POSSIBLE.... forget blow lamps... Once hot get a socket on it and it will undo. The damper will be scrap, or a time bomb and should be renewed. The bolt should be renewed as well. if you get it hot FAST the heat won't have time to knacker the cam belt or the front oil pump seal. Hence you need a big tip and oxy / acetylene. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Just wanted to post up some pics of my tool that a friend of a friend made up for us. They milled the cylinder piece to fit in the pulley recess with holes for the bolts to go through (this stops any bolt bending). The massive stroke of luck with this was that whilst the main hole was obviously made to have a diameter large enough for a 22mm impact socket to go through, by pure luck it isn't large enough to allow the crank bolt to come back through, so once cracked as you undo it the bolts large skirt meets the inside of the tool and the whole pulley is pulled off as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisM Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 Where abouts in the Highlands are you Sean? I plan doing the same job in a couple of months so could hire any tools you end up buying... or if you are close enough I would love a practice try on yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffsplace Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Me 3, I am in Aberdeen, and have a new belt ready to go on. Will be the first time I have ever this too. Happy to make a meet up to assist us all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Just in case you haven't seen this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?65774-How-To-Change-the-cambelt-(93-J-Spec-TT-Auto)&highlight=cambelt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean17650199 Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 Im in inverness, ive been away so not had the chance to do this yet but im going to get the lock tool and will be happy to lend it to people for a shot once im done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bladerider Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 Great vid !!!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffsplace Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Im in inverness, ive been away so not had the chance to do this yet but im going to get the lock tool and will be happy to lend it to people for a shot once im done with it. /QUOTE] Sean, I did mine with the starter motor option, which is great for undoing it, however I am convinced I am nowhere near the required torque for doing it back up, though its tight with 18" breaker bar. I used an axle stand and had the breaker bar horizontal on the top, disconnect the coil so it would not start, and a quick turn of the key and it was done. Overall the job was a brezeze, made a quick flywheel puller based on the other pics around, based on a steel bar and 2 M8 bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 One of these makes life much easier http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota-2jz-1jz-crank-pulley-lockup-tool.html?___SID=U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny mac Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 hey lads, I'm also in Aberdeen, I've always had bother getting these bolts off, my latest resort was to use an inch drive impact gun from my work with a step down to 1/2 drive 22mm impact socket, that fairly got it off but it required the engine to be out the car or the cooling and aircon radiators to be removed as the gun is absolutely massive, it's like a size 12 shoe I'm currently in the same situ, I had my engine on a pallet at my work and forgot to slacken the crank bolt before taking it home after it was delivered here, I've tried my snap on impact 1/2 inch gun (which I bought for jobs like this ) and it doesn't budge my bolt, I'm now going to take home my colleagues Makita impact 1/2 inch gun as I think it's got a stronger motor i'll report back with how I get on and maybe add some pics as it could be as simple as a battery gun can do it hopefully! the other thing I have going for me is the sump is off my engine just now so I could get 3 solid bits of wood against the crankshaft between the block and use that to lock the crank and have a big breaker bar against the bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 (edited) I tried various 1/2 air impact tools including a beasty CP one and they didn't touch it. In the end I used the starter method. Going to order one of these Whiffbitz 2jz pulley tool for the next time I need to use it, for that price its a no brainer! Edited September 11, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffsplace Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 hey lads, I'm also in Aberdeen, I've always had bother getting these bolts off, my latest resort was to use an inch drive impact gun from my work with a step down to 1/2 drive 22mm impact socket, that fairly got it off but it required the engine to be out the car or the cooling and aircon radiators to be removed as the gun is absolutely massive, it's like a size 12 shoe I'm currently in the same situ, I had my engine on a pallet at my work and forgot to slacken the crank bolt before taking it home after it was delivered here, I've tried my snap on impact 1/2 inch gun (which I bought for jobs like this ) and it doesn't budge my bolt, I'm now going to take home my colleagues Makita impact 1/2 inch gun as I think it's got a stronger motor i'll report back with how I get on and maybe add some pics as it could be as simple as a battery gun can do it hopefully! the other thing I have going for me is the sump is off my engine just now so I could get 3 solid bits of wood against the crankshaft between the block and use that to lock the crank and have a big breaker bar against the bolt Jonny, did you see the post using the pulley belt looking method on youtube, did not like the look of it myself but may get you sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 the other thing I have going for me is the sump is off my engine just now so I could get 3 solid bits of wood against the crankshaft between the block and use that to lock the crank and have a big breaker bar against the bolt I've done this before but you need to some how brace the whole engine or stand else you just tip/rotate the whole engine before the nut will give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny mac Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I got it off in the end luckily I had been changing from front to rear sumps as my gte engine is from an aristo while the sump was off and the engine was upside down on the stand I took my opportunity to put a big block of wood along the bottom of the engine block to sump mating face, I used a 30" pry bar against it going through a hole on the starter ring gear and the other side locked aginst my engine stand then I used my power bar with 22mm socket and a big bit of pipe slipped over the end to crack the nut that faily locked the crankshaft solid enough I had to throw the ring gear in the bin now due to the slight bending of the plate but it worked out good for me in the end as I'm going to use a manual box anyway so don't need the starter ring gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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