supraGZaerotop Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 hi my brace is branded a RSR part. although ive noticed these tend to be labelled with different company logos, so think they are a general part made in japan that are used be different company'sHi, I noticed an image (using Tap a Talk) of your engine bay that your strut brace was identical to mine. Are you able to name the brand please? My 98 RZ-S was imported from Japan and that small detail has eluded me. My apologies for interrupting your thread. Thankyou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Just another update. I have played with the adjustable stop on the valve that diverts the 1st/2nd turbo exhaust flow (see pics in post 46). Basically I adjusted the screw to open up the internal flap a bit so it's never fully closed and a small amount of flow is allowed to go through the second turbo (kinda of like a mini/half TTC) Drove it to work today and no issues but definitely slightly laggy (as you would expect) low down. I'm going to try and adjust it back to get it only a tiny bit open. My thinking is all the 20 years of carbon build up might make it 'sticky' in it's original position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 (edited) Adjusted back the other night, I could see from the threads from where it had been for over twenty years and how much I'd opened it up in the post above. I took it back to just a smidge different from before to basically try and ensure it's moved a bit away from any internal lip/carbon buildup/chance of stiction, but not have the actual flap at all (or only a very tiny bit) open. Not noticed any instances of high revs and no second turbo moments since either adjustments and it's boosting nicely at low rpm. For reference it's a 10mm spanner to crack off the retaining nut, and then I used a 7/32ths imperial socket to move the threaded stud in/out (5.5mm socket but I didn't have one). Edited November 15, 2017 by Scooter (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 I have an issue currently where the second turbo still doesn't come on when I drop down a gear and I have to come off the accelerator and back on and this will 90% of the time get it to boost, anyone experienced anything similar ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Yes most of us on this thread, at times. High revs with no 'pull' ie suck in first turbo only, which is bad for it btw. If you fancy trying to adjust the exhaust valve as I described above then please do that first just to see if it has any effect I'd appreciate it (I've done so many little things I'm not certain what if any (it seems alright of late) has fixed it). You can access it without removing anything, you just need to douse it in penetrating fluid 20 mins before you attack it! You can try the other things in this thread, from memory I would try the following first as it involves little tools/dismantling. When the car is cold a day or so after last using it, pull the two small hoses from the top rear vsv (these hoses have no clamp/clips on them just held on be tension) you should get a hiss of air from the pressure tank. Check the two u bend pipes that stick out from the vsv again at the back but nearer the suspension turret and pointing at it. (basically check all pipes and their joins to the solid pipework vsv's and replace or improve the join integrity (as a temporary testing measure) Move the exhaust valve rod by hand. Then you are looking at vsv testing, I 'think' these are more likely the culprit the less intermittent the issue is. If it's doing it all the time and you need to use it a lot, I'd be tempted to put it in TTC mode to ease the pressure on the 1st Turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraGZaerotop Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 (edited) Got to be honest tho . My car is perfect now turbo run smooth both come online great. I've since pulled the rear hose off pipework just to see, no reason really, my car still does not hiss. My car only hissed when I put it in ttc plumbing the hose straight to pipework bk when I was trobleshooting it. But my car runs like new now. So gods know Edited December 9, 2017 by supraGZaerotop (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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