Supra_cooper Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Hey can someone help me please. I know this has probably been covered time and time again but I can't seem to find it. What's the best thing to do. Should I spend the time and money turbocharging my ge engine as I'm planning on going for a single turbo anyway. or should I swap to a gte engine and tune that. I'm looking at producing about 700-750 hp and I am looking for the best and most reliable way of doing it. Thank you in advance Ps if this has been covered time and time again I'm sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarleyFDMD Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 The things i would be weighing up would be this: A healthy stock gte engine will cope with 750bhp... however, its going to cost you £3500 for the engine and its probably going to have in excess of 75k miles on it and 750bhp is about the limit on a stock block. Compare that with spending £3500 on your Ge block, you'd have a freshly decked and honed block with brand new rings and bearing sporting new forged rods and pistons and possibly even billet main caps. Head wise there are less options regarding manifolds for the Ge but there are certainly options out there. You'd probably want to ditch the dizzy from the ge too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra_cooper Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) Thanks for that it's exactly what I was thinking. A gte is so expensive and I will not know what condition it will be in when I get it. Also what I'm thinking is that if anything was to go wrong with my engine I can pick up another ge engine cheap and have all the parts to go in it. Is there any reliability issues with a ge engine or is it still just a tough 2jz . One more thing is with a ge engine would it be worth fitting oil squirters . Edited June 28, 2017 by Supra_cooper (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarleyFDMD Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 The bare blocks are pretty much identical to the untrained eye. They share the same crank and rods (non vvti) The gte pistons will cope with 750 but the ge pistons wont, therefore at the absolute minimum your going to have to install gte pistons into the ge block along with the gte headgasket. Ideally though at that power level you should start thinking about forged rods and pistons. Anymore than 750 and i think you start treading on egg shells. If you just do the gte pistons and headgasket then maybe the oil squirters wouldnt be a bad idea (although i dont know 100% that they are essential they are obviously proven at that power level with an otherwise 'stock' block) If you go for forged internals the oil squirters become unnecessary and some big power guys actually block them off to aid oil pressure (or so ive heard) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra_cooper Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 So a ge with a built bottom end and a gte head gasket is the way to go thanks for your help. All IV gotta do is make sure 750 is definitely what I wanna achieve as I haven't driven a 750 supra. I need to see what there like. I'd like 750ish as long as I don't have to wait for the revs to get all the way up to 6000rpm before anything happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 You seem to be forgetting that there is a lot more to a GTE Supra than just the engine. What can be even more expensive is upgrading the NA drive train to handle 750bhp. If you have an auto NA then you will need either a built TT auto, 3.7 diff and driveshaft or a Getrag, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, pedals, driveshaft, 3.266 diff, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarleyFDMD Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 You seem to be forgetting that there is a lot more to a GTE Supra than just the engine. What can be even more expensive is upgrading the NA drive train to handle 750bhp. If you have an auto NA then you will need either a built TT auto, 3.7 diff and driveshaft or a Getrag, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, pedals, driveshaft, 3.266 diff, etc. Yes transmission was something i was going to mention next. Unless he is fortunate to own a SZ-R then he will have to consider what he wants to do regarding that. From the way i read the post it was my understanding that he was either looking to boost his ge or do an engine swap for a gte and then single that.. as opposed to selling up completely and buying a TT car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Built autobox would be by far the cheapest option, followed by an R154 (but from what I gather these aren't up to much more than 600hp long term). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 If you decide to go built auto, I have a titan box here, with circa 4k miles on it from new. I'd take £1k for it, as I could do with the space. I paid nearly double that a year ago for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 You have to ask first off, why 750 hp? As you said you haven't driven a 750hp Supra. Any decent quality NA/T build will be 3k. Why not spend 3K on a complete GTE engine, BPU + it to 400ish then build up from there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra_cooper Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 I want about 750ish as I want it to be as powerful and useful as possible. As IV already said it's gonna be about 4k on a TT engine and I'm not gonna know what condition that's gonna be in so if its not already knackered when I get a TT iv then gotta spend another 3k - 4k on it to get it where I want. Where as if I use the engine that IV got and build the bottom end and do the necessary mods I'll be in the same boat but have some spare cash also if anything was to happen I could just get another ge engine and swap the part over instead of having to spend another 3-4k on an engine again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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