rider Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 I decided on full new arms and bushes because the ones on my car were getting bad and couldn't adjust them all anymore so was making it a very harsh ride. Plus I knew that the arms are good for 20 odd years so thought why not while I had the cash. I fully expect I'll end up buying new pretty much everything before I'm done. I'm just in denial at the moment thinking recycled parts will do, so I just need to get myself mentally prepared first ready to put several calls into Mr Toyota. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 People spending serious dosh on subframe recons might consider putting an active R33 GTR V Spec diff in under ECU control, has anyone done this yet? That sounds complicated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Probably requires something like a syvecs, presumably it's not too complicated ie you can reduce the lsd effect at very low speeds, perhaps reduce it when off throttle? ie into corners? I'm not 100% up on my diffs and all their reactions under various conditions. Doubt it's an option for us stock ecu'ers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 Tackled my new fuel guard today that came via Toyota Oxford shipped via ANC courier. The straps came in a bag that got destroyed by ANC and the tank guard got a bit of a beating to. ANC are quite probably the worst courier, a cheap franchise outfit where damage is always transferable to the collecting franchise or the distribution centre. The guard had lots of back to metal scrapes and scuffs as illustrated by the primer plasters applied. Repainting the guard really highlighted the three dents nicely. One may need to be bashed out as it is quite pronounced but I won't know if it'll affect fitting until I tackle the fitting. I don't fully appreciate the need upon receiving brand new Toyota parts to then spending 2 hours and £15 on paint sorting them and still have a damaged part at the end of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I'd have sent that back or claimed. I wouldn't tolerate that on a new item. You'll struggle to get those dents out and retain a half decent finish. I travelled to Oxford to collect my tank guard for fear of such damage, but in any event you should expect better from a courier company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 Wow that's really bad. Appalling service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 I'm going to have my main run fuel and brake lines collected by a relative from Oxford as I know ANC would rearrange the shape and probably crush them to. Suggested to SM in the past that he looks elsewhere for a courier but he seems pretty set on ANC. He hasn't responded to the email I sent him with the same pictures attached of the tank guard. If it wasn't something that sat under the car largely unseen I would have rejected it with the damage but at least I know with the time I spent on it and the extra two coats of paint its better than new now, albeit with a dent or two or three. I was pleased with the end paint finish. The concern for this kind of thing is more where a part goes directly to a garage for fitting as part of say an accident repair. I don't think they would spend 2 hours putting right the paint damage before fitting it. Without the remedial work this guard would be rusting away quite nicely in lots of places in just a few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 I'd be on the phone to Steve, i had brake lines off him and the courier bent them in half to fit in their little van He replaced the lines and told me to keep the other lines or bin them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 (edited) Before anyone says you should have, just remember hindsight is a wonderful view not bestowed upon many. Back onto the sub frame today to tackle the threads as molten zinc pools in threads very well. There are several means to prevent or cure zinc build up in threads that I researched this weekend, obviously for me prevention is all academic as I'm post dip. But for others its definitely something to consider. Going with prevention, thread protection, there are proprietary stop galv paint products which you can buy and put over the parts or areas that you wish not to be galvanized. That is probably going to pool again in threads which might be just as bad as a zinc coat once its been oven cured and I doubt it would survive a paint strip process anyway? Or people suggest high temperature silicone sealant or high temperature greases as an option. Though, if the part is going to be oven baked (rather than chemical stripped) to remove paint then any product needs to be capable of comfortably withstanding 600C for a reasonable period. I'm also not sure if galvanizers would appreciate grease in their acid baths. Some recommend leaving a bolt or stud in situ and then blow torching it out later. I left a few bolts in and if anything they were harder to sort out than the remedy for open threads outlined later. Prevention was something to late for my sub frame with restorative cure now the only option. Some of the bolt holes were even completely closed with pooled zinc (I had to refer back to pre dip pictures to identify some bolt holes). On others the zinc had almost smoothed out the thread. Some early morning research came up with an interesting fact, zinc melts at a 200C lower temperature than the zinc/ferrous alloy formed in the galvanised layer. So off to see my mate today who is the one going to do the fitting with me and use his torch to melt out the zinc from the threads. I was amazed how much zinc came out of the threads and pleased how successful the torching method was. The galvanised layer remained intact, though the paint burnt away. So it was on my painting pallet again for some fresh prime and impact resistant paint. I should have tackled the zinc in threads before painting and were I ever to galvanise another Supra sub frame that is indeed what I would do. Melting off the excess zinc is a far neater method to drilling and tapping as well as much quicker to. Edited July 16, 2017 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Blowing the budget on this. I've bought into all new arms for the sub frame. Going to retain and clean up the hubs but fit new bearings and handbrake shoes. Taking into account the cost of the frame, the tratment and painting of the frame, all new bushes, new fuel and brake lines and fuel hoses, new fuel pump and the new suspension parts its all pushing to £5k before any labour taken into account. So not really a project to be contemplated unless you have deep stuffed pockets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 (edited) PARTS UPDATE Finally had the parts picked up, the arms, bushes and fuel + brake lines. Paid the son in law £100 to go pick them up from Toyota in Oxford in his people carrier as I didn't want to risk the lines to a courier. They still didn't arrive in the best of shapes, the thin brake lines have lots of new curves over the schematic I ordered from, one has 20 curves which I recon is about 10 to many. Fortunately no crushes on the brake lines so I'm hoping they will straighten out when clipped into place. the main fuel line which is made of good gauge metal didn't fare as well with a flat crush on one bend. Its almost impossible to bend by hand so it must have had a major force applied to bend and crush. SM at Toyota Oxford sighed and promised to replace it, this time it'll need to risk a courier journey. SM was unable to locate a source for the RH rear frame and roll bar mounting bush (52205-14020) and the front diff mounts (41654-30010) but fortunately TCB came good with those so I did manage to cobble a full set of arms and bushing for the rear frame from Amayama, Toyota Oxford and TCB. though TCB do deserve particular credit as I pushed onto them the parts the other two couldn't supply. I'm sure there will be more parts I find I need when the original frame comes off and I'll start with TCB first. Tackled the main frame front bushes today with a bit of trepidation if I'm honest. Figured start off with the likely hardest first. I felt a bit guilty afterwards because they went in with commensurate ease. I greased the cups on either side of the frame that holds the bushing and used the side of a 15lb sledgehammer dropped onto the bush from about 30cm. They bounced out a few times until they seated but once seated it only took 5 or 6 gravity drops on the sledgehammer to drive them fully home. I was left feeling smug so figured I'd quit while ahead meaning I'll probably tackle the two rear diff bushes at the weekend if I find time. So far, so good. Edited September 1, 2017 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 Good work it'll be satisfying once done (that's what I keep telling myself on my mini refurb). It's funny how we can barely look under the car for years and then once we decided to have a good look/clean up it becomes a major project! Can I ask have you dropped the fuel tank at all in the work you've done? presume you are/will for the fuel line replacing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 I'm thinking of buying this for the diff bush replacement. https://www.powerhouseracing.com/product/5614/phr-rear-differential-bushing-removalinstallation-tool Good to know the two front bushes were quite easy. I'll have a go on mine over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 I also fell foul of that rear bush part number. It was superseded by 52205-14040, as you now know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blythmrk Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 Mines all back together now! F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 Mines all back together now! [ATTACH=CONFIG]222207[/ATTACH] F[ATTACH=CONFIG]222208[/ATTACH] That looks very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 I'm thinking of buying this for the diff bush replacement. https://www.powerhouseracing.com/product/5614/phr-rear-differential-bushing-removalinstallation-tool I'm planning on standing the frame on its end after I fitted the cross braces this afternoon to aid frame rigidity and will be trying the sledge hammer drop technique again on the rear diff bushes. The front frame bushes when mated up looked to be quite a bit too large for the cups so I'm hoping the rear diff bushes will slip into place as easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 Mines all back together now! [ATTACH=CONFIG]222207[/ATTACH] F[ATTACH=CONFIG]222208[/ATTACH] If you have a few days free, do come around and show me how its done. I'm not going to change hubs or drive shafts or paint up the diff so its not going to be looking quite as black clean as yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blythmrk Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 If you have a few days free, do come around and show me how its done. I'm not going to change hubs or drive shafts or paint up the diff so its not going to be looking quite as black clean as yours. Whilst you are at it you might as well do everything! Can you not have the diff bushes pressed out at a garage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 Tackled the rear bushes this morning. Didn't go to plan. The rears don't have the compressible split in the casing that the fronts do. I decided after having the left bush bounce out for a majorly large number of times it just wasn't going to seat. On my own today so decided it was safe to put the bushes into the freezer. Tried again 3 hours later and job done. Because the bush is on a solid cup it did take a good few drops on the 15lb side of the sledgehammer to get them home, probably around 30 as it wasn't slipping in easily. Anyone doing the rear frame bush should note the bolt holes are not central to the bush so orientation is very important as I doubt rotation is a possibility after they are fitted. Just the two new mounting cushions to fit now, seeing they slide onto the shaft I'm not anticipating any issues. Frame bushing guide: Tool - 15lb sledgehammer Materials - Grease Ancillary equipment - freezer Ease of fitment - Much easier than anticipated. So far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Good work, I've got all new arms, rods, nuts, bolts bushes etc. to go on. Going to have the underside totally redone as well while it's all apart but probably won't be until next summer. Will keep an eye on this thread for little bits of info and what not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 (edited) Collected together all the torque settings today for the reassembly: Torque setting Rear frame rear cushions 43 lb/ft (58NM) Rear frame front cushions 129 lb/ft Prop to diff bolts 58 lb/ft Drive shaft to differential 61 lb/ft Differential mount bolts front 108 lb/ft Differential mount bolts rear 105 lb/ft Stabilizer bar drop link (both) 54 lb/ft Stabilizer bar bracket 13 lb/ft And for the arms: Edited September 5, 2017 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Collected together all the torque settings today for the reassembly: Torque setting Rear frame rear cushions 43 lb/ft (58NM) Rear frame front cushions 129 lb/ft Prop to diff bolts 58 lb/ft Drive shaft to differential 61 lb/ft Differential mount bolts front 108 lb/ft Differential mount bolts rear 105 lb/ft Stabilizer bar drop link (both) 54 lb/ft Stabilizer bar bracket 13 lb/ft And for the arms: [ATTACH=CONFIG]222227[/ATTACH] Good job. That saves time searching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Collected together all the torque settings today for the reassembly: Torque setting Rear frame rear cushions 43 lb/ft (58NM) Rear frame front cushions 129 lb/ft Prop to diff bolts 58 lb/ft Drive shaft to differential 61 lb/ft Differential mount bolts front 108 lb/ft Differential mount bolts rear 105 lb/ft Stabilizer bar drop link (both) 54 lb/ft Stabilizer bar bracket 13 lb/ft And for the arms: [ATTACH=CONFIG]222227[/ATTACH] Image looks to be a different car, not a Supra?? - - - Updated - - - Good work you're doing though chaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 (edited) Shamed into replacing all the nuts, bolts and cams with new just placed an order today with Amayama. Its £240 worth DDP just for the fixings (quoted £280 domestic). I already had over £50 of new fixings so a complete set of rear frame and arms bolts, washers and nuts is £300. Also ordered a front set of upper and lower arms today (next years project?), that's another £1,200. Lots of places listing front upper control arms as discontinued so if anyone wanted to stockpile probably needs to order those soon. Another expensive Supra day, gone past £5k on parts alone. Edited September 13, 2017 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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