v6shep Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 So, thanks to you all for the help and guidance. Seems a few of you nailed it with the cause: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 I'm guessing photobucket want you to pay now. Anyone know how to upload without using photobucket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 On your quick reply there is a row of buttons above, text size, bold, italic, underline etc 3rd from the end is a picture symbol this allows you to upload to the forum. Choose a file from your computer / iPad etc or from an URL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 I'm guessing photobucket want you to pay now. Anyone know how to upload without using photobucket? Here you go - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?247543-How-to-Attach-images-to-a-post-thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 So, here's the little bleeder... - - - Updated - - - Cheers for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 That's a wire wound ceramic resistor that's got mad hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 What would cause that? Glad I bought another ecu from a member Konrad. Just got to wait for ROYAL SNAIL to actually deliver it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Seriously... Can anything else go chuffing wrong?!? Really getting to the point of forcing myself to keep away from the sledgehammer after tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 So, yet another update... Fitted new ecu, as excited as a kid in a sweet shop. Connected everything else back up, key in, turned over a few times, wouldn't fire up. Unplugged the king lead to see if it was sparking, nope. Reverted to the igniter test using the light tester with ignition on, nothing... Removed key, it sparked nice and strong. Not a clue what that's about as the instructions clearly state ignition on. But still, that leads me to believe the igniter and coil are fine and otherwise would work as they should. Next I did a quick error code check, and code 14 is the one I'm getting. I also disconnected my clifford just for the sake of ensuring it wasn't causing any problems. So, I've now replaced every part possible including ecu that could be causing my no spark issue except key and barrel. I don't know what else there could possibly be. I'm really holding myself back from picking up the sledgehammer :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Without trying to reverse engineer the circuit around that wire wound resistor one can only assume it was chosen to dissipate quite a few watts (3 or so, looking at the size of it). My best guess is its in an output stage to current limit a FET. So be careful, if you have a short somewhere external to the ecu the new one may be suffering the same fate. I would use a scope to see if the disi is outputting a sensible trigger signal, the look at the ignitor, then I would look to see if the coil was receiving a pulse. I would then try pulsing the coil with an external pulsing device. But none of this BEFORE unplugging the ecu and checking ignitor and coil leads for shorts to ground. If you think it's the ignition switch just put a volt meter on the coil positive and check circa 12V doesn't disappear when cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 (edited) this was exactly what mine was doing ,i tested everything, new TPS, new fuel pump, new rotor,it was so simple in the end ,took off the coil cleaned up the earthing points and the little bunch of wires next to the coil,and the igniter mounting points and bingo started first time and not had a problem since ,and code 14 is what i was getting . you maybe able to clean up your ecu pcb with IPA fluid and a cotton bud and get the resistor replaced, any tv repair shop can do that ,i had a blown capacitor just had it done today he checked all the tracks affected and relaquered the board cost me a £10.not tested it yet though gonna do it sunday http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?343555-ECU-capacitor-leaking Edited July 21, 2017 by Dave (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 Cheers you two. Did that ages dave. I do have a wiring question if anyone is knowledgeable in this area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 Any auto-electrians in the house? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Ah well guess not. Here's an update: Replaced igniter x3 Coil x3 Dizzy x2 Plugs Leads And ECU Checked wiring Still no spark unless testing using the ecu bypass with tester light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Konrad Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 So crank sensor is ok? MAybe ignition barell itself doing short somehow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v6shep Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 I thought that the NA had neither crank or cam sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kcoles1 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Na doesn't have any cam or crank sensors, my best advice is to add earth wired to your coil and igniter, also clean all grounding points, literally all of them, and check wires, if they look old or brittle just replace it. Had a similar problem to you and I read atleast 3 stories where they'd clean all grounds and replaced a few wires and it got it going! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Does your tacho move during cranking? and have you disconnected the capacitor in case its shorting to earth ? -lastly do you have a fluke meter or similar ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 You say you have a voltage at the coil + ,constant -have you checked this during cranking ? what is the voltage ? -Its possible that during cranking with the ignition switch turned , you are dropping volts , so the ignition coil, ignition unit and 6 coils all have low volts - the ignition switch contacts can easily cause this Try a direct positive wire battery to the coil positive and then start .-bypassing the ignition switch your ignition ring light is controlled via the integration relay this also controlls the personal light and the door key cylinder light -these should also be on - fade control in the integration unit or door switch problem also disconnect the capacitor -noise supression . From here you need to do some simple voltage checks and fuse volts drops - corroded fuses can cause problems dropping volts on load . hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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