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Rob W's Supra - Project Thread * Pic Heavy *


Rob W

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Popped to my brothers yesterday to put the hubs back together.

New wheel bearings, OEM seals, axel hubs and bushes. The Rear dust deflectors which were sent out were for a non-ABS hub which was a pain I didn’t notice earlier but didn’t stop the main items with the press as they are last item upon install.

Using an old wheel bearing which was a couple of mm smaller to press the hub onto the new wheel bearing worked a treat.

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Going to change the wheel studs to ARP’s so I pressed them out prior to installing the hubs, in hindsight I should of bought them and pressed them in at the same time but there you go!

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  • 1 month later...

Small update.

Been an exciting/life changing month with our little girl Darcie being born, thankfully everything went well and weighing a healthy 9lb 11oz! Obviously the car will get time as and when now but I’m in no major rush.

Prior to the above, as the OEM brake lines are discontinued; I made up my own with Cupro Nickel Kunifer lines using the OEM as a guide.

Turned out pretty good, epoxy and 2k them for some extra protection.

Also had some more bits blasted for the same coatings.

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Bought a cheap gazebo for spraying the brake lines mainly due to the length, done the job and will use for when I remove and refurb the front subframe, arms etc.

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I also prepped and sprayed the new OEM gearbox mount and rear subframe mounts as the stock paint is awful plus come scratched anyway.

Masked up the directional stickers and just clear coated over which turned out well.

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I ordered all new OEM bolts, nuts, washers, rubber bushes, clips etc from the back end up to the gearbox using Amayama. Come to around 230 items from Japan which should be delivered tomorrow, already received the other 30 odd parts from UAE.

I can then finally start putting some parts back on the car when I get some spare time!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Had abit of time spare so I made up a press for the bushes, 14mm stud, 3mm steel plate, 110mm hole saw and nuts washers etc. Also had to space it off the rear so I made a MDF ring for the hole saw to compress up against as the hole saw was not deep enough on its own.

Only about £25 in total and done the job well, put the bushes in the freezer and greased them up prior to pressing them in and wasn’t a too bad of a job.

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I came to another holt on the subframe as I missed a few key items when which one was for the Top Suspension Arms (Nut with teeth on) which finally arrived the other day.

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Just need to torque up the Top Suspension Arms, spray inside the subframe with Dinitrol ML and install the grommets.

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Hopefully get some time Saturday to do some more bits on the Fuel/Brake lines now the remaining clips have been delivered and maybe get the subframe back on.

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Thanks Matt.

Yes I looked at the PHR one and put that together just copying it, the front bushes went in easier then the Diff bushes; they required more force to get home.

All Fuel/Brake line clips/fixings are still available, they have different fixing methods depending on location so have a good look before ordering mate. 

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Managed to get a good few hours on the car yesterday, all brake/Fuel lines in place, subframe back on and torqued with suspension arms bolted on hand tight.

Had to remove one of the Diff bushes and re-install as it was slightly off but all good now.

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2 hours ago, Rob W said:

Thanks gents, it’s nice to finally be in a position to start putting parts back on!

One bit of advice I'll throw out is with the bolts its tempting to add some copper grease. You'll be unlikely to ever wish to remove the bolts again so there is no point but the main reason why its a bad idea is that all the torque specs from Toyota are for dry thread. Adding grease of any kind, you'd need to raise the torque setting a lot to get the same tightness as on a dry thread. I did grease up all the bolt heads though, just to protect those against future corrosion. 

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I have very recent experience with greasing of thread... 

Last winter i was spraying penetration oil on the adjustement bolts and nuts many times to help serviceman with setting the alignments of wheels.

I was very surprised when we could not reach prescribed torque and destroyed 2 washers under the nuts at rear axle. This all because of oily threads on the bolts so I ended up with all new hardware for adjusting of rear wheels...

 

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Suspension, subframe braces, driveshafts, handbrake cable etc all bolt on.

I jacked up each hub to ride height and torqued up the suspension arms and top mounts.

This will all get re-done on a 4-poster when it’s back on the road with the alignment anyway.

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Next is spray the gearbox, change the rear seal and get that back in then drop onto to fuel tank. Still trying to source a 2nd hand rear lower vent which is stopping the fuel tank install.

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20 hours ago, mwilkinson said:

Looks like new Rob.

You happy with the results?

Yes mate, slowly getting there; as normal I didn’t think I would go this much in depth but not point not going all the way when your half way through getting into it.

After all the prep it’s turning out how I would have hoped for which is always a positive. Still a long way to go but in no rush.

When the gearbox in back in, I’ll get it down on all 4 wheels to push it out the garage so I can get to the bolts for the front wings plus remove the centre console to swap out the new handbrake cable; something I never thought about at the start!

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  • 1 month later...

Finally sourced a lower rear vent from Australia, at least I can now get the fuel tank back in.

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Gave it a good clean up ready for some new foam on the back. Came out like new so was pretty pleased about that.

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My brother popped up to mine this weekend to help putting the gearbox back in, nice thing to get out the way so I have more space in the garage. Installed with new OEM gearbox and flex plate bolts.

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Also split apart the brake calipers as I want to go with a different colour, surprisingly still had 3 pistons that were in solid (CW Stainless Steel version) which 2 of I had to sacrifice even with air and penetration fluid to remove. Looking at the top of the bores after removal, looks like the issue was the outer rubber seals letting water sit on the rim of the piston when fully seated.

If anyone is going to do split their calipers and use air for the piston removal, make sure you have the block of wood in between as they pop out sharpish when they do!

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With the vent I'm not convinced the foam backing is a good idea. When I took my underside apart the foam backing was sopping wet and a bit of a rust area as a consequence. If I planned on using my car in the wet then I'd have replaced it with a rubber seal or rubber sealant.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made up the replacement Tank Breather line today so I could get the fuel tank installed, screw up the first but the second turned out good enough. 

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All new OEM parts for the tank, also bought the proper tool for fitting the Fuel Pump Hanger retainer ring.

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All connected up top end including the filler neck etc. Just got a plastic cover to put on that goes above the rear subframe and that’s that done on the Fuel back end.

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