Rob W Posted May 17, 2018 Author Share Posted May 17, 2018 (edited) OEM Auto gearbox and centre prop shaft mount arrived. Changed over the gearbox mount, ended up snapping the 2 front of the 4 bolts getting them out. I thought the gearbox mount might have been my cause of a different vibration I was getting after changing to the Vibra Technic Mounts but unfortunately it wasn’t. For me the Vibra Technic engine mounts seem to be to stiff for an auto so I’m now going to change them out for new OEM pre-facelift mounts. Abit disappointing as the Vibra Technic mounts have done no more then 100 miles and a waste of time and money for me. Big thanks to Scooter on the forum being a man of his words from near on a couple of years ago and sorting me out with a set of pre-facelift engine mount brackets They will be on the way to me soon and I’ve ordered a new set of OEM pre-facelift mounts coming from Dubai off of Amayama which should be with me next week. This year I actually want to enjoy the car this summer instead of me working on it, so I have spoken to Lee at SRD to carry out the following works and hopefully be able to book it in for next month. As much as I prefer to do the works on the car, I’d like to think I can trust the car and the work to be done with SRD: OEM Pre-facelift brackets and New OEM Pre-facelift engine mounts fitted. New OEM centre prop-shaft centre bearing fitted. Drill and tap 2 rear auto gearbox mount bolts. Look into light top end tapping. Also, took the car to an Aircon specialist last weekend to try and source my ever losing A.C which he stuck some dye in the system. I seemed to have found two connections that are leaking, one more then the other so the car is now booked in for next weekend to get the seals changed and hopefully a fully working aircon system for more the 3 days. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted June 23, 2018 Author Share Posted June 23, 2018 (edited) It’s been a few weeks since I went back to the Aircon specialist to have them seals replaced, I’m glad to report it’s now holding gas and still nice and cold which I’m happy about Got my rear boot struts back from SGS engineering, I went with new struts on the OEM brackets instead of regassing the OEM struts. Great service from them and I think the turn around time was about 4 days door to door. Tidied up my OEM subwoofer cover, was looking abit tired so gave it a light rub down and paint. Received my OEM pre-facelift engine brackets off of Scooter, thanks again mate So I gave them a clean up and paint to go with the new OEM pre-facelift mounts. My packages from Amayama arrived ready for me to drop to car off to SRD. All the new nuts, bolts etc worked out more expensive but the engine mounts were a lot better on price. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
214supra Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 Nice work Rob. Which aircon specialist did you use, was it local? I need mine done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted June 23, 2018 Author Share Posted June 23, 2018 Nice work Rob. Which aircon specialist did you use, was it local? I need mine done. Cheers Phil Aircon Direct in Northfleet, Gravesend so not too far for us. Contact number 01474 832941 and ask for Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted June 23, 2018 Author Share Posted June 23, 2018 Dropped the car off to SRD this morning, went through things with Lee. Hopefully he can make a start on the car Tuesday, seems like it’s in good hands with them. Looking forward to getting it back all sound without any vibrations and enjoy the car over the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 (edited) Picked the car up from SRD today, Lee and the team have done a great job keeping me informed and sorting out any other issues I had. Works carried out: New OEM pre-facelift brackets and mounts fitted. New OEM prop bearing fitted. New OEM gearbox filter fitted. Check over and re torque suspension bolts. Helicoil 2 x gearbox mount bolts. Smoke test. SRD intercooler plate fitted. Typically after getting my AC sorted, my battery tray had worn away at one of the AC pipes, with having the dye put in the guys spotted it when carrying out the works and replaced the pipe. The “light top end tapping” I spoke of seems like it was just me thinking I could hear an issue, the car is perfectly fine which was lovely to hear. Even though it was a 2 hour drive home because of traffic, it didn’t bother me as it feels like a new car with the new OEM pre-facelift mounts fitted with no vibration at all in traffic Thanks again Lee and the team at SRD Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 (edited) I was getting slightly higher water temps then normal sitting in traffic sometimes with the weather we’ve been having recently, the new sensor I fitted seems to be a lot more sensitive which is a good thing IMO. I tested the clutch fan and it had very little resistance when the car was at fully operating temperature so I got a new one on order. Part received I got onto getting it on the car. It was only about a 20 minute job and I didn’t have to drain any coolant to take the top rad hose off etc which was a plus. First I made sure I could get the 4 nuts that hold the fan blade to the clutch fan, deep 10mm socket on my 3/8” set was perfect. When all 4 fan blade nuts are off, I then took the 4 nuts off the water pump holding the clutch fan on using a 12mm flexi ratchet spanner IIRC. By then taking off the intercooler pipe going across the stock air box you then have enough room to remove both fan blade and clutch fan. I gave the fan blade a clean up before putting it back on, aswell as resprayed the intercooler pipe as it had a few marks on it. Comparing both clutch fans, my old one was notchy when spun and definitely needed replacing. It’s then the same procedure in reverse putting it all back together. Nice and simple for once, I like the easy wins now and then Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Glad it's all come together and no probs re the mount brackets, looking at this I really need to devote some time to mine cosmetically under the bonnet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 Glad it's all come together and no probs re the mount brackets, looking at this I really need to devote some time to mine cosmetically under the bonnet! Cheers mate, yes the brackets were fine and have made such a difference with the new mounts. It’s just getting the time, when you get into it I’m sure you will have more enthusiasm:) I’m just plodding along doing little small jobs now, there is no big tasks to do anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) Small update. Had a full set of the Michelin PS4’s fitted. Used a place in Thurrok called Wheel Traders, absolute brilliant service was so good with the wheels and jacking up the car. Would definitely recommend Also big thanks to Rich at Co-ordsport/PartBox for supplying me with the KW Variant 3’s in which I collected today. Hopefully get a chance to start fitting these in the week or weekend weather depending. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 What's your first impressions of the tyres. I have a pair on order for the rear atm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 I must admit I didn’t think they were as amazing as I’ve heard but I had good tyres on previously. I’ve only covered around 500 miles max on them, they seem slightly harder over bumps I noticed. Grip wise, progressive and they do stick to the road powering out of corners, but I still haven’t pushed the car that much on them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 looks great. What brand of intercooler do you have, specifically the pipes? i want a intercooler pipe what can go cover the stock airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 I must admit I didn’t think they were as amazing as I’ve heard but I had good tyres on previously. I’ve only covered around 500 miles max on them, they seem slightly harder over bumps I noticed. Grip wise, progressive and they do stick to the road powering out of corners, but I still haven’t pushed the car that much on them yet. not quite the answer i was hoping for not going to lie haha. cheers though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 looks great. What brand of intercooler do you have, specifically the pipes? i want a intercooler pipe what can go cover the stock airbox. Thanks I’m running the Blitz 4” 3 Row FMIC with a generic 3” FMIC pipe kit that I cut and mocked up to fit better, then had it welded up. I believe the GReddy FMIC pipework fits over the stock airbox if one ever comes up for sale mate. not quite the answer i was hoping for not going to lie haha. cheers though. Sorry bud, just being honest. Like I said I went from having the Vredestein’s which are a very close 2nd to the Michelin’s so that’s probably why I didn’t notice that much of a difference. The side wall profile looks good if that’s any consolation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 How are you finding the Vibratechics engine mounts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 18, 2018 Author Share Posted August 18, 2018 (edited) The Rear: Well wasn’t a bad process, just took my time with it and took me 3 evenings to get it all complete. Starting with the rear, first take off the 2 plastic covers over the top mount in the boot. 3 screws and 1 screws clip thing, this will reveal the strut top cover. Remove the cover, you will see the top mount with 3 nuts around the outside and one in the middle for the strut rod. Losen off the middle strut rod nut whilst it’s under weight saves you strugling later when the whole suspension strut is off the car. Do this on both sides so when you get the car up in the air it saves you time. Crack wheel nuts off a turn then get the rear of the car up in the air. Wheel off you will have something like this. I then undone the lower nut on the suspension strut first and removed then the ARB drop links. The Toyota ARB drop links have an hex key bit in the middle which makes it easier to get them off. Luckily as I used copaslip on the nuts and bolts when fitting all the new suspension parts a couple of years ago now it came apart without a fight. With this done, remove 3 top mount nuts in the boot to remove the suspension strut. Levering on the lower arm down you will just have enough room to pull the strut out from the car which you will then end up looking something like this. With the strut removed, I then removed the single center nut holding on the top mount. With my Eibach springs there was not a lot of force behind it so no need for spring clamps. With a 12mm drill bit I run through the center hole of the top mount which would then allow the strut rod of the KW to slide through. Using some lubricant spray I the pushed the purple KW collar over the underside of the top mount. Lubricant is definitely needed doing these. Screwed the center top nut back on as far as I could and it was assembled. With how car is sitting now I have left the rear ride height as KW pre set it to, 3” off the bottom of the perch. Just make sure the small hex key screw is tight. Putting the KW strut back on is abit easier as it is shorter in height to start with so I didn’t have to struggle levering the lower arm down whilst trying to fit it in. Slide the lower bolt through and screw up hand tight the 3 top nuts to secure in place. Measuring the height on the wheel, I then used the trusty stock sizzor jack to lift up the arms into the position that the car will be sitting at to torque up the lower arm bolt. I then re-attached the ARB drop link and torqued up to spec. Used the TSRM app to get the torque settings up easily and quickly. Repeat the same process to the other side of the rear, wheels back on and get it in the ground. Torque up the 3 top mount nuts and the center strut rod nut and you are done. Only issue I found is fitting the top mount covers, the strut rod taps on the underside of them, so even tho I sprayed them up I ended up taking them back off again. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 18, 2018 Author Share Posted August 18, 2018 (edited) The Front: The front takes a little bit more time, a couple more things to do to remove the strut. Same start again, loosen the 3 top mount nuts and the center nut and crack the wheel nuts a turn. Get the car up in the air and the wheel off. I removed the ARB drop link first, I removed it completely but you can just do one side just make sure it’s the side that attaches to the lower arm as it will help you later. Remove some of the arch liner screws, ABS sensor bolt and arch liner bolt so when you pull out the upper arm bolt it doesn’t put tension on the ABS sensor wire. Remove the upper arm bolt now, with the arch liner lose you will be able to slide it all the way out. Near side, you need to lower the stock washer bottle abit to get the bolt to slide behind it. The upper arm won’t suddenly pop out towards you just be careful. Next remove the 3 top mounts nuts and then the lower arm bolt, your ready to pull the strut out. With removing the ARB drop link off the lower arm out the way earlier, you can pull the bottom of the strut towards you which will then let you drop it down to manoeuvre it out. This just saves you trying to pull the strut out whilst levering the arm down. With the strut out, remove the top mount center nut and top mount. Again 12mm drill bit through the center of the mount, spray lubricant on the top mount rubber and push on the KW purple collar. Attach the top mount to the strut and ready to fit. The KW fronts are set at 2” from the bottom of the perch, this was to low for me. I set mine at 2 1/2” to see how it sits. Re fitting the strut was easy as it is shorter on height again like the rear, same process putting it back on. Using the stock sizzor jack again to correct height before torquing up the upper and lower arm bolts. Re fit the ARB drop links, ABS sensor and arch liner. With the wheel back on, torque up the 3 top mount nuts and center strut rod nut. This is how the car sits now, I think I will raise the front by 5-10mm maybe as it rubs slightly on full lock down slopes like car parks etc. Still, happy with how it looks. The ride is far better then the Bilstein B6 with Eibach springs I was running. A far better experience with the KW’s compared to the Tein Monosports I bought a couple of years ago. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 18, 2018 Author Share Posted August 18, 2018 How are you finding the Vibratechics engine mounts ? Used them for about 300 miles and changed them over for new OEM pre-facelift mounts and brackets. They were far to stiff for an auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted August 20, 2018 Share Posted August 20, 2018 Used them for about 300 miles and changed them over for new OEM pre-facelift mounts and brackets. They were far to stiff for an auto. This is good to know as I will be looking to replace mine in the next year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraTRD_MK4 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Swell work there mate. What was your reason for removing the Bilsteins? Old? Or wanted a lowered look and better feel of the car? Would you recommend buying 2nd hand oem Bilsteins or am I wasting my money? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 Swell work there mate. What was your reason for removing the Bilsteins? Old? Or wanted a lowered look and better feel of the car? Would you recommend buying 2nd hand oem Bilsteins or am I wasting my money? No the Bilstein’s have only covered around 2k miles, but our UK spec needs some new suspension as one strut has a slight weep. I was always in two minds when I first purchased the Bilstein from Chris Wilson. They are a good set of suspension but compared to the KW’s across road lumps and bumps is no comparison, the KW’s IMO are better in every way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 (edited) It’s that time of the year I change my wheels over to my winter set, whilst I’d have it up in the air I wanted to change the brake pads, brake shoes and fluid as well. Chris Wilson Uk Spec Fast Road pad set. Blueprint rear brake shoes. Rear brake shoe fitting kit. Motul 600 brake fluid 1.5l. ACF-50. I started on the rear first, I thought it was a fiddly job and I wasn’t wrong. Removing the rear caliper and brake disc revealed this state. I removed all the springs and brake shoes, gave it a wipe over with brake cleaner but didn’t go too mad with it. Made sure the hub flange was dirt free and a flat surface for the disc to be re seated onto later. Copaslipped up the contact points on the rear housing, moving areas of the brake shoes and the hub flange for future removal of the rear brake discs. The part I found the pain was pushing on the circle spring holders onto the bar. Have little to no room to get your hand in there to push them on and twist to lock. I was happy to see, 2 years on and the refurb I did on my brake calipers using Chris Wilson stainless steel pistons were still in perfect condition, moving freely and easily. I put a light coating of copaslip on the stainless steel brake pad pins last time around which made them put out with ease. I put the disc on, and tighten it up to the hub to adjust my handbrake to the correct postion. I done it like this so I could feel the resistance myself without the brake pads touching and maybe causing more resistance. After that was done brake caliper and pads back together. The fronts I didn’t take any pictures, it was literally just changing the pads over and a clean up. Flushed the old brake fluid out replacing for the Motul 600 using all 1.5l of it. When everything was done, I gave the suspension parts and subframes a coating of ACF-50 for protection. Unfortunately after all this, I couldn’t fit my winter set of wheels. My near side front schrader valve was leaking, trying to remove it to reseal I rounded off the head. I’ve had to drill it out and currently waiting for a replacement to turn up. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 Next on the list before putting the side pods and lower trims on was sorting out the seals and doing the wheel arches etc. Unfortunately the seals had been bent up by knob heads by tyre fitters etc, and bent up proper. I straightened them out and took them back to metal the best I could getting off as much surface rust as possible. I did some stages on these which took the time, letting each coat have time to cure properly. Rust Converter Etch Primer Paint Stone Chip Underseal http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221487&stc=1&d=1501528971 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221484&stc=1&d=1501528831 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221488&stc=1&d=1501528971 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221491&stc=1&d=1501529243 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221485&stc=1&d=1501528831 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221481&stc=1&d=1501528831 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221486&stc=1&d=1501528971 On areas like the arches I just gave them a clean with degreaser and applied underseal. Very time consuming job and one I don't want to do again anytime soon so I hope it lasts. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221494&stc=1&d=1501529609 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221495&stc=1&d=1501529609 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221493&stc=1&d=1501529609 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221492&stc=1&d=1501529609 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221490&stc=1&d=1501528971 Tided up the rear plastic stone guard and put the rear hockey sticks back on again as I took them off whilst doing the undersealing. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221496&stc=1&d=1501529646 As I'm putting on a facelift front bumper I wanted to wire in the front side indicators properly as I never liked having the pre-facelift indicator sitting behind the wing doing nothing. As I had the front arch liners out it was perfect timing to sort that out. If you take off the plastic loom cover in the arch you can pull back the wiring on the passenger side without having to cut the loom to the front. On the drivers side you have to lengthen just the white & black (neg) cable and another job done http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=221489&stc=1&d=1501528971 So after all this I put the side pods, lower plastics and front hockey sticks back on thinking bumper etc back on pretty much there job done.......oh no! When I took my intercooler off as I wanted to tidy that up, what I had been thinking for awhile came the truth. I had a fair bit of oil in the pipes, more then just a mist which I know has got worse over the years. I know the engine is sound, leakdown test awhile back and compression was around 180 across all cylinders so as I thought the turbo seals were on the way out. Seeing I had bought a set of very low mileage VVTI turbos about a year ago....well you can see where this is going! Can you tell me how you straightened out the jack stand pinch welds? Your first picture Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted April 27, 2019 Author Share Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) Had another batch of parts arrive from Paul at TCB Parts, efficient service as usual. Just need to sort out removing the old bushes from my spare rear subframe now, then get it sent off to be treated and sprayed. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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