a98pmalcolm Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Looking lovely mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Next on the list is looking into why my low fuel light is permanently on! Had this issue recently on mine mate. My theory is as follows: The baffle in the tank is loose, its supposed to be fixed to the tank, most likely through age. The low level sensor hangs to the side of the baffle, the movement of the baffle frays the wire on the sensor which is exposed. I replaced mine with a working one, only lasted a few days till it frayed again. As a solution, I bought a duraseal connector, the one that is submersible in fuel. Cut the wire at the fray, moved it to the outside of the sender so it doesn't contact the moving baffle, joined it with the connector. Been fine since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Wow that engine bay is clean ! Looking lovely mate Cheers guys Had this issue recently on mine mate. My theory is as follows: The baffle in the tank is loose, its supposed to be fixed to the tank, most likely through age. The low level sensor hangs to the side of the baffle, the movement of the baffle frays the wire on the sensor which is exposed. I replaced mine with a working one, only lasted a few days till it frayed again. As a solution, I bought a duraseal connector, the one that is submersible in fuel. Cut the wire at the fray, moved it to the outside of the sender so it doesn't contact the moving baffle, joined it with the connector. Been fine since then. Thanks mate, I will take another closer look then. I did take out the hanger on the weekend and everything looked ok, no damage. I might try getting a replacement hanger and dropping it in to see if it solves the issue, the lever arm is working fine only the light staying on. It hasn't been touched throughout the build, was more thinking about taking the speedo clocks out again and having a look if the problem lies there first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Cheers guys Thanks mate, I will take another closer look then. I did take out the hanger on the weekend and everything looked ok, no damage. I might try getting a replacement hanger and dropping it in to see if it solves the issue, the lever arm is working fine only the light staying on. It hasn't been touched throughout the build, was more thinking about taking the speedo clocks out again and having a look if the problem lies there first. Check for continuity in the sensor, maybe the sensor itself has failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 (edited) Well driving back from the gym the other night stopped at traffic lights I noticed steam coming from under the bonnet, temp gauge was showing normal but clearly something wasn't. At first glance I thought the rad cap had failed some how as the steam was coming from that location, but when I took the top rad hose off I came across this. I knew whilst I was doing all the work on the car I should of put a new rad in, you live and learn! I got on taking it apart thinking "I'm getting bored of this" so whilst I'm changing the rad I'm going to do a few other small bits that might not be necessary but just easier access now. Parts on order: New radiator. New Toyota red coolant. New water temp sensors. New water temp sensor connectors. New OEM rad shroud. New OEM fuel filter. New Walbro fuel pump. Used fuel pump hanger (hopefully cures my low level fuel light permanently on). I changed over to my winter wheels while I had the motivation to work on the car also, cleaned up my Volks ready to be stored away for the next 6 odd months. Cheeky pic of the Uk car out the garage for a wash Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted September 28, 2017 Author Share Posted September 28, 2017 (edited) A few bits have turned up, still waiting on the sensors and connectors. Thanks to Keron sending me out a replacement fuel hanger, hoping it's the cure. I thought I'd get that in this evening with my new Walbro fuel pump. This time as it is in bits I couldn't run the car for a few seconds with the fuel pump connector off to try and cut down the fuel going everywhere. It's wasn't too bad, just make sure you wear gloves. I didn't and has taken me ages to get the smell off my hands! Still had sometime so put my new radiator, shroud and small fan all back together to drop in. Before fitting the shroud and small fan I ran some foam weatherstrip around the edge of the radiator where it meets the radiator shroud. All back together, might be able to get it back in over the weekend even tho I'm in two minds as it might make it a pain for changing out the water temp sensors in the elbow when they turn up. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Cracking job as always Rob and whilst I bet you're kicking yourself for not getting it done before, at least it's done now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 I want some hard intercooler pipes what go over the stock airbox! where did you get them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 Cracking job as always Rob and whilst I bet you're kicking yourself for not getting it done before, at least it's done now! Thanks mate, yea was abit annoying having to take it apart again but just one of those things I suppose! Hopefully have the sensors turn up next week and finally get it back together. I want some hard intercooler pipes what go over the stock airbox! where did you get them! I done the custom pre-fab with my brother for the intercooler pipes so they fit round the stock air box and then had them welded up. How they use to be they would rub on the bottom of the side vents on the stock bumper which I didn't like, so as I had it all in bits I took the opportunity to do the custom pipework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 (edited) Yesterday I managed to put the car back together as the coolant temp sensors arrived in the week. I stripped back and re-heat shrunk the cables and fitted the new connectors. Over the years the sleeving had gone hard and tatty. All back togther finally, need to send off my Top Secret bonnet struts to be re-gassed and fit my strut brace back on at some point but not much else I’m going to do engine bay wise. After getting new replacement fuel hanger off of Keron, my low level fuel light was still on. I took apart the dash and had a look at the back of the cluster, taking out the bulb. I noticed for some god knows reason when I fitted my Metal Monkey dials I had fitted a led bulb in the low level light holder. For some reason it didn’t like it and no matter which way it was, it would stay illuminated instead. Changed it back to the stock bulb and surprise surprise the light went out and all ok. Waste of £80 for the replacement sender off of Keron but there you go. If anyone is looking for a good working fuel hanger and sender I have one here Interior back together, think I may purchase a new handbrake lever soon or get the handbrake lever and gear knob retrimmed the same as my TRD steering wheel. Also I want to come up with something to use one of the headlight washer switches as the rear fog light switch. I know you can get a PCB that changes the switch to a latching but something I need to look into when I get a chance. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Latching your headlight washer switch I hear you say. I might have already have done that You can do it with a relay quite easily. I've turned mine into my exhaust butterfly valve controller. I had to use a timer PCB too, but that would be superfluous to a basic switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Nice work, liking this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Latching your headlight washer switch I hear you say. I might have already have done that You can do it with a relay quite easily. I've turned mine into my exhaust butterfly valve controller. I had to use a timer PCB too, but that would be superfluous to a basic switch. Excellent, at least I know it can be done then. Can you remember which relay you went for to do this? Nice work, liking this build Thank you, slowly getting there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I think it was a 0-728-02 relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Thanks mate, I’ll have to figure out the pin outs on the headlight washer switch and should be good to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I'll see if I can look at mine for you. I don't recall it being very difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted December 28, 2017 Author Share Posted December 28, 2017 (edited) Small update with the car. First off, big thanks to Tim at TB Developments for my custom floor tunnel brace to fit around my HKS exhaust system. I made up a template and he fabricated off of that, fits perfect and quality item Whilst under the car fitting the brace I gave the underside of car a blast off from the 600 odd miles round trip to Cornwall we did, car run perfect and had no hiccups throughout the whole drive. As we stayed at Stonerush Lakes, it was in the middle of nowhere so all country roads so you can imagine the state of the car! My AEM UEGO gauge has been playing around the last month, it was just a loose connector but I had been thinking about replacing anyway. So I ended up going with the AEM Failsafe UEGO with internal boost sensor which after installing, I'm very pleased with it. It does data logging as well and you can choose what you want the gauge to display with the AEM software which is extremely easy to use. I have it set up as AFR on the outside and boost pressure in bar on the OLED display in the centre. Whilst have the dash out I fitted the handbrake lever I bought from Berg to replace mine that was abit tatty at the end of the lever. Today as it was nice weather I gave the car a clean and wax, also bought some RainX rain repellent and anti-fog which I applied to all the windows. Will wait and see if it actually makes a difference, will re-apply next time I wash the car as it does say to do a couple of applications. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Shes a beaut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 She's mint mate, love the work you've done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughdahellru Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Lovely looking Supra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X13mgr Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Just read the whole post rob. Bloody amazing work. Dread to think the amount you’ve spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 Shes a beaut She's mint mate, love the work you've done Lovely looking Supra Thanks guys, a lot of effort gone into the car over the last 6 months but been worth it Just read the whole post rob. Bloody amazing work. Dread to think the amount you’ve spent. Appreciate you spending the time to read though it thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Looks v nice, keep up the good work for us silver Supras Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 (edited) I recently started to get vibration through the steering wheel when on the brake at a stand still, which by previous experience is the sign of worn/ failed engine mounts. I changed them about 7 years ago for new OEM facelift mounts but after that time and only 30-35k miles the had failed again. This time around I thought I’d go with the Vibra Technic Drift Max TOY120M mounts as I’ve heard good things and saved me changing over the brackets aswell. I also bought a new OEM auto gearbox mount and OEM centre prop-shaft bearing to fit. I only got them last week so I will be fitting them shortly. Engine mounts arrived so I took a early morning drive to my brothers unit to get it on the ramp for easier access. The job in total with getting the car onto the ramp etc was about 1.5 hours so not too bad at all. Things I removed/loosened for install: Air box pipe. Cold and hot side intercooler pipes. Battery terminals. Drained radiator fluid abit. Removed top rad hose. Removed fan off fan clutch. Loosened rear gearbox mount bolts. Removed 2 x Metal subframe brace - 4 bolts on each. After removing the subframe metal brace pieces, you have a tight but clear access to the engine mount. First off we supported the engine then removed each lower nut on both mounts. Carefully lifting the engine slowly and making sure I had not missed anything and crushing or damaging parts kept lifting to the required height. I was surprised that we didn’t have to go as high as I thought. Removing the top nut, with a wiggle you can slide the bottom stud of the mount out with the slot in the subframe which then gives you the angle to remove the mount. New engine mounts. Engine mounts in. Also whilst I was down there, I fitted my new OEM rear tension strut rods plus bolts. These were the only 2 suspension parts I didn’t change when I done the suspension before but it was something that bugged me. I just polybushed my old set and just didn’t like not having them OEM like the rest. They was torqued up under full weight of the car which was quite awkward to do on the deck but got it done. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 (edited) I was after the car to have some TLC on the underneath, after having previously started to do this off axle stands as I prefer to do the work myself, I went against that and researched into who I could trust with the car and doing a good job. I managed to find Chris from CC Automotive the man for the job. He mainly does land rovers, which he has built up a great reputation and has people coming from all parts of the U.K. for him to do his stuff on the 4x4’s. He had the car for 1 week, and done a lovely job. Luckily for me, he said it was the cleanest for rust he has come across so there was nothing to worry about. I removed the OEM side pods, lower trims and wheel arch trims so he could look at it in detail when I dropped off the car. These are the following products which were used on the car: Dinitrol RC900. Dinitrol Cavity wax ML or LT. Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax. ACF-50. Dinitrol Super Protect 447. Dinitrol Stone Chip. A few pictures I picked from that Chris sent to me today. Whilst I was in the mood to doing a bit on the car I also finally got round to fitting my new OEM lower side trim clips. Nice and tight fit the the car now so much better. Edited January 10, 2022 by Rob W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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