ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Had a little search but cant seem to get alot on it... My starter motor went yesterday and going to fit a replacement tonight but from having a look last night I was wondering the best way to do this, from below the bottom bolt is quite accessible but the top bolt looks to not be enough room without dropping the auto box down slightly, is there any easier way of access that im missing or do you need to drop the gearbox down just to change the starter motor? - - - Updated - - - oh its a GTE engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzzyuzzy Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 I had mine done recently at SRD and the chap took 30 mins to finish the job. He did mention one of the bolts is fairly hard to take off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 I've got a spare if needed mate, can't help on how to do it though ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 I had mine done recently at SRD and the chap took 30 mins to finish the job. He did mention one of the bolts is fairly hard to take off. yeah there doesn't seem enough room between the top bolt and the shell without dropping the gearbox slightly, will do that if needed but hoping someone will have found an easier method from experience to make the job easier I've got a spare if needed mate, can't help on how to do it though ! thankyou for the offer mate much appreciated but I have the one off the spare engine I got in the shed and also the one off the white supra as thats in pieces atm at home too so im ok on that front its just the gaining access to remove that im struggling with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Has anyone developed an updated / uprated starter motor for these cars? Recently had to change the motor on my Dads Etype, the new aftermarket Bosch starter is a third of the size and weight of the oem one, and seems to work much better. Given the design of the 2JZ starter motor dates back to the late 80's, you'd think that a more advanced design would be available by now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Has anyone developed an updated / uprated starter motor for these cars? Recently had to change the motor on my Dads Etype, the new aftermarket Bosch starter is a third of the size and weight of the oem one, and seems to work much better. Given the design of the 2JZ starter motor dates back to the late 80's, you'd think that a more advanced design would be available by now? coincidentally iv just been told the exact same thing at work lol, my boss is a big Jag person and he was just saying the exact same thing and said that because of the fact its smaller its alot easier to change as he done it on his old Jag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 This thread might be useful http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?51682-How-To-Overhaul-starter-motor-contacts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 This thread might be useful http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?51682-How-To-Overhaul-starter-motor-contacts thankyou mate thats just the type of thing I was searching for but didn't find that cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 A fellow member changed mine for me and I am not lying when he had it off in 10 minutes, The key is plenty of extensions and maybe a swivel joint if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 No problem, seems like a certain amount of perseverance will be required especially if you only have one pair of hands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) Has anyone developed an updated / uprated starter motor for these cars? Recently had to change the motor on my Dads Etype, the new aftermarket Bosch starter is a third of the size and weight of the oem one, and seems to work much better. Given the design of the 2JZ starter motor dates back to the late 80's, you'd think that a more advanced design would be available by now? The mechman ones SRD sell look good, i like the painted version more to be honest, if mine goes ill change out for one of these edit im too tired, were not talking alternators Edited April 13, 2017 by evinX (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlT67 Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 I did one many moons ago on a manual and I think I did it all from underneath. Don't remember any dramas yourll be fine. I would certainly Disconnect the battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 I would certainly Disconnect the battery Should be standard practice on any part of the cars electronics you can't easily pull a fuse on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 A fellow member changed mine for me and I am not lying when he had it off in 10 minutes, The key is plenty of extensions and maybe a swivel joint if I remember correctly. Ahh ok thanks mate I shall have a go later and see No problem, seems like a certain amount of perseverance will be required especially if you only have one pair of hands! Yeah its all about that top bolt but im sure after reading that post I should be able to have a good crack at it tonight was just mainly trying to avoid dropping the gearbox but if its wrigglable (not sure if thats a proper word ) then thats great and would save alot of time The mechman ones SRD sell look good, i like the painted version more to be honest, if mine goes ill change out for one of these edit im too tired, were not talking alternators Yeah thats a good shout mate I did one many moons ago on a manual and I think I did it all from underneath. Don't remember any dramas yourll be fine. I would certainly Disconnect the battery Cheers mate il have another go tonight, was only really late last night in the dark with a torch having a look last night so hopefully il be ok after gaining abit more info off here now too yep battery is still disconnected from last night, was the first thing I done before looking into it Should be standard practice on any part of the cars electronics you can't easily pull a fuse on Yeah definitely agree with this is already disconnected from last night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 14mm 1/2 drive swivel socket, (ideally impact type as they are a lot stronger...), very long 1/2 drive extension with wobble end, or two shorter ones, and either an impact gun (fast and easy) or a 1/2 drive ratchet will get both bolts from underneath with no other dismantling. Very easy on a ramp, more painful on axle stands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Anyway, I thought you had the workshop manual tattooed on your body somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 14mm 1/2 drive swivel socket, (ideally impact type as they are a lot stronger...), very long 1/2 drive extension with wobble end, or two shorter ones, and either an impact gun (fast and easy) or a 1/2 drive ratchet will get both bolts from underneath with no other dismantling. Very easy on a ramp, more painful on axle stands. Thanks Chris thats perfect Unfortunately ramp isn't set up yet (still building shed for it) but to gain a little extra height we used a forklift to lift the front end up and put 2 concrete blocks under the front 2 wheels then dropped it down on those, abit industrial but nice and secure plus a little extra height Anyway, I thought you had the workshop manual tattooed on your body somewhere? maybe I should put that down the other arm after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Just had a good and a bad surprise... I was planning to change the starter motor tonight but Dad just called me and said as he knew I wanted the car for tomorrow he's been out and changed it for me... however the same problem is still there... I turn the key and all I get is 1 click and it doesn't even try to fire, it is every time I try and start it that I have 1 click but its never more it is only 1 and it is coming from the starter motor, does anyone know what else I can try? only thing that springs to my mind now is to check all the earth's but would I even get 1 click from the starter motor if the earths was the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Put a jump lead from battery negative to a good solid clean metal point on the engine. That will bypass a broken ground lead. see what happens. if no joy get a multi meter set to over 12V DC and put the red wire on battery positive terminal itself (not the connector). Then probe the connector to the battery with the black wire, whilst someone tries cranking the engine. see if more than 2V shows, if so that's a poor connection. Then get the black wire on the big terminal on the starter motor, see if you see a voltage drop there. Where you find a big drop is after a bad connection. Oh, before doing any of this put red to battery positive, black to negative and see what voltage the battery has WHEN CRANKING. Could be a dead or low charge battery...It should have at least 10V when trying to crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 If the replacement starter has bad contacts it will just click, try banging the body of the starter quite hard with a bar, but don't go mad. That will often get burnt contacts going for a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Not watched it but I suspect this video will go through the above: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Put a jump lead from battery negative to a good solid clean metal point on the engine. That will bypass a broken ground lead. see what happens. if no joy get a multi meter set to over 12V DC and put the red wire on battery positive terminal itself (not the connector). Then probe the connector to the battery with the black wire, whilst someone tries cranking the engine. see if more than 2V shows, if so that's a poor connection. Then get the black wire on the big terminal on the starter motor, see if you see a voltage drop there. Where you find a big drop is after a bad connection. Oh, before doing any of this put red to battery positive, black to negative and see what voltage the battery has WHEN CRANKING. Could be a dead or low charge battery...It should have at least 10V when trying to crank. If the replacement starter has bad contacts it will just click, try banging the body of the starter quite hard with a bar, but don't go mad. That will often get burnt contacts going for a few times. Not watched it but I suspect this video will go through the above: Thankyou very much Chris il give that a try as soon as I get home and see what I can find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Mine did the same as you and it turned out to be a bad earth from the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 My number is in my sig if you get really stuck Shawn, but don't leave it too late, advice from late in the evening from my corner bar stool is likely to be inaccurate, or even dangerous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnPreece Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Mine did the same as you and it turned out to be a bad earth from the battery. Yeah that was one of my main suspicions so I put a jump lead from the negative terminal on the battery to the inlet manifold but had no change, turned out to be a bad connection on the live from the battery My number is in my sig if you get really stuck Shawn, but don't leave it too late, advice from late in the evening from my corner bar stool is likely to be inaccurate, or even dangerous Thankyou very much Chris much appreciated, after trying out a few of the potential scenarios and measuring the voltage across battery terminals (12.6v) and various places I saw a huge drop from battery positive to live on starter motor so I put a jump lead from the positive terminal on the battery to the main power in on the starter motor then turned the key and it started fine, then knowing that it was to do with the main wire going from the battery to the starter motor I thought first thing was to disconnect the clamp off the positive terminal on the battery and give the terminal a good cleanup with a low grade sandpaper and then fired up perfect and working fine now was confused because I thought as the starter motor was giving a click that there must of been power there but I guess it was receiving less power due to a bad connection. Thanks again for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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