and1c Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 (edited) If it were mine I would be speaking to a Link dealer / installer. I am going on experience with the older AEM PnP units that also ran wasted spark, the fix was a HKS DLI, it was well known and documented in the US and UK, I even tried with and without on mine with stock JSpec twins and then a single. Was that using OEM Denso coils as well Wez? Had a response back from Link G3/G3LEM is the same thing. Yes you will need an ignitor or coils with a builtin ignitor. The G3 to G4 firmware upgrade is a relatively simple process, there is a charge for the upgrade "code". You can buy that through a dealer or possibly direct of us. Edited April 7, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Was that using OEM Denso coils as well Wez? Had a response back from Link Doesn't really answer your question. Ask them to confirm that the G3 LEM converts the ignition to wasted spark from stock direct fire and if so does it require an ignition amp when using the stock coils and igniter to run boost levels higher than stock. Charging for a firmware upgrade EDIT: yes mine was on stock coils when running AEM and DLI in wasted spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 (edited) Doesn't really answer your question. Ask them to confirm that the G3 LEM converts the ignition to wasted spark from stock direct fire and if so does it require an ignition amp when using the stock coils and igniter to run boost levels higher than stock. Charging for a firmware upgrade EDIT: yes mine was on stock coils when running AEM and DLI in wasted spark. Link have been really helpful, considering the ecu is not in their current line up. here is their reply, it doesnt really tell me anything I didn't know already but it's good to know and got me researching on dwell time for the coils. Which is tricky as they are'nt the stock denso ones but assuming they are not faulty (and them being at fault is a strong possibility) The G3 only had 4 ignition drivers so on a 6cylinder it would have to be wired wasted spark. The G4 firmware upgrade is about NZD$200 and gives you some nice new features but probably wont solve your misfire. One of our dealers lists the improvements here to save me typing it out: http://www.nzefi.com/product/link-g4-upgrade-lemg3-linkplus-g3/ A misfire like you explain is very common on 2JZ's if too much dwell is commanded as the Stock ignitor has over current protection built in which cuts the spark. Can you send me a copy of your current map (.pcl file) and I will take a look if this is your problem. I have sent them my map but the dwell settings are as recommended in other cases involving 2jz /standalone/stock coils/igniter., about 2ms at 14v/15v. (in fact they recommend 2.4ms) http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/1496-2jzgte-vvti-ignition-break-up/ Based on the current situation I think I am going to try the loan OEM coils and if it is in any way 'better' (eg more boost without spark blowout) than it is now I will buy a brand new set of Densos and go from there. Maybe replace the spark ignitor, or the other option I am looking at is an LS2 coil conversion. Will update! Edited April 8, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 (edited) Sorted the logging out... it does have live logging, just needs laptop hooked up as opposed to being able to store it onboard http://www.filedropper.com/livelog2 Misfire seems to be worse with the new coil wiring etc so I am definately thinking coils more than anything else. Whenever I put my toe down a bit, it would get to (4500rpm ish) or even less and then start missing. 'map limit reached' was the message on the Link software screen. I cant decipher much useful from the logs to be honest, anyone see anything obvious that I missed? 4340-4348 it is overboosting and hitting the map limit. This is clearly causing the ECU to cut power. Just got to find out the cause now!. Edited April 10, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foodfreak Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Just converted mine to R8 coil on plug because of spark blow out at high boost. much higher spark energy that stock coil packs. relatively easy if you are on a stand alone ecu gets rid of the igniter as well, changed the loom to come out of the rear of the head, & a lot cheaper that stock parts can't upload a picture at the moment for some reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Had a look at my old AEM map from 2007 for dwell settings, this would have been with a HKS DLI fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) Map Limit Reached sounds like something in need of further investigation. EDIT: map limit could also be boost limit which would use a cut (ignition/fuel). While logging check your map values and sensor linearisation, does the ECU have a built in MAP sensor or using an external unit? Edited April 10, 2017 by Wez (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) Map Limit Reached sounds like something in need of further investigation. EDIT: map limit could also be boost limit which would use a cut (ignition/fuel). While logging check your map values and sensor linearisation, does the ECU have a built in MAP sensor or using an external unit? Thanks guys It has a built in map sensor, this one http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6297-link-g3-internal-map-sensor-broken/ Also, Link modified the map to run lower dwell because of some limit on the stock ignitor they have had issues with before apparently. so at 12v its 3ms, 13v its 1.8ms, 14v 1.8ms, 15 v 1.5ms I don't know if it just coincidence but it seemed to idle a bit lumpily and maybe not run as smoothly as before. I am thinking of reverting to previous map which was only slightly higher at all areas. I only tested it briefly. Will look at MAP logging options tonight, I did wonder if the map sensor had gone dicky like in the link above!!? Will post back, cheers wez Edited April 10, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) Just converted mine to R8 coil on plug because of spark blow out at high boost. much higher spark energy that stock coil packs. relatively easy if you are on a stand alone ecu gets rid of the igniter as well, changed the loom to come out of the rear of the head, & a lot cheaper that stock parts can't upload a picture at the moment for some reason Cheers, any info on what parts you used? R8 as in Audi R8? Think LS2 is the route I would go tbo if I do that route but I need to try and prove that spark is the issue first! Edited April 10, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foodfreak Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 I'll try to get the part numbers later for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Cheers, I suppose the plug-well heat issue would be cured with that open top mod! Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Plenty of cars running over 600hp on stock coils with the spark plug cover when set-up correctly, without any ignition amps. I would hazard a guess that aftermarket coil configurations are quite rare as its not normally something that requires changing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Plenty of cars running over 600hp on stock coils with the spark plug cover when set-up correctly, without any ignition amps. I would hazard a guess that aftermarket coil configurations are quite rare as its not normally something that requires changing. No doubt, I was thinking more of the LS2 conversions where some have reported that the coils don't like the plugwell heat from the 2jz layout. It is a pretty easy conversion TBO as I would do the loom changes myself, with that said I want to get it running correctly before doing any mods like that. Hopefully will have some loan Densos to try soon and see if they help, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 So here we are again After making zero progress getting to the bottom of this fault, I decided to do a coilpack conversion, a member off here kindly helped me out with info for the R8 conversion but in the end I went for the 1zz coils as I got a good deal on some. Anyway, all wiring renewed, mil spec wire, heatshrink tubing on every joint etc, stock ignitor removed, 1zz converson done. Result!, in fact no change :taped: So here is a sh*tty mobile clip of the when the car starts playing up, sorry , it was going to be of the car running 100% and wasn't planned for other people to watch or I would have shown the boost gauge too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zi5j4elqm7o1h8/Video%2008-05-2017%2C%2010%2011%2039%20pm.mov?dl=0 Suffice to say the Link logging goes ape and flashes up MAP Limit reached when the hesitation occurs. I am now confident it is not a spark issue, here is what I am left with. AN issue with BOV? Or could it be a fuelling issue.? I am starting to get really frustrated with this... any ideas of troubleshooting would be most beneficial!! I seem to be going round in circles, the plus side is most of the engine loom has now been redone at the connectors so at least that is something. I was thinking of installing an FRP with a gauge to see whats going on fuelling wise, the problem is I can't obviously see that on the road, I suppose it would give me an idea of it though. If there was a supra specialist in the vicinity who would take it on and sort this issue I would definitely seriously consider doing that but sadly there are none and SRD won't take it on as they don't map Links. So I am on my own pretty much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 I think you need someone who knows/maps Link to look at it, have you checked with Link for a list of recommended mappers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) I think you need someone who knows/maps Link to look at it, have you checked with Link for a list of recommended mappers? I've been on to them today Wez, going through the logs it seems it isn't misfiring at all, it is boost cut, the ECU is sensing 23psi (and throwing a MAP limit reached code) but my boost gauge is showing 16 psi, So I am going to get a new internal map sensor for the ECU and see if that sorts it. Links tech guy said to check calibration of my boost gauge (analogue) and the internal map sensor by pressurising each of them to a known level and seeing what they say, well I have yet to have an analogue boost gauge fail on me but I suppose its possible. I've got a few Link dealers who are not to far away but one of them wouldnt do 2jz for some reason (evo place) and the other is booked up for months, so Im going to sort it myself if I can! If not then I will 100% be getting it trailered to a Link dealer... but I don't like to be beaten and I'm not.... not yet anyway!! Edited May 9, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) At last, the beast is fixed :cool: Thanks for all your input guys. The loom wiring had indeed sorted the misfire, it turns out there was two problems both causing related symptoms. The second being an incorrectly plumbed boost solenoid (whoops) Noticed that and replumbed it and the car is now pulling like a train, I am only getting 0.5 bar (wastegate pressure) for some reason so I will investigate that tomorrow (will check if the solenoid is stuck) but I just had a very fun evening driving it all over the place. Even at 7psi its quicker than anything I have owned before lol Feels like all that work and cash spent on it (full respray, replace most of engine loom, engine build,titan box, many hours labour etc) has been worth it. Might be a good summer then I've also got it booked in at a local Link dealer who are well respected not too far from me to do an initial dyno run and full healthcheck in a few weeks with a view to a bit more boost in the near future Edited May 12, 2017 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 Cheers for the help Wez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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