Supra-love Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 (edited) Had a great day fitting carpets and new seats, cleaned her in the sun, took the mrs for a spin after. Hit boost and car suddenly died and cut out. Loaded with fuel. Managed to get it to a lay by. But cranks over fine sometimes goes to fire but doesn't start up. Got to plug the laptop in tomorrow and chat with lee whilst doing it and try and find my issue. Thought I'd post incase anyone knows anything or has had this happen? Edited April 5, 2017 by Supra-love (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibby Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Ignitor.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Possibly the crank position sensor, if you have a syvecs it won't fire the plugs until it's seen 2 full crank rotations. Data log should tell you if that's happened, but if not there is a way to check it if you have small fingers! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Possibly the crank position sensor, if you have a syvecs it won't fire the plugs until it's seen 2 full crank rotations. Data log should tell you if that's happened, but if not there is a way to check it if you have small fingers! Lol Hi mate, yea running syvecs mate. Lee also mentioned the crank position sensor maybe! I'll be downloading the software for syvecs shortly, what's the little finger way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Sure you didn't over boost and blow a pipe or pipe coupling or maybe your cam belt snapped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Sure you didn't over boost and blow a pipe or pipe coupling or maybe your cam belt snapped? All the belts are fine mate checked them. Had a visual check of pipes all seem normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Update. Plugged the laptop into the syvecs. Camshaft sensor seems to be working. No errors or warning from the ecu itself. Next thing is to try the igniter if I can find a local member to borrow theirs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 What does the Syvecs map do if the hose comes off the MAP sensor? I'd check that out myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Any luck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 What does the Syvecs map do if the hose comes off the MAP sensor? I'd check that out myself. I have no idea mate, where is that located!? I wonder if it overboosted and something is stopping it firing back up!?? - - - Updated - - - Any luck? Removed the plugs and coils and cleaned them, checked the nearest spark and seems to get a spark but still didn't fire after that, check cranking and shows sensors are working so getting 720 sync on the crank. Absolutely stumped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 The map sensor needs to be between the outlet on the turbo compressor housing, and the intake of the head. Usually they're plumbed into the intake plenum chamber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Post a pic of the engine bay and it might be visible. You could also check in sCAL if you are seeing the right values on the map sensor, add gauge map1 as a trace around 10hz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Might also be worth pulling the datalogs, check this video for a datalogging guide :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Map sensor seems to be ready fine according to the screen laptop with syvecs plugged. I'll try and pull the data log tomorrow, but I did cut the battery off as it was draining so unsure if it'll be deleted now? Got a spare ignitor being sent today by a friendly member so can eliminate that tomorrow. Worried my timing maybe out or maybe a fuse or resistor. Might just get it off to lee tomorrow. Been very helpful via the phone but hard to get to the bottom of it through what's app. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) Well I took the log and ryan.g replayed this.. Luke, This log does indeed show the engine cutting out and you attempting to start after. All the Ecu Functions are correct with no Limp mode or protection mode activated. The Crank and cam sensor are reading fine after as it gains sync fine and sends Fuel and spark signals Need to get to SRD now to understand what has broke Ryan He also said, Oil Pressure, Knock and Lambda etc is all good before the fault happens so im confident engine is fine Ryan Edited April 4, 2017 by Supra-love (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Post what Ryan has said if the ECU is sending Fuel and you can smell it then the only other thing you need is spark. ECU appears to be sending spark request but I would suspect Ignitor has gone and you have no or very very weak spark. Personally I would take the plugs out and check them as they will be soaked in fuel. Let them dry out before putting back in and swap the ignitor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 Post what Ryan has said if the ECU is sending Fuel and you can smell it then the only other thing you need is spark. ECU appears to be sending spark request but I would suspect Ignitor has gone and you have no or very very weak spark. Personally I would take the plugs out and check them as they will be soaked in fuel. Let them dry out before putting back in and swap the ignitor Luckily I have a ignitor coming hopefully today been waiting all day. I removed the plugs and coils and gave them a clean. Checked the closest coil and plug, turned over and did see a spark. How strong I don't know.. As soon as this ignitor comes I'll pop it on and try... bloody hope this is my issue!! Thanks mate Will update as soon as I've tried the ignitor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) Luckily I have a ignitor coming hopefully today been waiting all day. I removed the plugs and coils and gave them a clean. Checked the closest coil and plug, turned over and did see a spark. How strong I don't know.. As soon as this ignitor comes I'll pop it on and try... bloody hope this is my issue!! Thanks mate Will update as soon as I've tried the ignitor If you are seeing a spark then really it should fire. when you turned it over did the open cyl stink of fuel? Whilst your waiting for the ignitor you could be taking the fuel pump out the car, clean it up so its not covered in fuel and then put a 12V supply across it to ensure the pump works. Dont run it for more than a few seconds as pumps that are designed to pump fluid don't like pumping air Edited April 4, 2017 by T2 MSW (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 If you are seeing a spark then really it should fire. when you turned it over did the open cyl stink of fuel? Whilst your waiting for the ignitor you could be taking the fuel pump out the car, clean it up so its not covered in fuel and then put a 12V supply across it to ensure the pump works. Dont run it for more than a few seconds as pumps that are designed to pump fluid don't like pumping air Yea I smelt the spark plug and stank of fuel. The fuel pump I can hear priming on ignition. But the spark i was getting from the plug was 1 spark every like 2-3seconds... are they supposed to spark repeatedly like every second or such? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Yea I smelt the spark plug and stank of fuel. The fuel pump I can hear priming on ignition. But the spark i was getting from the plug was 1 spark every like 2-3seconds... are they supposed to spark repeatedly like every second or such? OK not the pump then. At crank you will get a very slow spark but I would have thought a a full cyl cycle is quicker than 3 seconds - an expert will be along to correct me on that if I'm wrong. Back to waiting for an ignitor as all the outputs might not have gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 OK not the pump then. At crank you will get a very slow spark but I would have thought a a full cyl cycle is quicker than 3 seconds - an expert will be along to correct me on that if I'm wrong. Back to waiting for an ignitor as all the outputs might not have gone. Fingers crossed mate. Tempted to pull my current igniter and have a look inside.. Thanks for your input pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Fingers crossed mate. Tempted to pull my current igniter and have a look inside.. Thanks for your input pal Just be patient and wait till your temp one arrives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 Just be patient and wait till your temp one arrives Trying to be mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Anything else apart from the pump been changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 If it is the igniter, I'd use the opportunity to ditch it the oem coils and igniter and fit GM LQ9 coilpacks (built in igniter on each coilpack, replacements cheaper than Toyota coilscoils) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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