Glanza_Mike Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 what's up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Just searched and found a thread with a similar issue, not sure if any use, but long story short turned out to be a dodgy Positive Battery Terminal Connection : http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/archive/index.php/t-280186.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 Thanks mate I read that thread when I was searching for an answer so checked that already and it can't be that. Thanks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecoupe46 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Have you tried the VVTi solenoid? Get a new one, it's only £70. My old vvti ran like shit when it went wrong. It seemed to die when the engine warmed up. The vvti solenoid controls the vvti system (timing), and when it gets stuck, it can't adjust the timing, so it runs like shit. My BMW had a bad idle when warm for a while, but eventually it started running like shit constantly after a month or 2. replaced the vanos solenoid (does the same job as a vvti solenoid) and problem fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 A simple timing light, (well, an adjustable TDC one), will immediately show if the VVTi solenoid is stuck. Why are people happy to throw random bits at engines instead of spend on an hour or two of diagnostics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecoupe46 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 A simple timing light, (well, an adjustable TDC one), will immediately show if the VVTi solenoid is stuck. Why are people happy to throw random bits at engines instead of spend on an hour or two of diagnostics? I was able to diagnose mine, so didn't just throw parts at it, (the vvti solenoid was the 1st thing I replaced). But yeah, get a timing light on it and check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispot Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Can not see how a timing light would show if the vvti solenoid is stuck shut? Unless you remove filler cap and shine light on cam and then ignition timing marks whilst revving the engine to move the cam and allow for ignition advance? How would this be done using a timing light? Would be easy with a cheap usb dual scope measuring crank and cam sensors. Regards Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 So i just measured the inside diameter of my intake pipe that the maf is sitting in and it's smack bang on 3" so i very much doubt that's the issue. New spark plugs arrived but it was a horrible day so i only tried them in 3 spots, not under the coil packs themselves yet and those 3 made no difference what so ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 That's annoying It might be an idea to list the issues your having by bullet points in one post (first post on the thread would be ideal), followed by another list of potential and suggested solutions, and tick them off as you try them. Would really help people reading this thread and probably yourself too The thing is of it was the plugs, if I'd expect it wouldn't be running well while driving, especially on boost, and probably overfuelling too. Unfortunately teething issues are just part of going single, but I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Yeah that's a good idea mate, don't have time right now but i'll do it tomorrow. I'd agree about the plugs, i think it is running rich though, but runs perfectly fine as far as i can tell on boost, never missfires. ------------------------------------------------------------ So, i just checked another thing off the list, i removed the OCV and the VVTI solenoid and both of them looked in fine shape to me, no noticeable wear, no clogged oil. I cleaned them both up so they looked brand new and re-fitted and it made no difference what so ever. I'll remove all the coil packs again over the weekend swap the new plugs in, check the coil packs and leads. Can i clean the coil packs and leads with contact cleaner or brake cleaner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecoupe46 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Does it misfire only when hot? My old vvti supra worked fine when it was cold, but every time it got hot, the vvti solenoid shat itself and stopped working until the engine was cold again. I cleaned my solenoid up, but it did the same thing, so had to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Car doesn't miss fire mate, ever. Runs fine as far as I can tell apart from on idle. Idle is pretty lumpy when warm, esp when started when the engine is already warm, it's talked a few times in that specific situation. When I start it from cold it's seemingly okay until it starts to warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krister Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 (edited) Well the idle is lumpy if it's too low. Have you read this and gone through the trouble shooting? http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/ Does your cruise control work? Edited April 1, 2017 by Krister (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Well the idle is lumpy if it's too low. Have you read this and gone through the trouble shooting? http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/ Does your cruise control work? Vvti Supras never came with cruise control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Well the idle is lumpy if it's too low. Have you read this and gone through the trouble shooting? http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/ Does your cruise control work? good read that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Thanks for the article mate. I guess I need to buy a multimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Okay guys updates..... So today I replaced coil pack clips, replaced all the coil lead clips, removed all the plugs and coil packs and cleaned them thoroughly with contact cleaner including all electrical clips. No difference. Bought a multimeter and checked the TPS and it was fine. I checked the throttle control motor and its supposed to be between 4.2 and 5.2 and mine was 5.7 is this a massive problem? Something else I noticed is when I turn the car on when it's hot now it stalls, most of the time. When it doesn't it idles super lean, like 18 to 20 afr and after about 30 seconds goes to 15ish. One thing I tried was disconnect the stock exhaust afr bung or whatever its called. It started the same but after 30 seconds or San started to run rich like about 12 afr, and all the lumpy idle went away and it was smooth, went for a very short drive round the corner and back and it ran fine not lumpy but as I parked up and sat for 20 seconds it leaned right out to about 18 to 20afr again and the lumpy Ness came back. So I've plugged it back in now. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 What's the O2 sensor doing? You need some proper diagnostics doing on this, a good guy with a scope could save you hours and hours and be far cheaper in the long run. Can you monitor the water temp sensor on your multimeter? See what it's outputting as it goes from running correctly to being naughty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Hmm not sure how I would do that mate? I think that sensor needs to be plugged in for the car to run, but I'll give it a go tomorrow to double check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 (edited) Bought a multimeter and checked the TPS and it was fine. I checked the throttle control motor and its supposed to be between 4.2 and 5.2 and mine was 5.7 is this a massive problem? Thoughts? Miss read post . Can you not buy a cheap obd2 tool and look at all your input being vvti? Edited April 7, 2017 by mellonman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Already bought 2 mate, one didn't work and the second puts the car into limp mode after being plugged in 60 seconds and in the mean time said the car had no faults. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Okay more updates, just checked my OBDii scanner again and it worked this time. Fault codes came up as TPS, 02 sensor and accelerator position sensor, but they were the three things i unplugged yesterday whilst the car was running. So i cleared the codes went for a drive came back ran it again, restarted the car a few times and checked a third time and no codes at all. Stumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Change the ecu temperature sensor they are pritty cheap, as its heat related the things it could be is heat sensors or dry soild joint on parts that get hot. I take it you are still just on the stock ecu with the single turbo with maf on the intake right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdale Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Having a search around for my VVTI problem I stumbled upon this. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?34770-Fuel-Pressure-VSV&p=414913&viewfull=1#post414913 Post number 4. If that VSV were to stick, the FPR would sense the vacuum at idle and thus under fuel? Just a thought for something else to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Mike doesn't have any VSV's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.