bayside_supra Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Hi everyone I have recently had single conversion done at Whifbitz and they are lost for anymore things to try and sort this one problem out. As part of the conversion I had a Spec Stage 2+ clutch fitted, since that going in it has been really hard to get the car into reverse. It will go in with some force, and is slightly easier to go in if you put the car in 4th and then quickly to reverse from there. Initially it was suspected that the clutch kit itself was faulty, so we tried replacing it with one another one, still a Spec stage 2+. Made no difference. Since then we have replaced the master cylinder, then the slave cylinder. Now we have changed the flywheel, I even went for a Spec lightweight flywheel instead of OEM. I would have rather another OEM one but Whifbitz recommended this one for the conversion and I figured it would be matched to the clutch. All this and still the same problem. The gearbox was fine before anything was changed and is fine in all forward gears. Getting into 1st is slightly tighter than before but its barely noticeable, if reverse wasn't a problem I would not have even realised about 1st. And shifts are perfect up to 6th. There is no crunching or different noises when shifting in any gears including reverse, just a lovely noisy lightweight flywheel now lol. I used to have a whirring noise from the gearbox area, which went away when you put the clutch down. This no longer happens, which suggests the gearbox is fine and it was probably the release bearing before. Anyone experienced this before? I can live with it. It's just annoying how we cannot work out what it is! Very confused! Any help would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keron Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Have the alloy Cradle /tripod bushes been changed? These when worn can cause these problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayside_supra Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 I am not sure but I will ask, thanks for the suggestion. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keron Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Not really, other than the shifter back in correctly, the 2 rubber o rings at the very bottom of the shifter in place etc etc. Any form of play can make them not engage properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 I had this issue with my triple plate. The crux of it was the clutch wasn't releasing due to one of the plates being tight to the basket. Your spec clutch however is single plate as far as I know? So it wont be that. Definitely a clutch release issue. Can happen if the clutch plate isnt sliding smoothly on the input shaft splines. Also if the washers and release hub are worn that will cause this too. Also get that lightened flywheel out and in the bin. They are shite and you dont need them. Will make it horrible to drive. The stock flywheel is damped for a reason. Also if the cover plate is either misaligned or over torqued this will happen too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 I have an RPS tripple plate over the past few years and i always have to do 3th to reverse.. i think its 3rd.. to make ot easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayside_supra Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 It is a single plate clutch yes. After having the clutch in and out 3 times I think all those parts would have been checked. I will also mention it to Whifbitz to make sure though. The Spec flywheel was recommended by Paul Whiffin over an oem one. I have to say that other than the noise I can't see any ill effects driving with it yet. The engine just seems more lively which means I hit boost faster. I'm guessing it will last longer perhaps? I haven't driven it far yet that but it wasn't too bad in traffic. Just wish it didn't rattle but it's not as bad for this as I expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 It is a single plate clutch yes. After having the clutch in and out 3 times I think all those parts would have been checked. I will also mention it to Whifbitz to make sure though. The Spec flywheel was recommended by Paul Whiffin over an oem one. I have to say that other than the noise I can't see any ill effects driving with it yet. The engine just seems more lively which means I hit boost faster. I'm guessing it will last longer perhaps? I haven't driven it far yet that but it wasn't too bad in traffic. Just wish it didn't rattle but it's not as bad for this as I expected. /QUOTE] I appreciate you would expect that it has all been correct but without prejudice, its clearly not installed correctly as reverse and 1st should operate as stock even with the aftermarket clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasmt Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I had this problem last year after fitting a fidanza flywheel and stock clutch, was going to uprate the clutch but ran out of time and needed it on the road. I found the slave cylinder pin wasnt travelling enough to disengage the clutch. Made an adjustable one, see pic. That did the job, once the clutch had bedded in tho ive not had any problems at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Definitely not clutch drag? I had this on mine when I got back from SRD and had to adjust the clutch pedal bite engagement nut slightly then it slipped into every gear flawlessly. Lee advised over the phone on how to resolve. Reverse and first gear were really tough, especially when cold. You've probably checked this but worth a look. Is the bite point normal or lower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Put a smaller bore slave cylinder on it. I can modify master and slave cylinder bore sizes for special applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayside_supra Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 I've been busy putting some miles on the car to see if it helps. No change so far, only thing I have noticed is an occasional resistance from 4th to 5th at speed. I would imagine this is unrelated and just something age related in the box. As long as I shift smoothly it's fine. The biting point is normal. I will suggest these things to Paul and see what thinks. What would a smaller bore slave cylinder do out of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Probably make it fully release and not destroy the synchros Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Like chris said... if its that bad and you still need to drive the car then either miss out 4th before it buggers your gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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