Dnk Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 (edited) Heres some more photos, a bit clearer on gaps etc My wheels were 19 x 11 and 19 x 9.5 sorry i cant recall the offsets Front tyres 255 35 19 Rear tyres 295 30 19 Pretty sure the Eibach pro sports dropped the car by 30mm front and 25mm rear, they're sadly no longer available now as far as i can see Edited January 28, 2017 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 What a beauty she was! /QUOTE] Cheers mate Perhaps i should of kept it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Thanks Dunk! CW setup should work with mine so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Whilst im here i may aswell ask a question about these One of the 'valves' has been blanked with a screw on these.. will this mean its goosed of wont perform correctly? Guy doesnt want much for them and i only need the rears. Anyone had experience like this before with them? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Cheers mate Perhaps i should of kept it Should never have sold it Simon!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Whilst im here i may aswell ask a question about these One of the 'valves' has been blanked with a screw on these.. will this mean its goosed of wont perform correctly? Guy doesnt want much for them and i only need the rears. Anyone had experience like this before with them? Thanks! [ATTACH=CONFIG]216753[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]216754[/ATTACH] Is there any gas charge left in it? To tell you need to remove the spring, depress the piston rod fully and see if it is pushed back firmly out by the gas charge under the floating piston. These can be rebuilt, but only with new top bearings, new piston rods, new pistons and new (but a lot better...) valving. Cost will be high. Whether the Schradar valve can be fixed is hard to say without seeing it/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 The guy knows nothing about them chris, he bought them then crashed his car. Iv mailed him see if he can do what you described Thanks for your reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Hi Chris Do not want to offend but how does your setup compare to Nitron R1(1-Way) ? I think I read yours are a progressive spring as opposed to a straight string on the Nitron , what is the benefit of a progressive spring? How do the valves compare ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Nitrons arer probably more track orientated with single rate springs. Dual or progressive rate allow a softer rate thet firms up as the spring compresses, so you get some compliance that quickly firms in roll or bump. Gives a much better ride and can give better traction. Progressive rate springs are much more expensive to make. You can achieve progressive rate with turn spacing, closer turns are are softer per inch of spring length than wider spaced ones. a coil spring is just a torsion bar coiled up. A longer bar is softer in twist than a shorter one.... Simple! To get the needed spring length for progression usually means going bigger diameter than the cheap as chips, produced in the tens of thousands 2.225 and 2.5" diameter ones. A cheap way to get dual rate springs is to use hefty "helper springs", those flat wire springs most often used with a very low rate to keep springs that are too short on their seats, and that collapse soild under the weight of the car. they can be obtained in very high rates and become part of a dual rate spring set up. Ultimate and lightest is a Titanium spring wound from tapered wire. Porsche ran these on some of the Le Mans cars and a friend has a pair. To me the Faberge Egg of the spring world! Sad ehhh? Nitrons are built with competition in mind and reduced internal friction. Bilsteins based on road car dampers are built for a good longevity with no rebuilding, so have more durable seals. Valving is similar, in longevity and sophistication. I was lucky to find a guy selling the only two sets of Eibach dampers made for a Skyline R34. Yes, Eibach made dampers. they were just about the best, cost no object, to break into F3, with Teflon seals, ultra, ultra low friction, with "Faberge Egg" valving. He had no idea what they were, how rare they were, or what they were worth. They were advertised as a box of Eibach shock absorbers for a Nissan. I was the only responder and got them for, well, not much at all. The original purchaser paid £1800 plus VAT per damper... Donald's got Melania, I have my Eibachs Pub quiz trivia question. What VW road car had titanium rear coil springs as standard? Edited February 1, 2017 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Pub quiz trivia question. What VW road car had titanium rear coil springs as standard? Without cheating, I would guess the Lupo 3l. I know lots of magnesium and aluminium were used to keep the weight down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Yep, 2001 Lupo, I only found out when looking for a photo of the Porsche springs! Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Thanks Chris I sent you an email to price me up Just for reference to other members Nitron We suggest servicing every 12-18,000 miles for a road car, obviously if your car is used on the track mainly this mileage is greatly reduced due to the much higher operating temperatures. I always tell customers to regularly check the adjusters are still turning freely and the clicks are still as positive as the day you received them and to keep the piston rod lubricated and free of debris and then to use your best judgment of when they will need to be serviced, most people service every 3-5 years. Sadly we don’t offer dust boots for our shocks, you may be able to find spring socks that would effectively do the same thing. If you want to focus on track performance then obviously you will have to sacrifice compliancy for the road, we try to keep this to a minimum however as performance is our main goal you will notice a difference. We also use spherical bearings rather than rubber mounts so you will encounter more road noise. Spring rates for a track focussed car would be 700lbs front 400lbs rear. Edited February 1, 2017 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Thanks Chris I sent you an email to price me up Just for reference to other members Nitron We suggest servicing every 12-18,000 miles for a road car, obviously if your car is used on the track mainly this mileage is greatly reduced due to the much higher operating temperatures. I always tell customers to regularly check the adjusters are still turning freely and the clicks are still as positive as the day you received them and to keep the piston rod lubricated and free of debris and then to use your best judgment of when they will need to be serviced, most people service every 3-5 years. Sadly we don’t offer dust boots for our shocks, you may be able to find spring socks that would effectively do the same thing. If you want to focus on track performance then obviously you will have to sacrifice compliancy for the road, we try to keep this to a minimum however as performance is our main goal you will notice a difference. We also use spherical bearings rather than rubber mounts so you will encounter more road noise. Spring rates for a track focussed car would be 700lbs front 400lbs rear. I'm in the house / bed with `flu, but will reply ASAP. Those track spring rates would be dreadful on the road, but i regularly see people run similar rates and wonder why they have frighteningly snappy breakaway and no traction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I'm in the house / bed with `flu, but will reply ASAP. Those track spring rates would be dreadful on the road, but i regularly see people run similar rates and wonder why they have frighteningly snappy breakaway and no traction. No Rush Chris , Car is off the road , might re-tax it today Its been 10 years on my current setup , my spine is truely gone LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 No Rush Chris , Car is off the road , might re-tax it today Its been 10 years on my current setup , my spine is truely gone LOL What setup are you running bud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 What setup are you running bud? TRD Bilstein and Springs Front K=107.8N/mm Rear K= 92.1N/mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 TRD Bilstein and Springs Front K=107.8N/mm Rear K= 92.1N/mm Jesus! You need a CW setup in you're life for sure:d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Jesus! You need a CW setup in you're life for sure:d What spring rates are you running on the Nitrons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdale Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I'm pretty much decided I'll be getting Bilstein dampers and seem pretty easy to get hold of. However springs seem much more of an unknown. Are they a lot more "generic" in that any decent spring maker can make a coil with "x" characteristics/stiffness or are there certain ones to be recommended? Is there a trusted manufacturer that has a range of suitable springs of various stiffnesses for example? Let's assume I'm looking for stock rivalling performance/comfort as my back is similar to jellybeans, as are my ridiculous current coilovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Fair Summary? Nitrons have No dust boots Use spherical bearings rather than rubber mounts so you will encounter more road noise but positives of less compliance most people service every 3-5 years (Road car) Higher Cost Single rate Springs Reduced internal friction 2-Way combined damping adjustment high-grade materials protect against corrosion whilst reducing weight CW Setup built for longevity with no rebuilding Progressive rate springs (better ride and can give better traction) Valving is similar, in longevity and sophistication to Nitron No damping adjustment OE Dust boots Fit (Sold separately) OE Bump Stops Fit (Sold separately) Edited February 1, 2017 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 I would add that the Nitrons are adjustable for ride height ON the car, my Bilstein kit is adjustable OFF the car. Screw type adjusters are NOTORIOUS for seizing up, circlip seat adjustment rarely seizes even after years of being untouched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Does anyone know if GAZ shocks are any good as they are a local company to me and will be handy if any future problems with great price range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) What spring rates are you running on the Nitrons? Fronts are 700Lbs/inch 12.5kg/mm with 150lbs/inch 2.67kg/mm helper spring Rears are 525lbs/inch 9.3kg/mm with 150lbs/inch 2.67kg/mm helper spring Might add that all four Nitron units weigh about the same as one bilstien shock and spring! Never had any issues with the spring seat seizing and no corroding at all! Edited February 2, 2017 by fastcar (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) Fronts are 700Lbs/inch 12.5kg/mm with 150lbs/inch 2.67kg/mm helper spring Rears are 525lbs/inch 9.3kg/mm with 150lbs/inch 2.67kg/mm helper spring Might add that all four Nitron units weigh about the same as one bilstien shock and spring! Never had any issues with the spring seat seizing and no corroding at all! They are even stiffer than mine! Must be a rock on the road Readng on here I think 600 lbs ins fronts and 320 lbs ins rear are better suited to a road car, not too sure if a Helper Spring would be a way around of trying to mimic a Progressive spring at a cheaper cost Edited February 2, 2017 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Mine are HSD Dualtech: Front -16KG/mm Rear - 10KG/mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.