Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Rebuilding block advice


Suprakeith

Recommended Posts

I will start at beginning, I have NA supra and have removed engine to do NA-T build after noticed had knocking noise.

I have removed engine and initial idea was to do fully forged block, but reckon will cost about 4K and was thinking does it make more sense to buy pre-built TT block from Whifbitz.

Question is how much power can the standard TT block take with NA head?

 

I am also running Nos system that's why thinking forged build be best, but thinking 600-700bhp is realist goal as want to have very fast road car that can use on strip and track, but don't want to have to take block out again in few years.

 

Also on another note I did suspect little end had gone from rattle as noise was bottom of back on engine but when took clutch off the flywheel bolts were only finger tight, so now think that could of been noise just hope hasn't damaged crank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thing is..

 

Are you looking at rebuilding an NAT or an actual TT

 

NAT higher compression.

TT lower compression.

 

NAT no oil squirters

TT oil squirters.

 

Standard bottom end is pretty strong on nas and TTs.

 

Alot of the time it's not the power it's the tune that kills them.

 

Either way just throwing an engine in isn't going to fix the tune issue...

 

I suggest you get proper ECU fueling as well and be prepared to spend a couple of more K.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thing is..

 

Are you looking at rebuilding an NAT or an actual TT

 

NAT higher compression.

TT lower compression.

 

NAT no oil squirters

TT oil squirters.

 

Standard bottom end is pretty strong on nas and TTs.

 

Alot of the time it's not the power it's the tune that kills them.

 

Either way just throwing an engine in isn't going to fix the tune issue...

 

I suggest you get proper ECU fueling as well and be prepared to spend a couple of more K.

 

/QUOTE]

 

The actual blocks are the same GE or GTE.

Pistons are different in both to lower compression ratio and heads are different. If you are getting a motor built with forged pistons and conrods then you don't really need the oil squirters from the GTE block as the pistons don't have the OEM channels.

 

There's a lot of different views on the standard block hp limit. I have heard of 700whp stock blocks being fine for years but some have done more and been ok, some have not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am getting link G4+ ecu, and if go forged don't need oil squirters but if get TT block it will have squirters. I am planning NA-T as using NA head and already have the half of the turbo kit.

Will be using NA head gasket on the build, the plan was never to do this, I was just going to do basic NA-T conversion using original NA block but the knocking noise has forced my hand to do full rebuild and just need to know what standard TT block can take running NA head.

I have seen people running 550bhp NA-T builds using TT pistons but I want to take car to 600-700bhp and want car to be reliable.

 

Also another question I have please is if I get my blocked machined and honed or rebored if needed and buy brand new forged rods and pistons with correct size rings to match bores, can I bolt block together myself or will it need to done by specialist?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am getting link G4+ ecu, and if go forged don't need oil squirters but if get TT block it will have squirters. I am planning NA-T as using NA head and already have the half of the turbo kit.

Will be using NA head gasket on the build, the plan was never to do this, I was just going to do basic NA-T conversion using original NA block but the knocking noise has forced my hand to do full rebuild and just need to know what standard TT block can take running NA head.

I have seen people running 550bhp NA-T builds using TT pistons but I want to take car to 600-700bhp and want car to be reliable.

 

Also another question I have please is if I get my blocked machined and honed or rebored if needed and buy brand new forged rods and pistons with correct size rings to match bores, can I bolt block together myself or will it need to done by specialist?

 

I don't mean any offense by this, but if you have to ask that question then it's maybe best having one of the known engine builders do it for you.

 

All it takes is one error in assembly and the life of that engine could go down the toilet.

 

Considering getting a fully forged bottom end is not a cheap exercise, you need to ask yourself if you are willing to learn how to re-assemble a bottom end properly, and can you trust yourself not to make a mistake? Will you be able to spot a mistake if you are not aware of it being a mistake?

 

 

I see you said that you wanted 600-700hp. Coming from an NA with a small nitro shot thats going to be a huge leap, and you will need to upgrade the rest of the car to handle this (gearbox, diffs, brakes, clutch, tyres etc).

 

If I were you, I'd just get another GE engine whilst they are still cheap. NA-T that and get the max out of it that you can, especially if you have a Link ECU at your disposal. Then you can mess around with the spare block on the side and learn whats what with it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't mean any offense by this, but if you have to ask that question then it's maybe best having one of the known engine builders do it for you.

 

All it takes is one error in assembly and the life of that engine could go down the toilet.

 

Considering getting a fully forged bottom end is not a cheap exercise, you need to ask yourself if you are willing to learn how to re-assemble a bottom end properly, and can you trust yourself not to make a mistake? Will you be able to spot a mistake if you are not aware of it being a mistake?

 

 

I see you said that you wanted 600-700hp. Coming from an NA with a small nitro shot thats going to be a huge leap, and you will need to upgrade the rest of the car to handle this (gearbox, diffs, brakes, clutch, tyres etc).

 

If I were you, I'd just get another GE engine whilst they are still cheap. NA-T that and get the max out of it that you can, especially if you have a Link ECU at your disposal. Then you can mess around with the spare block on the side and learn whats what with it

 

No offence taken at all, I have rebuilt old ford blocks years ago but never build forged block myself that's why was asking about is building it the same in sense, I know sounds stupid but just checking the theory is the same as before just replaced standard size new pistons back into block. I will more than likely get it built properly as don't want to take any risks.

Also I already have uprated brakes and rest of car to take power, all need after build is better gearbox as I have the W58 box

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.