Propshaft end float

[Mk4Gaz]

Hi guys, I'm after a bit of advice if poss.

 

When installing a prop shaft, should there be any end float at the output shaft of the gearbox, or if a prop was the exact right length, with no float at all, would that be ok?

 

 

[Mike2JZ]

On my w58 to na lsd there is some float.

[Mk4Gaz]

Thanks bud, I've read that 20mm is about normal

 

Basically, I'm finishing up my r154 conversion - from tt auto, but I'm having issues with the prop.

I've removed the 4 bolt flange off the output shaft on a spare na auto box here, which happens to slide onto the r154 perfectly. My original auto prop fits the gap perfectly, but it's tight, and there is no room for float at all.

 

The other option I have, is to keep the auto prop, but have the front cut just behind the yoke, and weld the front from an na prop to it, with the correct splined section on. But, as the auto prop is adjustable, although it will work, there's no way of stopping the prop from sliding back out of the gearbox, without locking the clamping nut - which again, will stop any end float being available.

 

I've tried the whole 'mk3 front prop, to na rear prop' thing, but it doesn't work. The diff coupling on the na rear, is too small to bolt to my tt diff, so that rules that out. Also, the combination is still 40mm too short.

 

 

[Mike2JZ]

Thanks bud, I've read that 20mm is about normal

 

Basically, I'm finishing up my r154 conversion - from tt auto, but I'm having issues with the prop.

I've removed the 4 bolt flange off the output shaft on a spare na auto box here, which happens to slide onto the r154 perfectly. My original auto prop fits the gap perfectly, but it's tight, and there is no room for float at all.

 

The other option I have, is to keep the auto prop, but have the front cut just behind the yoke, and weld the front from an na prop to it, with the correct splined section on. But, as the auto prop is adjustable, although it will work, there's no way of stopping the prop from sliding back out of the gearbox, without locking the clamping nut - which again, will stop any end float being available.

 

I've tried the whole 'mk3 front prop, to na rear prop' thing, but it doesn't work. The diff coupling on the na rear, is too small to bolt to my tt diff, so that rules that out. Also, the combination is still 40mm too short.

 

/QUOTE]

 

20mm sounds about right. When you put the prop on mine, you can slide it all the way in, but then the center bearing holes don't line up. When you pull on the prop a little bit to get the center bearing bolts to line up then you have about 20mm of float I'd say.

 

I'm not sure if running the gearbox with no float will have any adverse effects?

[Mk4Gaz]

That's what I'm thinking.

The only way I can think of getting this to work, if float is important, would be to do what I've done, but bolt the 4 bolt auto flange to the threaded hole on the r154 output shaft, and then have my original auto prop cut down by 20mm, which will then give me some float - without risking pulling the 4 bolt flange out of the r154.

 

 

[Mike2JZ]

That's what I'm thinking.

The only way I can think of getting this to work, if float is important, would be to do what I've done, but bolt the 4 bolt auto flange to the threaded hole on the r154 output shaft, and then have my original auto prop cut down by 20mm, which will then give me some float - without risking pulling the 4 bolt flange out of the r154.

 

/QUOTE]

 

Might be worth asking other r154 soarer/mkiii owners about float. I'd presume that from the factory it would have a similar setup float to the W58, but maybe it doesn't have any from the factory in which case you could get away without chopping it