marbleapple Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Tiny update. With Christmas out of the way I finally opened the box of parts I had ordered before Christmas. Pretty pictures below. The above is a vast improvement on the one currently in my car. I've set myself a deadline of 30 April to have finished my tinkering. 30th being Japfest. Never been but plan to go this year. Before now and then I want to tidy up the engine bay and interior, have the rust on the boot lid and bonnet repaired (and repainted) and get the car professionally detailed. I also want to get some facelift headlights if I can find some at sensible prices. If anyone knows a place near Leeds / Bradford that is good at body work then please let me know! My work commitments mean that I have very little spare time. My objective this week is to start swapping out some of the old rusted bolts and replacing them with new ones that I have bought. I also plan to replace the radiator clamps. My father is going to give me a hand with the leak around the distributor but he is abroad till the end of Jan so it will have to wait. edit: I've forgot to mention that I have also bought some replacement bulbs for the headlights. Hopefully I can sort them out this week too! Edited January 8, 2017 by marbleapple (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kendo11 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Nice one! Always nice opening up proper brand new Toyota stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Hi all. We are in the process of replacing the distributor seals. To get the dizzy out of the engine block is it just the adjuster bolt we undo or is there another one somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Just the bolt in the slotted hole. Be sure to time the engine up and then mark the bolt / hole relationship indelibly *BEFORE* you yank it out. It will undoubtedly need a new O ring when re-fitting to avoid an oil leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Where did you get that original air box from? They are a prized asset these days as too many were simply thrown away and Toyota don't sell them anymore. I had a broken clip on my air box lid and thankfully that was still an available item from Toyota so get your order in quick on that as I expect they aren't making them any more so when stocks are gone, they are gone. I've been looking into availability of bushes from Toyota and there are several no longer in stock. Same issues pending on suspension parts and with ABS sensors there are only supplies of one of the four still around. Pretty soon we will all be living off recycled Supra and Soarer parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Ok. Dizzy back after rings have been replaced. All lined up. Engine turns but not firing at all! Any ideas? I've checked the leads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Did you remember to replace the rotor? Plugged in the electrics? Checked for a spark? Certain its lined up properly, checked the rotor is on cylinder 1 at TDC? Ignition problems can be really easy to sort or a real pain, hope yours is the easy kind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 hopefully these will help you check the timing is not way out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Any interesting morning this morning. As per my previous posts, I've successfully removed the distributor, replaced the two rings and stopped the oil leak. I spent quite a bit of time also wiping up some of the oil which had leaked onto various parts in the engine bay. Things look a lot cleaner. When the time came to start the car up, we were confident that we wouldn't have messed up the timing. Ignition was turned, the car turned over but wouldn't fire. Not at all what we were expecting! If something was going to go wrong we expected the timing to be out. We never expected the car to not start at all! We've checked we had plugged everything in and that the rotor arm was in the dizzy cap. Still no life. We are going to try again tonight. I'm confident we have made some stupid error which should be an easy fix. I just can't see what! Did you remember to replace the rotor? Plugged in the electrics? Yes and yes. Certain its lined up properly, checked the rotor is on cylinder 1 at TDC? hopefully these will help you check the timing is not way out Gents: Thanks for this. I've not done stages 1 & 2 of Scooters first picture. If I have reinstalled the distributor before doing stages 1 & 2, do I need to remove the distributor and do 1 & 2 and then reinstall the distributor OR can I just do 1 & 2 leaving the distributor in place? Rider; I assume your comment means the same thing as Scooter's or should the rotor arm be in a set position inside the dizzy cap? Where did you get that original air box from? I bought it from another member on here. I think it really makes a big difference to how the car looks and feels. Next job is to give it a good clean and to replace some of the rusted bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 I would get the cams and crank pulleys in the position shown, then removed the leads to the dizzy, undo the dizzy bolt and as you slide it out check the notches in the dizzy spline area aligns as per the picture, if not make sure it does and refit again aligning the scribe marks you made while tightening it up. With the main marks aligned it should start if it doesn't you can start looking elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Another simple thing to check and that is that the rotor goes around with the engine turning over. Its a different setup on the Supra with a worm gear but I had that happen when I changed my MGB distributor and the flange hadn't fully engaged. No damage can result from this but I then needed to make sure the timing marks were lined up before the distributor was again dropped in to ensure it would fire at the correct time (rotor position to number 1 cylinder) and then finally timing checked when running with a strobe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 You no listen... You should have checked where the rotor arm was pointing at TDC on No. 1 cylinder and marked it all up. Now the rotor arm could be pointing anywhere... You will have to start from scratch. I think Scooter kindly posted the relevant pages of the manual to enable you to do this. I strongly suggest you use a timing light to check everything is spot on afterwards as a double check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 You no listen... You should have checked where the rotor arm was pointing at TDC on No. 1 cylinder and marked it all up. Now the rotor arm could be pointing anywhere.... Evening Chris I do listen but I think people underestimated how poor my knowledge is! People said mark the distributor up and we did. It's perfectly aligned to the marks on the block. I think if you scroll up the thread you'll spot that no one mentioned the words "TDC" or "1 cylinder" till it's gone peat tong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 If you haven't got it running the "trial and error" way with no further dismantling is keep pulling it out, rotating the drive shaft one gear tooth in a given direction, re-inserting it, lining up your scribe marks, crossing fingers and seeing if it starts and sounds Ok. Eventually you will get to where it was when you removed it. RTFM before removing things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Evening Chris I do listen but I think people underestimated how poor my knowledge is! People said mark the distributor up and we did. It's perfectly aligned to the marks on the block. I think if you scroll up the thread you'll spot that no one mentioned the words "TDC" or "1 cylinder" till it's gone peat tong. Next time ask more questions before you commence! The "TDC" and "1 Cylinder" bits aren't 100% necessary if you simply mark, take it out and then slip it back in having 'only' replaced the rubber o ring and not turned the shaft or engine in between. Where imo you've gone wrong is trying to look at a few things at once and also not thinking about each stage and what is the worse case scenario of each action. If when you line up the marks per the pics and remove the dizzy, the match marks on the spline and housing (per the other pic) don't match, then at some point when it was off the head you must have moved/rotated the dizzy shaft? Don't let it put you off no one learns, without making mistakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 (edited) If you are still struggling with this there is a very non technical way to know when your number 1 is at TDC. That is to take the spark plug out and have someone rotate the engine with a socket on the crank and position a finger over the hole you can feel suction or pressure as the piston falls or rises in the cylinder. On its up stroke you can gently place a long screwdriver in the hole and rest it gently on top of the piston. As the crank turns slowly on the ratchet the piston will rise and so will the screwdriver shaft. You'll know when this reaches its maximum lift you are at or very close to TDC. At this point you can offer up the distributor with the rotor facing when the number one cylinder lead on the distributor cap would sit were it in place. There is a link that takes you through spark plug access here http://mkiv.com/techarticles/spark_plugs/na/index.html Its fun really, give it a try but do note the words gently. The last thing you'd want to do is go jabbing screwdrivers into your cylinders or piston crowns. I personally have only used this technique when there were no timing marks visible preferring a pencil with an end rubber to a screwdriver. But I wouldn't recommend that to someone who isn't confident as a broken pencil in the cylinders may be a way to introduce lubricating carbon but its not ideal. Edited January 16, 2017 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 (edited) Evening all I tried again last night using the images Scooter provided. They turned out to be invaluable. I followed the stages in order (we didn't do stages 1 or 2 last time) and replaced the distributor. The car started perfectly the first time. If when you line up the marks per the pics and remove the dizzy, the match marks on the spline and housing don't match, then at some point when it was off the head you must have moved/rotated the dizzy shaft? This will absolutely have been the case. Ignorance on my part meant that it probably wasn't aligned. The fact that it wouldn't start at all totally flummoxed me though. RTFM before removing things I had to google what that meant but it is bloody good advice. Before I can read the fruity manual I need to buy one first. That's my next job! Don't let it put you off no one learns, without making mistakes A very good comment, and one I hope the general reader of this thread will take from it. Whilst it was frustrating to first fail at something, it is great to finally get it right. It might have taken me hours more than competent members on the forum but yesterday I learnt how to remove and correctly replace a distributor, how to replace O rings and that there are actually numbers '0' and '10' (timing marks) on part of the engine. I also learnt that radiator hoses are full of liquid but that's a separate story! Its fun really, give it a try but do note the words gently. The last thing you'd want to do is go jabbing screwdrivers into your cylinders or piston crowns... You're seriously suggesting this to me! I'll continue with other jobs over the next week or 2. I'll post up pictures of what I do etc p.s. A huge thank you to Chris, Rider and Scooter for their continued help as I potter (make a mess) with my car. Edited January 16, 2017 by marbleapple (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Glad its sorted. Bet you swore once or twice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) Hi all Minor update. I had a couple of hours this morning before we went out so I tinkered a little bit. There was a worn sticker on the engine bay on the right hand wheel arch area. It wasn’t legible and looked untidy so I removed it. The bay looks a little tidier. I removed the passenger headlight and replaced the old broken bulb with a new one. Thanks for the help guys. I didn’t appreciate previously that the cable was actually part of the bulb! Annoyingly I'm not convinced the new bulb is working. I didn't have time to check though to see if it was the bulb (cheap eBay ones) or whether the loom was playing up as a consequence of me having swopped the Jap loom for the facelift one when I fitted the facelift indicators. I also took the opportunity to try give the light a little bit of a polish. Its a little bit better but I think I will have to look to get the lights refurbished. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c266/marbleapple/IMG_5014.jpg I also started replacing some of the worn / old bits with the new bits I had bought from Toyota. I started with the radiator clamps. Nice comparison photo below for you all. I think the new clamps look a lot cleaner than the old ones and the bolts are a world of difference. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c266/marbleapple/IMG_5008.jpg First clamp and bolt went on fine. Annoyingly the second snapped! I obviously overtightened. A bit of a learn for me. Don’t over tighten things! I’ve had to order a bolt removal set from Amazon (£6) as I don’t have any way to remove it at the moment. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c266/marbleapple/IMG_5010.jpg I was a little disappointed to find that the bolts I have bought to hold the headlights in were the incorrect size. Does anyone have the part number for the bolts that hold the headlights in place? Photo below. I've also turned my mind some of the other oddities in the car. Does anyone have any idea as to what this power cable could be for? Its set into the centre of the dash. I’d thought about a camera or perhaps a road angel. I like the idea of the camera but ideally I’d like one just to fit the cable already there rather than have to trying to retro fit. Any ideas how I can identify what the cable was for? http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c266/marbleapple/IMG_5016.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c266/marbleapple/IMG_5017.jpg Next Thursday I’m booking the car into the local garage to replace the fluids and the radiator pipes. I’m confident I could do these jobs but don’t have time. I’m meeting with a local detailing company in 2 weeks time and he is also going to introduce me to the bodywork company he uses. I want the boot lid repairing and the bonnet too (spots of rust). Edited January 29, 2017 by marbleapple (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 The headlight nut (not bolt) will be an M6 x 1.0. Most engine bay bolts and nuts are the same size and pitch. No idea what that power lead is to, but I'd remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I removed the passenger headlight and replaced the old broken bulb with a new one. Thanks for the help guys. I didn’t appreciate previously that the cable was actually part of the bulb! Annoyingly I'm not convinced the new bulb is working. I didn't have time to check though to see if it was the bulb (cheap eBay ones) or whether the loom was playing up as a consequence of me having swopped the Jap loom for the facelift one when I fitted the facelift indicators. I've never heard of a headlight bulb and its cable being inseperable. I'm assuming it's an aftermarket bulb (HID? I'm not familiar with what they look like). Also, for the mystery power cable - could it be for an older style phone, before they all moved to USB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) Small weekend update. I managed to get the broken bolt out. I had to remove the headlight to get access to it but it was worth it. A lesson not to overtighten! New radiator clamps now in place. The headlight nut (not bolt) will be an M6 x 1.0. Most engine bay bolts and nuts are the same size and pitch. Thanks for the above advice. I went out and bought some new nuts. I've replaced the old ones holding the headlights with fresh new ones. Comparison pic below. Your thread re 'presents in the post' is what got me started on trying to tidy up the car. My thread is all your fault! Waiting for you to update your thread by the way! I've never heard of a headlight bulb and its cable being inseparable. Its not actually a head light bulb. Its me giving bulbs the wrong name! Pic below. Also, for the mystery power cable - could it be for an older style phone, before they all moved to USB? You're probably right. I was hoping to find a dash cam which would accept the power cable. All of them are usb now though by the look of it. A shame! I have a lot more jobs to do witht he car over the next few weeks. I've decided to get the headlights refurbed and still have a lot of old bits to replace with new. I'm also going to have a go at unbolting and spraying the metal base in the pic below black to fit with the engine bay. The fact it is silver really annoys me. Assume its not a totally stupid idea? Edited February 5, 2017 by marbleapple (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Minor update: I've been tinkering again tonight and fitted a leather handbreak cover. Not bad for £8. I need to do something about the handbrake handle. Any suggestions? I've booked the car in for a full 4 day detail the week before Japfest in April. Hopefully it will look the best it has ever done at Japfest. The detailer has also agreed to photograph the whole process for me so I will have loads of pictures to upload here. Before I get the car detailed I want to get it into the bodyshop to get the rust addressed. I just need to order a boot rubber and then I'm all ready. Also bought myself a new private plate which I saw going cheap on eBay. B8 SUP. Not a bad plate in my opinion. Edited March 10, 2017 by marbleapple (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 I've been tinkering again tonight and fitted a leather handbreak cover. Not bad for £8. I need to do something about the handbreak handle. Any suggestions? Yep, take it out of the car and send it to Hide 'N' Seat and ask them to recover it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 I've been tinkering again tonight and fitted a leather handbreak cover. Not bad for £8. I need to do something about the handbreak handle. Any suggestions? Buy a new one from Toyota Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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