Marbleapple's Supra 'pottering' thread - Winter Tidy Up

[marbleapple]

Afternoon all,

I’ve got the car safely tucked up in the garage for winter and thought I’d spend some time tidying it up ready for the new year. Jobs are:

 

1. replace the aftermarket induction kit with the standard airbox.
   
2. get the small spots of rust removed from the bonnet and boot lid.
   
3. change the brake pads
   
4. clean up the engine bay generally.
   
5. replace some of the worn interior parts.
   

 

 

Id rate my knowledge of mechanics at poor to nil so it is also a good opportunity for me to develop my understanding of engines.

After playing around a little bit this pm I now have a few questions which I’d appreciate some help with!

 

1. Where on earth does the below part fit in the engine pay? I can work out where it links with the airbox but there doesn’t look to be space in the engine bay for the airbox and this part!

 

 

 

2. I spotted some oil which looks to have dripped down from underneath the plastic cap onto the parts below (I think it’s the alternator?). Should I assume the oil has come from around the plastic cap?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. The plastic looks to have snapped. Is it worth getting a new cover? I assume, other than aesthetics it will have no real impact on the engine? Also, . I assume there shouldn’t be a bolt / connector here in the other circled location?

 

 

 

 

 

4. Am I right in thinking the hose looks worn and could do with replacing? Does anyone have a part number from Toyota please?

 

I assume the reservoir bottle could be chromed easily enough?

 

 

 

 

 

5. Does anyone have any recommendations for ways to bring a nice shine to the dull metal parts? I’m tempted to get them chromed!

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance all and sorry for what most of you will think are pretty basic questions!

 

pps - just realised that I have a typo in the title. Apologies. if a mod could tweak it I would appreciate it! Thanks

[Dnk]

The piece that fits to the airbox sits under the headlamp as in the attached photo

 

The plastic cap is the distributor cap or dizzy cap, it could be a leak around the shaft of the distributor where

it fits into the engine, there is an o ring seal. Ive added a diagram and photo

 

Get a new cover or fix with loctite etc

 

I would replace all the hoses as they will all be old and in need of a refresh

 

Chroming is expensive as you'd need a lot of prep on those parts in order to get a good chrome finish

 

Powder coating would be much cheaper and still look pretty good, also easier to keep looking good and

available in lots of colours

 

I would aquablast the aluminium parts which could bring them up nicely depending on their condition

 

If your changing the brake pads get some brake cleaner and clean up the calipers using a soft brush (tooth brush) once the pads are out clean around the outer piston seals and see what state they are in, if original they could well be in need of replacing, also clean and then grease the sliding pins if you have j spec calipers, i'd also change the brake fluid unless its been done in the last 2-3 yrs and replace the rubber OE brake lines for braided at the same time

Edited November 27, 2016 by Dnk (see edit history)

[Scooter]

As Dunk said deffo the oil seal around the shaft of the distributor, it's diy'able (few quid from toyota) but you need to be very careful of marking the position of the distributor so you can replace it and not effect the timing. You might need a timing light to re time it if you are a bit cack handed when doing it.

 

Engine cleaner, tooth brush with a towel underneath to minimise the fluid getting in the spark plug wells, will bring up the aluminium bits a bit, that's where i'd start. Or you could remove the y pipe if you are feeling brave (not a lot to it really but I know what it's like when you are new to it and scared to touch most things!) then you could do the spark plugs and also really have a go at cleaning the intake away from the car?

 

If you are planning on keeping it the top and bottom main rad hoses are worth changing and not too fiddly, just remember to descale/decrud the joins as they often get a build up of deposits over the years. You may as well combine this with a full coolant change if you haven't done one recently, a proper job involves undoing a awkward 14mm bolt under the exhaust manifolds near the back of the block, but this can be ignored IMO if the coolant isn't to bad (rusty/gunky).

[stevie_b]

Good thread, it's refreshing to see someone post this type of thread about an NA. Dnk and Scooter have already given good answers. I would add that AFAIK you can't tell if a hose needs changing from a photo unless it's in really, really bad condition (e.g. split). Things to watch out for are collapsed hoses (can't remember how you test for these, but there should be info all over the internet).

[marbleapple]

Gents,

 

Thanks very much for the responses. I really much appreciate the details you have provided.

 

Airbox

 

Thanks Dnk for the advice re the air box part. I think the mistake I have made is that I still had the headlight in situ. I couldn’t see where it connected. The picture you provided was useful. I shall remove the light and try again!

Engine Cleaning, powdercoating or chroming.

 

Dnk, thanks for the advice re powercoating vs chroming.

 

It’s a black car with chrome wheels; the pitted metal colour just doesn’t look the part. In my warped mind, I thought of trying to keep the bay looking as original as possible but perhaps painting bits black and a few metal bits chrome so as to reflect the outside of the car. I’ll look further into what I can do.

 

I’ll definitely follow Scooter’s idea of just cleaning it to start with though!

 

Scooter, when you say ‘do the spark plugs’ do you mean replace them or clean them? Do you think they will need doing? The car does have a slightly rough idle and there is a lack of acceleration but then I just assumed this was standard for a N/A!!

 

Does anyone have the part numbers for the rad hoses please?

 

Cover

 

I’ll get a new cover. Does anyone have a part number handy? (Edit: Part number 11307 I think!)

 

If I wanted to improve the appearance of the cover aesthetically, can it be painted or would the heat from the engine damage it?

 

I assume hydrodipping might be a stupid idea?

 

Dizzy Cap

 

Thanks all for the advice on this point. I’ll order the part Dnk has set out and go from there.

Edited November 27, 2016 by marbleapple (see edit history)

[mplavery]

Hi mate

 

In my signature box there is a link for my engine bay makeover which might give you some ideas ..

 

Originally I painted most of my turbo pipes to give the OEM fresh look with silver paint from a company called FROST. It's the same paint which is used to to freshen up recondtioned alternators & starter motors etc. I eventually had most parts polished up by Rob. The power steering reservoir I originally polished but was a pain to keep the shine for some reason, it was also a pig to get in there and polish it. I ended up getting a chrome cover of EBay which done the job perfectly. Think or cost about £25 from memory

[Scooter]

 

I’ll definitely follow Scooter’s idea of just cleaning it to start with though!

 

Scooter, when you say ‘do the spark plugs’ do you mean replace them or clean them? Do you think they will need doing? The car does have a slightly rough idle and there is a lack of acceleration but then I just assumed this was standard for a N/A!!

 

 

Re the plugs for an NA they are almost a fit and forget service item, ie they last 40-60K miles. So IF you were removing the y branch intake piece it's the ideal time to do the plugs as it gives you full access to all 6. If you don't know when they were last done then my thinking is you can do them now and that's it for ages. If you do you need to check the wells for debris (air line/hand bike pump etc them out) and possible cam cover oil leaks (it could be the idea time to do these too). That's part of the trouble with a little tinkering and tidying, you find more to do!

 

I understand the position your in though so start with the things you are comfortable with and go from there, no rush whilst everything is working ok. Once that broken plastic cover is off you'll see lead 1, so you could pop this off and shine a torch down to the plug/plug well and see how dirty/oily or fresh things look (you can also do this at the back of the engine under that small 4 hex head plastic cover).

[Dnk]

It might be time to refresh the cap leads and rotor arm if your motor is running rough, there are plenty of

other reasons why but these parts are worth a closer look at the least

 

Take the dizzy cap off and inspect that too, leave the leads on it though and just turn it over once you've undone the screws that hold it to the dizzy body, inspect the rotor arm that sits inside the cap as well

 

Post up some photos if you can

Edited November 28, 2016 by Dnk (see edit history)

[Chris Wilson]

The leak at the disi is the O ring on where it slips into the head casting, I keep these. Scribe the position of the disi body ACCURATELY relative to the head before removing it if you do not have a timing light!! Chroming the PAS reservoir can be fraught with problems if they get blasting or polishing media in it. It has a fine nylon gauze strainer inside that's easily damaged and harbours abrasive material. If you don't get it all out it can be good bye to the PAS rack and pump.

 

I may have a good plastic part for what's cracked. I would need to check.

[marbleapple]

Thanks for the responses guys.

 

Fixing the leak at the disi doesn't sound like something for me to mess about with if I probably need a timing light. I don't even know what one is! - I assume any old car garage should be able to do this though?

 

The car isn't really running rough, I just want to try give it some love over winter. I know Keron gave it a once over before I bought it but I don't imagine he did huge amounts of work on it. I know little about the ownership of the vehicle before I bought it.

 

I'm going to look at the breaks this weekend.

 

I'll get myself a new plastic cover and go from there.

 

I assume its quite easy to take the Y branch intake off? No special tools or a degree in mechanical engineering needed??

 

I don't suppose anyone knows of a decent garage in the Leeds region?

 

mplavery: Thanks for the link. I've seen your cars in the flesh I think. I love your latest one. Stunning.

Edited November 29, 2016 by marbleapple (see edit history)

[marbleapple]

Took the car around to my dads yesterday. Wheels off to check the brake pads. All ok. Plenty of life left in them (which is a nice surprise).

 

Also finished swapping the induction kit / cone back to stock. Much prefer the original look and it *feels* to drive so much better. Whether this is in my head I don't know!

 

Thanks to Scooter I'm going to my local Toyota garage next week to order some new bolts and bits to tidy up the bay a little. Also going to replace the radiator pipes.

 

I'm on the look out for some glass headlights. My plastic ones are a little yellowed. Not prepared to pay the £600 price tag people seem to be demanding at the moment.

 

I couldn't resist a few cheeky photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Annabella]

Nice looking car, check this thread, what I did seems to last a while and costs 1.50p for some tootpaste.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?325788-headlight-cleaning&highlight=cleaning+headlights

[Scooter]

Nice you can do the dizzy, but I understand the reluctance. As Chris says you need to scribe marks (do two then it's easier to realign) across the dizzy and head where it has the adjustable mounting bolt. Then remove the 7 leads (you can label them but I think it's easy to tell after anyway) to the dizzy (and possibly another electric connector - i forget), undo the bolts and gently slide out, carefully remove the worn 'o' ring and carefully refit the new one, carefully slide back into the head, then finger tighten the bolts and carefully align the dizzy body back to your scribed lines, tighten the bolts fully, pop the leads back and job done.

[marbleapple]

Just a small update.

 

I popped to my local Toyota garage this morning with a list of part numbers for bits to tidy up the engine bay. Thanks Scooter for the help with finding part numbers.

 

New rubbers for the distributor, new radiator pipes and all new clips, bolts, new radiator clamps (the metal bits that hold the radiator), a ton of bolt and nuts for various places in the engine bay (I'm wanting to replace the older/ rusted ones).

 

Also bought a new throttle body gasket in case I get brave, remove the Y pipe and try access the spark plugs.

 

£246 in bits in all.

 

I've treated myself to a new auto shifter too (£58). My current one is showing its age. I plan to refresh the interior too whilst trying to keep the interior looking relatively stock.

 

Annoyingly, the timing gear top cover was a lot more expensive than I expected. I couldn't justify the cost. I'll try source a 2nd hand one and perhaps get it hydrodipped black so it looks smart.

 

I've also been messaging Heckler. Years ago he converted my interior green lights in my first Supra to red LEDs. I've commissioned him do the same with this Supra so tomorrow I'll be removing the dash panels.

 

He is also going to provide me with a pcb for a fog light mod since I've realised that the button on the dash isn't actually connected to anything!

 

Going to treat this thread as my mini project thread.

Edited December 10, 2016 by marbleapple (see edit history)

[Dnk]

If your taking the tb and inlet manifold off i'd be changing the cam cover seals at the same time

Edited December 11, 2016 by Dnk (see edit history)

[Degsy]

Guys great thread, i`m new to the forum, in fact this is my first post. I have a 93 model toyota supra 3ltr non turbo import. i removed the distributor to find the rotor arm was damaged and one of the screws that hold it in had come out and damaged the rotor arm. I have ordered a new dizzy cap and rotor arm but require 2 new screws any ideas where i get them from? tried looking on net but no luck.

[Kendo11]

Just a small update.

 

I popped to my local Toyota garage this morning with a list of part numbers for bits to tidy up the engine bay. Thanks Scooter for the help with finding part numbers.

 

New rubbers for the distributor, new radiator pipes and all new clips, bolts, new radiator clamps (the metal bits that hold the radiator), a ton of bolt and nuts for various places in the engine bay (I'm wanting to replace the older/ rusted ones).

 

Also bought a new throttle body gasket in case I get brave, remove the Y pipe and try access the spark plugs.

 

£246 in bits in all.

 

I've treated myself to a new auto shifter too (£58). My current one is showing its age. I plan to refresh the interior too whilst trying to keep the interior looking relatively stock.

 

Annoyingly, the timing gear top cover was a lot more expensive than I expected. I couldn't justify the cost. I'll try source a 2nd hand one and perhaps get it hydrodipped black so it looks smart.

 

I've also been messaging Heckler. Years ago he converted my interior green lights in my first Supra to red LEDs. I've commissioned him do the same with this Supra so tomorrow I'll be removing the dash panels.

 

He is also going to provide me with a pcb for a fog light mod since I've realised that the button on the dash isn't actually connected to anything!

 

Going to treat this thread as my mini project thread.

 

Great advice from Scooter & DNK so far.

 

The cam gaskets and plugs are definitely worth doing if you take everything apart, as are the throttle body gaskets and so on.

 

If you look at my NA thread in my signature there should be a few pages on there where I've got those bits off.

 

It's one of those jobs that is pretty straightforward, just a bit fiddly and takes a bit of time.

 

Make a note of where the vac hoses are connected too.

[marbleapple]

I have ordered a new dizzy cap and rotor arm but require 2 new screws any ideas where i get them from? tried looking on net but no luck.

 

Degsy, Sorry for the delay in replying. Obvious place it Toyota. They can order all the parts you need and will be able to find the exact OEM bit you need. Just pop in at any Toyota garage.

[marbleapple]

Another update on this one.

 

Heckler returned my parts complete with his LED conversion. I spent half an hour today putting the dash back together. A few pictures below.

 

Really recommend Heckler's work. This is the second set I have had from him over the years.

 

I really like the red dash although it is a little bright. Annoyingly I think there is something loose too because the 7-8k bar flickers a little bit on occasion. Not enough to make me take the dash apart again but if / when I tidy up the dash panels I will ask Si to have a look at the speedometer again for me.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 18, 2016 by marbleapple (see edit history)

[marbleapple]

I've yet to have the opportunity to pick up the parts I ordered from Toyota although I had a call this week from them to let me know they have arrived. I plan to replace a lot of the worn bolts and the radiator pipes as suggested. I'll also attempt to replace the rubbers in the dizzy.

 

I may leave the start plugs for the time being; since I got rid of the induction kit for the original airbox, the car seems to drive so much better than it did previously. I suspect the old thing was starving the engine of air perhaps?

 

I've hit another minor stumbling block. I tried to replace the side light bulbs tonight but for the life of me I can't work them out! Can anyone shed any light on how to replace the side light bulbs??

 

I have pre facelift lights with facelift looms (for the face lift indicators). The side light bulb appears to be attached to the light fitting by a cable. When I pulled on the actual bulb, thinking it would slide out of the holder, it didn't, and I realised that the holder is part of the actual light.

 

I bought some of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-BRIGHTEST-T10-CAR-BULBS-LED-ERROR-FREE-CANBUS-15-SMD-WHITE-W5W-501-SIDE-LIGHT-/281930573720?hash=item41a45f2798:g:ZAEAAOSwKOJYKwq3 but I can't figure out how to fit them!

 

 

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]216200[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]216201[/ATTACH]

[Pete]

Follow the cable - IIRC it's a spade connector on the other end. If you buy a replacement you should see it has the same cord like cable attached to the bulb itself.

I think the ones you've bought are the plugin type, I don't think you'll have success with those I'm afraid.

 

Actually...that's an H3 bulb you've pulled out for the fog lights, not the side lights?

Edited December 19, 2016 by Pete (see edit history)

[Kendo11]

Yeah those are definitely Jspec fog light bulbs.

 

Sidelights are the little 501s plugged into the long grey tube thing.

[marbleapple]

Yeah those are definitely Jspec fog light bulbs.

 

Sidelights are the little 501s plugged into the long grey tube thing.

 

Well that's weird.

 

I know what the 501's are but the more I think about it, I don't think they come on.

 

Interior light switch turned half turns the third bulb on (the one furthest away from the centre of the car). Turning the switch fully brings the middle bulb in the headlight on.

 

If I push the light switch, it turns the big bulbs nearest the centre of the car on.

 

Have I managed to mess up the wiring or something?

[marbleapple]

Edit: when I turn the side light on, the third bulb and the 501 come on.

[Kendo11]

Well that's weird.

 

I know what the 501's are but the more I think about it, I don't think they come on.

 

Interior light switch turned half turns the third bulb on (the one furthest away from the centre of the car). Turning the switch fully brings the middle bulb in the headlight on.

 

If I push the light switch, it turns the big bulbs nearest the centre of the car on.

 

Have I managed to mess up the wiring or something?

 

Think you may have done yes.

 

Outer - fog light.

Little 501 - sidelight.

Middle - 'normal' light.

Centre - High/main beam.