dazla100 Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 I've been building my 2jz-ge engine and I have installed 2jz gte forged cp pistons and manley roads and keeping the ge head I've installed a hks 1.2mm head gasket and after installing the cam shafts at tdc I've noticed that when you turn the intake and exhaust cam shaft they stop at a certain point obviously the valves hitting the piston on cylinder 6. Is this normal I always thought the 2jz engines where non interference engines. I've taken a picture to show you at which location the 2 camshafts are at before piston to valve meet the white markers on the cam gears represent the tdc marker. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I carry on my build I'm just paranoid that will cause issues upon start up Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 The standard Pistons have quite deep pockets machined/cast into them to give the valve clearance, what did the forged Pistons topsides look like flat or with similar pockets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazla100 Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 This is a picture of the pistons I have ensured that the deeper valve pocket on the piston is on the intake side due to the ge having big intake valves and small exhaust valves. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Are both sets of GE valves a bigger diameter than their GTE equivalents? Is it possible that the recesses in the GTE pistons aren't machined wide enough to accept the GE valves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazla100 Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 The intake valves are alot bigger than the exhaust valves they seem to sit in the recess fine and don't make any contact outside of that recess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Measure the clearnces physically with soft valve springs, you can swap two out with the head on if you know what you are doing, a good way either side of stock timing at TDC for intake and exhaust strokes, and for both valves. DO NOT guess this...Mixing and matching bits means MEASURE and MEASURE again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Yes mixing different parts calls for a thorough approach, used to do this with bike engines, and found that a small lump of Plasticine or similar was good for assessing valve to piston clearances, but don't forget to factor in expansion rates for when the engine is up to running/WOT temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazla100 Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Am I right in saying the clearence between the valve and the piston is .100" for exhaust and .80 for intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 There's no hard limit, depends on RPM used, rod stretch, piston rock, valve bounce potential, carbon build up, blah blah. If you use Plasticine you'll have to take the head off again. Using a soft spring instead of the normal valve springs on a pair of valves will let you physically measure how much further a valve will open before touching a piston, by using a dial gauge and pressing the bucket down with your finger or a dowel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazla100 Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Thank you chris do you mind to explain on how you take the valve springs out when the head is on so i can replace it with a soft spring and measure it Thank you mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Compressed air down the plug `ole with both valves closed. If you lose air pressure it's good night Vienna. Thin rope pushed down the plug `ole and then the piston brought up near TDC to compact it and hold the valves shut while you compress the spring and remove it. Snap On make a special tool for compressing the spring and catching the collets which is very clever. It reverses to refit the collets. One of my most treasured tools! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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