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Trans coolers


Big Mark

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Without a temp gauge you wont know how well your cooling is working and going by the

info ive found it doesnt take much to halve your boxes life

 

175 Degrees: 100,000+ miles (Normal is typically 179 to 195 degrees)

200 Degrees: 90,000 miles

225 Degrees: 55,000 miles (Pressure Drops)

250 Degrees: 25,000 miles (Valves Stick)

275 Degrees: 17,000 miles (Varnish Forms)

300 Degrees: 4,000 miles (Seals & Clutches Burn)

325 Degrees: TRANSMISSION FAILURE

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I run two oil coolers, one of them open circuit and the other via a Mocal thermostat and have a fluid temp gauge, the actuators are shimmed and I add Lucas SS to the fluid.

 

These tweaks I regard essential for any transmission running more than stock power.

David, can you explain the line "the actuators are shimmed and the lucas ss"?

Without a temp gauge you wont know how well your cooling is working and going by the

info ive found it doesnt take much to halve your boxes life

 

175 Degrees: 100,000+ miles (Normal is typically 179 to 195 degrees)

200 Degrees: 90,000 miles

225 Degrees: 55,000 miles (Pressure Drops)

250 Degrees: 25,000 miles (Valves Stick)

275 Degrees: 17,000 miles (Varnish Forms)

300 Degrees: 4,000 miles (Seals & Clutches Burn)

325 Degrees: TRANSMISSION FAILURE

 

 

 

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Shimming the actuators speeds up the gear-changes and reduces clutch-slip which reduces heat, Lucas SS is an additive that raises the fluid viscosity which raises the fluid-pressure which reduces clutch-slip and reduces heat.

Does this require the at box to be removed, or can this be done in situ? Also the shimming, what clearances are you working to, or are you looking to remove all play?

 

 

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Without a temp gauge you wont know how well your cooling is working and going by the

info ive found it doesnt take much to halve your boxes life

 

175F (80C) Degrees: 100,000+ miles (Normal is typically 179 to 195 degrees)

200F (93C) Degrees: 90,000 miles

225F (107C) Degrees: 55,000 miles (Pressure Drops)

250F (121C) Degrees: 25,000 miles (Valves Stick)

275F (135C) Degrees: 17,000 miles (Varnish Forms)

300F (148C) Degrees: 4,000 miles (Seals & Clutches Burn)

325F (162C) Degrees: TRANSMISSION FAILURE

 

Converted to C.

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I run two oil coolers, one of them open circuit and the other via a Mocal thermostat and have a fluid temp gauge, the actuators are shimmed and I add Lucas SS to the fluid.

 

These tweaks I regard essential for any transmission running more than stock power.

 

 

I forgot to mention that using the sump from a Lexus 5-speed A650E increases fluid capacity by a couple of litres, which helps too.

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I have never seen a new one, but have re-tasked a few, soon there'll be you, me, Delboy52 & J.Meiser trundling about with more juice in our sacks, I can feel a new page brewing for the Transmission Group.

 

The only big sump mod pics I have are from under Delboy52's VVTi V8 Hybrid Transmission Supra, however, these show not how to seal the sump and unfortunately, Mike went to the Jazz1 school of photography.

 

If you could manage any better pics when you fit yours, please let me have copies. Thank you.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=215327&d=1477133440

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=215326&d=1477133440

A650E sump 2.jpg

A650E sump.jpg

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Seller has turned out to be someone over in china pretending to be in the UK and I'm now fed up with trying to decipher emails in bad English, so have told seller to refund my money as it turns out parts not actually sent yet.

 

So, I've found another seller, one that is actually in the UK, do I go for one or two coolers? Will the gearbox be ok to pump the fluid throw two OK?

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