Paul372 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 i'am i right in saying the torque settings for front subframe bolts are 184 N-m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul372 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 R think i've found the torque settings, the set of 2 bolts at the front of the front subframe which have to be torqued upto 125NM and the set of 4 bolts at the back of the front subframe are 200N does that sound correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul372 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Has anyone one got a picture of where all the front subframe bolts are located so i don't miss any please, i've done a search but cannot find anything thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 no pics but from memory............ 19mm socket, extension not needed, cluster of three bolts, furthest back (nearest the rear) the higher torque setting..... 17mm socket, 4-6in extension needed as they are recessed high up in the alloy part of the subframe, one is nearly directly above the steering rack rubber boot (just in front i think) and one further back near the lower suspension arms rear mounting point, lower torque setting on these.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DG3CKO ROB Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 good thread this even if it has been ressurected from the grave I have similar sounding knocking from mine, had it up on the ramp and one of my bushes on the rear anti roll bar is trashed... Also found uneven wear on the inside of that rear tyre! Gonna change the bushes and droplinks at the rear (+two new tyres) and see if that fixes it... if not I'm gonna start checking the subframe bolts. Thanks for the advice, hope everyone ends up with a "quiet" ride in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraLEDrears Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I'm gonna resurrect this post. Did you ever find out what it was? Mines been doing it and we can't find the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Knocks when you go into reverse? Check the exhaust to gearbox bracket. Very common and cheap fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraLEDrears Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Knocks when you go into reverse? Check the exhaust to gearbox bracket. Very common and cheap fix. Nope braking and full lock reversing just like op Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACsupra Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 I had what sounds to be similar symptoms with mine (facelift) I worked my way through various parts, starting with easiest to do and from cheapest first.........having read lots of posts online about people just living with the noise for years, I wasn't (turns out incorrectly)too concerned about failure but, the noise bugged the hell out of me...... so heres what I done to find the problem.... 1: checked and tightened subframe bolts = still the same 2: checked front caliper bolts = still the same 3: changed anti roll bar bushes (super pro) = still the same 4: changed steering bushes (super pro) = still the same 5: changed engine mounts (vibra technics) = still the same 6: changed inner and outer tie rods (battle version) = still the same 7: changed suspension strutts and spring (HSD Mono Pro all round) = still the same 8: changed front upper and lower arms (Figs Engineering, Super Pro version) = found problem, front lower ball joint 9: so impressed with the front items, have now fitted the Figs Engineering rear upper and lower arms, trac and toe arms.............. = car drives like new, if not better than.... As above, mine turned out to be front lower ball joints. Please note that since the knock started, the car has passed two MOT's and been on shaker to see if the problem could be found! Last MOT I specifically asked for them to look for the knock, which was apparent on test drive / brake test...... there was no noticable play in the front arms and other than the noise nothing that they could even advise! Upon removal of the arms, the bottom ball joints had no vertical play but could clearly be seen to stick in one place when rotated around..... guessing the 'clunk' was from the ball joint freeing itself from this position. Would say also that it wasn't apparant but having now replaced the arms / ball joints, the drive is so much more positive........ there was a feeling of the front end being a bit 'flighty' and what I put down to 'tram lining' at the front, since replacing (I know , i've basically changed everything) each item made a 'noticable' difference but, the arms really made a massive difference. Replaced all the rear items after the front became so good that you could feel the 'slop' in the rear items..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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