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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Sill -- Jacking points repair options


Jellybean

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I lasted for 10 years with intact Jacking points but looks like a garage finally crushed them , this is a common problem , rather than just repair and have it easily happen again

 

What are my options, if there are any ? can you get some sort of box section made up ?

 

Some pointers on what to ask a fabricator

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I'm faced with the same problem, although my sills are in a bit of a mess. There was a thread floating around on the forum about the best way to do it. Repair them that is. Once I have repaired them, I will be welding up some inch box section about 6in long either side of the sill to create a jacking point. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

 

 

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I'm faced with the same problem, although my sills are in a bit of a mess. There was a thread floating around on the forum about the best way to do it. Repair them that is. Once I have repaired them, I will be welding up some inch box section about 6in long either side of the sill to create a jacking point. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

 

/QUOTE]

 

That sounds like a cracking idea.

The first time I went to jack up my MX5, I was met with the surprise that the entire sills were filler which had been painted. Needless to say they instantly crunched and I now have some very messy sills :(

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Thanks ! was asking around ; the drift cars suffer with this alot for obvious reasons ; they normally make 3mm shaped box and weld it on so there is a flat strong point to Jack off, does the trick

 

Same as Inazone, will send on the pics to the fab guy and post up the quote

 

Will try see if I can find the Sill Thread , good to get some Idea's

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I see so many cars like this! I wonder what breed of moron decides to jack a car, on the sill, with a trolley jack.

 

They usually breathe through their mouths and have bloody knuckles from dragging them along the ground behind them.

 

I don't think I've ever used the sills to jack my car up but they are a bit of a mess from it's Japanese days. Hopefully I can get it sorted over winter

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I see so many cars like this! I wonder what breed of moron decides to jack a car, on the sill, with a trolley jack.

 

Dont most cars have designated jacking points on the sill..? Like theres a section specifically put in just for jacking and putting stands under? IIRC the workshop manual for my old Focus said to use the sills even with a flat headed trolley jack.

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Does no one else use a sill protector? Much easier than welding on new plates etc

 

In 90% of cases its a garage doing it so out of your control, unless you do all the work yourself.

I always use sill protector if there is an exposed sill when jacking up customers cars (some have rubberised jacking points in place so dont need them).

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Thanks!

 

galvafroid is an actual product LOL

 

Yep, it works wonders :)

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NEVER jack any car under the sills. They just put a bit of reinforcement there to enable a simple roadside wheel change as buyers don't like rolling about on the floor. One of my really pet hates is cars with deformed sill returns and crushed box sections. They are also very time consuming and expensive to repair properly. So only jack under the rear diff casing or under the cast front crossmember if you want pretty sills! ;)

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NEVER jack any car under the sills. They just put a bit of reinforcement there to enable a simple roadside wheel change as buyers don't like rolling about on the floor. One of my really pet hates is cars with deformed sill returns and crushed box sections. They are also very time consuming and expensive to repair properly. So only jack under the rear diff casing or under the cast front crossmember if you want pretty sills! ;)

 

Problem is Chris all you need is one MOT center or Garage idiot to jack her there , one of the mechanics also tried to jack her via the four post lift

 

Going to repair and put in safety net for garage idiots

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Products I was looking at , anybody have recommendation on Qty and Products , some of the products are very expensive, dont want to be left with a huge surplus

 

Car has Schutz under there and has held up very well after all this time

 

INITROL 447 RUBBER BASED BLACK STONE CHIP OR DINITROL 4941 UNDERBODY WAX

 

Prep

Galvafroid Zinc coating 400 0r 800ML ?

DINITROL RC800 RUST CONVERTER 250ml PLASTIC BOTTLE

DINITROL RC900 RUST CONVERTER & PRIMER SPRAY 1 x 400ml AEROSOL

Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover 3.78L (US Gallon)

 

Protect

DINITROL 447 RUBBER BASED BLACK STONE CHIP 1Litre CAN (with Schutz style screw cap)

DINITROL 4941 UNDERBODY WAX (BLACK) 1 Litre CAN (with Schutz style screw cap)

 

I have

 

Zinc 182 and hammerite stone chip with Waxol at home , if these are worth considering

Edited by Jellybean (see edit history)
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So only jack under the rear diff casing or under the cast front crossmember if you want pretty sills! ;)

 

Thats my preferred method, the Factory Scissor jack does have a cut out of it if i remeber correctly to go around the sill flitch (if thats the correct wording???) good as a last but temporary resort...

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Galvafroid is a superb paint on clean bare steel, very nearly as good as hot dip galvanising itself. I have painted steel fence posts and dug them out of damp ground 15 years later and they have been perfect. Beware of what paint you put on top of it though, to avoid odd reactions, and use the proper thinners if thinning it. On race cars they weld stout tubes into all three sill sections and leave them sticking out a bit to sit on axle stands, or to use as quick access jacking points. Sometimes they have custom stands with pegs that go into the ID of flush fit tubes, they are very neat. But air jacks are still king and once you have had a car with them nothing else is as convenient. You'll pay a LOT of money for ones to lift a full weight Supra though, and fitting them is far from trivial, it's usually done at the same time as a full weld in cage is added.

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Just as an FYI

 

Galvafroid should not be used on surfaces treated with

phosphoric acid based rust removers.

 

Galvafroid should not be overcoated with materials

containing strong solvents such as chlorinated and aromatic

hydrocarbons, esters and ethers.

 

DINITROL RC 800

 

DINITROL RC 800 is a co-polymer latex combined with organic agents designed for application to corroded ferrous substrates. DINITROL RC 800 actively converts the rust present on the substrate into a stable organic iron complex. As the polymer dries it forms an impermeable barrier to oxygen and moisture effectively sealing out any further corrosion. DINITROL RC 800 has an extremely low order of toxicity and does not contain phosphoric acid or lead.

 

DINITROL 447 Stone Chip Protect Super contains no aggressive solvents such as chlorinated hydrocarbons (CFC/CHC), esters and ketones.

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It's not easy mate. I spent at least 3 hours straightening out mine a month back, they were FUBAR'd. I used a small adjustable wrench which is great as you can clamp down on the sil and then apply great, great force to move it back into place. Normal pliers or the like wont help at all

 

It takes a lot of manoeuvring and patience. I cleaned off any rust/gunk with a wire brush and then used black Hammerite direct to metal.

 

Mine are by no means perfect but they're a lot better now and it doesn't look like the car has been budgeted every time !

 

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Greg

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