marbleapple Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Evening all I'm trying to replace my old registration plates but the screws holding them in appear to be 'stuck' in place (I assume rusted) and the screw holes have also been rounded. Before I drill out the screws is there anything I need to be aware of? Does anyone have any bright ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 can you cut off the plastic cap and grip the screw with a plyers. id stick the new ones on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Sadly there isn't any plastic caps. That's probably why it's gone rusty. I've tried pliers, mole grips and plenty of wd40. There is a big void behind the plate so I'm not sure I can stick the new one on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitch79 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Have the rough twits just shot a self tapper through it like? Rather that use the m6 holes on the mounting plate behind (assuming rear plate) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Can you just cut a slot in the head with a Dremel and use a flat bladed screwdriver? I've done that in the past on several occasions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Can you just cut a slot in the head with a Dremel and use a flat bladed screwdriver? I've done that in the past on several occasions. That's what I will probably try tomorrow. Sadly I'm not as big as you so might struggle! I was just wanting to make sure there wasn't anything I'm missing I.e there isn't a particular way to remove the plates, before I used brute force. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 once it is off , cut two strips about 2 inches wide and slightly smaller than the hole then get some strong glue and stick it on the inside of the the whole, so an inch is visible, now you only got the thickness of the plastic to build up to stcick the new one to thats what i did years ago and its still there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc92 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Penetrating fluid is always good if you can get to where the threads are screwed into. I often use Plusgas on completely rusted fasteners and it works a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 When I once had self tappers stuck with no head on a number plate, many years ago, I ripped the old plate off which left the screw heads raised. Flattened opposite sides with a file and used a small spanner which removed them easily. No tidly spanners then a pair of electrical pliers or grips should do nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Thanks for the responses guys. I think they are screws but they have been rounded off. Someone has obviously tried to remove them before me and made a mess of it. I'm going to try using a Dremel tonight to cut into the head to try use a flat bladed screwdriver. If I can't get it to budge with the screw driver then I might have to drill the head. Never heard of plusgas but might try get some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Sacrifice the plate as rider suggests so you can get at the screws' outside diameters with grips. Use plastic or stainless replacements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Good advice. I'm replacing the plates so breaking the old one doesn't matter too much. Just apply brute force or cut them off some how? - I don't want to bend or break the bracket / bar behind the plate. Thanks for all the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Good advice. I'm replacing the plates so breaking the old one doesn't matter too much. Just apply brute force or cut them off some how? - I don't want to bend or break the bracket / bar behind the plate. Thanks for all the help guys. Brute force, the plate will naturally break where the hole has been drilled or tapped for the screws as that's where it'll bend. Two shreddies and go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 A near red hot old knife blade would probably cut the number plate around the screws so you can pull it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraP-Z Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I had a similar problem, i cut a slit on the screw head large enough to house a big flat screwdriver - but i couldnt budge it. Got myself a Hex Bolster Screwdriver and used a long spanner to turn anti clockwise while i applied pressure from the handle of the screwdriver, eventually it came out. Plusgas is really good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) Well I managed to get the screws removed today. Drilled them out. All it needed was a special tool called a 'father'. Quite a handy tool. All it cost me was 2 cups of tea and a lecture on the state of my drive. On the plus side it also cut my front lawn whilst I was at work! I am left with a slight oddity. The screws we removed were in fact bolts. The holes that remain appear to be original bolt holes. It is normal that plates on jap spec imports are held in my bolts? The bolts are larger than the usual uk screws that hold plates and are covered by plastic caps. I assume Halfords would be the place to start for larger than normal plastic caps to go over the bolt heads? Pic of the rear bolt holes. Half broken bolt and an identical new bolt that I had laying about in my supra spares box. For those that are interested, the head of the bolt is 1cm wide. Edited September 5, 2016 by marbleapple (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitch79 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) It's a 6mm hole bud. Clean it up, get hold of a 6mm tap and run it through the hole. Then, either trust them plastic yellow plate screws. Or use stainless M6 - never rust again [emoji1360] I used some yellow acrylic paint to match it yellow. Edited September 5, 2016 by kitch79 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 What a great rear... So you just use paint? Fair enough! I just assumed I was missing something! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitch79 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Yeah I had some from a tamiya supra model left over. I tried a plastic thing, one went in fine the other just sheered off before getting tight. (Didn't have a 6mm tap to run through) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin turbo Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) In my case i used a dremel on those difficult hatchback rubber screws and put a big flat screwdriver on,came right of guess vibration and heat also helped a lot. Edited September 9, 2016 by Twin turbo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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