Big Mark Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Going to relocate my battery to the boot and have a couple of questions. Will this (link) cable be suitable? Can I run the cable directly from the battery in the boot, via a breaker near the battery, to the starter motor and then use another short length from starter motor to fuse box? Thereby eliminating the need for a distribution/junction box under the bonnet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 There's some junk cable about, and as it doesn't say pure copper conductors it probably *IS* junk. many use copper plated alloy or steel conductors. But if it *IS* pure copper it should work, as will the way you suggest wiring it. Get someone with a *PROPER* cable crimping tool to crimp *PROPER* high Amp capable crimps on it for you. I wouldn't bother with a breaker, the less switches and terminations in the main battery lead the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 May be worth having a look here Mark http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/1030/battery-starter-cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) I had a night mare with battery issues after relocating. You must not use anything less than 415 amp. I used this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111236722625?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And if need them you need 70mm2 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261880862916?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Edited September 4, 2016 by a98pmalcolm (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 I think I saw something about the problems you were having, hence my post. Following your advice I've upped the diameter to 60mm2 and am awaiting for the seller of this (link) to confirm that it is 100% copper and not copper coated. Also, how did you connect things up under the bonnet. I know some that used a distribution box but I'm thinking of just running the cable from the battery straight to the fusebox and then a cable from there to the alternator, or vica versa. No distribution box needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Get someone with a *PROPER* cable crimping tool to crimp *PROPER* high Amp capable crimps on it for you. I wouldn't bother with a breaker, the less switches and terminations in the main battery lead the better. Crimper sorted, as mate has one he uses on his racing cars wiring. Regarding no breaker or fuse, is that safe? I thought you're always supposed to put a fuse or breaker within a foot of the battery for any cable runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 I think I saw something about the problems you were having, hence my post. Following your advice I've upped the diameter to 60mm2 and am awaiting for the seller of this (link) to confirm that it is 100% copper and not copper coated. Also, how did you connect things up under the bonnet. I know some that used a distribution box but I'm thinking of just running the cable from the battery straight to the fusebox and then a cable from there to the alternator, or vica versa. No distribution box needed. I used a distribution box then I could have other thing going into it like my headed wind screen, rad fans ect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 How is the heated windscreen? I had one on a ford years ago and it was great. Do you have a separate switch or does it just share the rear screen switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 How is the heated windscreen? I had one on a ford years ago and it was great. Do you have a separate switch or does it just share the rear screen switch? Its was 1 of 10 from Whifbitz, I used a front spoiler switch and converted it to turn the heated wind screen on and off using windscreen icons ect.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Get battery cable from a BMW or Mercedes in a breakers! They have relocated the battery to the boot from factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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