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R33 Skyline GTST


Jellybean

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Hi

 

My Friend has a R33 Skyline GTST , engine is rebuilt to 700hp but it is still running on OEM tubbie, OEM cams with a Link G4 ECU and trigger delete

 

He is having terrible issues with the car , overfueling , lumpy idle , car broke down 3 times leaving him stranded on the side of the road , reason was everything from Alarm to Radio fuse ; car is not running good at all since the install of the ECU in November last year , his wideband lambda is now gone after 3000KM ;

 

I find the oil a hard one to believe , on a recent track day hottest the oil(Millers NanoDrive CFS 10w50 - freshly changed) got was 110c when hammering it. cooled down quickly on cool down laps back down to 90c ish

 

  • Anybody know what oil Chris Wilson is running, he has a track only GTST?Based on my car , 2JZ head "Looks like New" is what I was told when I had my cams installed, I cannot see 10W50 oil being an issue at 110, a good synthetic branded 5w-40s are fine up to 130C
  • I dont believe this is down to the ECU? Is anybody running their car reliably using a Link?

 

 

 

 

Updates from the Tuner

 

Update 1

 

HI

 

After some extensive testing we have sorted a few issues but others remain.

 

We could not find the std dump valve in the boost so we have it blocked for testing.

 

There was a bad miss on load that we could find and repeat. This was fixed by new spark plugs. ( The spark plugs showed signs of some contaminated fuel at some stage in the past )

 

The Lambda sensor is going into fail mode after 30 mins of running also. This is probably form contaminated fuel they normally last years in this power install. ( This will need replacing but we dont keep that model in stock so it will take 3 days to get one )

 

The VVT sprocket is doing some very weird things when the oil is over 80deg c. It now nee to be changed. I have some arriving here tomorrow to try.

 

I suggests we try and fix all the issues now so we wont have the reoccurring intermittent faults ?

 

Update 2

 

HI

 

We are doing some investigating as we striped the timing belt off to change the VVT pulley to find that the inlet cam is very stiff in the head. We found No6 Inlet cam cap to have picked up form poor oil film protection probably on the last track day. The oil you are using now is not doing the Job it should and dose not protect the engine the same as the Mobil 1 we advise. You are lucky the cam did not totally seize and snap off and ruin the engine. We will polish up the cap and cam and they will be fine.

 

We will then fit the vvt sprocket and re assemble the front of the engien.

 

Update 3

 

he opened up the rocker covers to get at the vvt pulley to replace it, and spotted zero oil in the head, not even a film

He polished the cap and cam all up and now can turn the cam manually where as before he couldnt

 

He said the nanodrive oil is so good that it litterly slips off the parts on the top of the engine and drains back offering little or no cold start ; says mobil1 coats the parts better and doesn't drain as quick

Edited by Jellybean
OEM cams not aftermarket, update 3 (see edit history)
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OEM turbos and 700hp? Is he running rocket fuel? Stock RB26 turbos can only take about 1bar can they not?

 

I've only ever heard good things about Link ECU's, could be a whole host of things with the amount that seems to have gone wrong :(

 

If you read it again I said the Engine is rebuilt to 700hp , I never said it is running 700hp

 

I heard 2j links having issues with processing the trigger signal , the ECU cannot process it quick enough but based on its spec , all ECU's are near on par so I call BS but I am still yet to see a daily car running one reliably

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Guest Budz86

Yep, stock gtst turbo will only take around 1 bar. Quite common for hybrids to be fitted though, which will take more. No way it makes 700 with the stock turbo, it would need a larger one and a top mount exhaust mani due to space in the bay.

 

Has this been built by Bells Autos or whatever they're calling themselves these days? I have heard a lot about their mapping ability from most of my mates (poor buggers all own R33s!) and let's say I'd rather get it mapped by a blind monkey!

 

 

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I use whatever is good value, branded full synthetic at the time. It probably has Sachs or Valvoline in it. It isn't a GTS-t engine though, it's a full on all steel RB26, ported stock manifolds, Garrett ball bearing turbos. I change the oil every 6 months or every 5 track days, whatever comes first. I keep it under 550 flywheel BHP on super unleaded. Has the GTS-t engine always been a GTS-t? If it's on a GTR block it may have an oil restrictor in the top of the block and the hydraulic tappet GTS-t head with variable valve timing will be starved of oil....

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Thanks Chris , GTS-t engine always was a GTS-t

 

1997 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T Series 2

 

Engine

ACL Big-End Bearings

ACL Main Bearings

Blueprint Oil Sandwich Plate

Cosworth Steel Head Gasket

OEM CAT

HKS Silent Hi-Power Cat Back Exhaust

HKS Stainless Steel Downpipe

HKS Super Power Flow Reloaded Filter

K&N Gold Oil Filter

Mishimoto Alu Rad

NGK BKR7EIX Spark Plugs - 0.8mm Gap

Nismo 250LPH Fuel Pump

Nismo Low Temp Thermostat

Nissan Genuine OEM N1 Oil Pump(TDP.ie Reconditioned)

Nissan Genuine OEM N1 Water Pump

Nissan Genuine OEM O2 Sensor

Nissan Genuine OEM RB26 Heat Exchanger

SplitFire Direct Ignition System Coil Packs

aftermarket FMIC Core

Wossner 86.5mm Forged Pistons

Link G4 with CAS trigger Delete kit

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The Nismo low temp `stat is TOTALLY unsuitable for a road car engine and most race car engines, the thing wil never warm up properly, especially with a big rad. plus for 700 BHP it needs steel rods, much bigger injectors, a compression drop, that the pistons may or may not achieve, and some cams. For sure that `stat MUST go!!

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Right, the other very common issue with the GTS-t is sludge in the oil feed up the block to the head. it sounds as if it's blocked up. Head off unless you want to try 80% ATF, 20% engine oil mix, a proper stat and let it idle for a few hours, no load, no high revs. it will often clear it as ATF is very detergent. There's probably an element of risk to this, your friend's call...Get the oil as hot as possible, blank off the cooler. Choose a hot day, or put a workshop heater blowing on the sump. Don't set it ablaze...

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Ask him if the hydraulic tappets are a bit / very noisy. That's a give-away for a blocked head oil feed.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

But everything falls on deaf ears, I explained why a low temp stat is unsuitable

He says the car sounds fine , and the car runs good with the Nismo stat , more interested in his spec list on the interweb;

Car is constantly breaking down, over fueling , issues with TPS, VVT,MAF , fuel pumps, spark plugs , lambda sensors, exhaust gaskets blowing , boost leaks, BOV's leaking you name it , majority happened again this year! Re-occurring theme , each month

 

if he is happy with an oil change to fix the issue then you just have to sit back and watch , crack open a cold one ;)

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