Axle Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Those with some kind of experience with bigger brake setups, which 356mm Setup have you found to be the best? Opinions welcome too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_bandido Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Lee of SRD fame recommended the ksport front and back kit to me a few weeks ago. Said the callipers are monoblocks of good quality now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassan Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 (edited) Lexus LS600/460 brakes. The fronts are 358mm 4pots MonoBlocks and rear are 335mm 2pot MonoBlocks. Absolutely amazing brakes. I have them as standard on my Lexus LS460 Sports but ive also just bought another set from japan for my Aristo MK2. On the other hand ive used a full KSport setup too. 356mm 8pots front and 330mm 6pots rears and they were very good too. Very litte fade and pull your face off stopping power. But the calipers weren't monoblock. Edited August 16, 2016 by Hassan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_bandido Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 But the calipers weren't monoblock. This changed about 2 years ago, see here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 UK FTW But in all seriousness, AP Racing or Brembo GTR setup surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassan Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 This changed about 2 years ago, see here Yeah i seen that. They look great. I really liked the Ksport better that UK spec set up imo. Thats why ive gone for the Lexus LS600 setup since its OEM reliability and build quality plus they are huge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Does anyone know the difference in hub to caliper clearance between K-Sport and UK spec brakes? My wheels foul the UK calipers so I have to run a 3mm spacer to clear them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzzyuzzy Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Those with some kind of experience with bigger brake setups, which 356mm Setup have you found to be the best? Opinions welcome too. I have the Greddy Big Brake Kit^6 pot fronts & 4 pot Rears, the front discs are 355mm. Very good brakes but looking back the high price is only cause of the brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I run the Brembo mono 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears, not cheap, but good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I have the Greddy Big Brake Kit^6 pot fronts & 4 pot Rears, the front discs are 355mm. Very good brakes but looking back the high price is only cause of the brand. The big price is because they are made by Alcon, which are among the best of the brake manufacturers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I have a full set of Alcon brakes on my car. They are quite impressive. Worth reading this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axle Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Link does not work. I ordered Stop Tech originally. The 'Trophy' but had issues with delivery so now looking at possibly these Brembo's http://www.larkspeed.com/shopper/i/37GT8019A/Toyota-Supra-Brembo-Front-Brake-Conversion-Kit-6-Pot-Calipers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Some detail from Chris , Alcon, Ap Racing and Brembo are considered the top brands http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?318433-Best-brake-upgrade-for-a-Supra/page2&highlight=Brembo+brakes Brake upgrades can set out to try to achieve several objectives. The commonest are to increase resistance to fade and or increase braking effort for a given pedal effort. IE, the pads are pushed against the discs harder for a given pedal effort than before the upgrade, or the brakes will stop the car from 100 MPH, hard, for more times before fade sets in, than previously. The feel from the pedal, that almost intangible quality, can also be addressed and sometimes improved upon by brake size, or pad material changes, or brake flexi hose upgrades to something less squashy than rubber. It's easy to get carried away by the thought of brake upgrades. The limitation in most cars as to how short a distance they can stop in is tyre friction. Leaving aside pedal feedback, and fade, it is almost certain that a Supra on stock Jap spec brakes will stop in just as short a distance as one with an AP six pot kit on it, a Brembo kit, Pauls KAD kit, or whatever. It may not feel to the driver that it does, but usually such is the case if you just nail the pedal as hard as you can. The fancy kits may *FEEL* to stop the car faster, due to less pedal effort, and a better bite, but in reality, if you hit the pedal as hard as you can with stock Jap spec brakes, UK spec brakes, AP kit, KAD, whatever, the car will stop in the same distance. Repeat this test 10 times and stock Jap brakes may be on fire and long since faded, or the fluid boiled, UK ones may be very hot and bothered, but the upgraded ones will probably still be working within pad, disc and brake fluid temp limits. Add in the intangible "feel" factor, and a desire to brake as hard as possible, using as little skill as possible, but WITHOUT relying on the ABS to take over, and for sure a well set up brake upgrade may well allow more finesse. Herein though lies the rub. Upgrade only the fronts and the brake balance of the stock car may well be compromised. Let's take stock brakes. You press smoothly on the brake pedal with (say) 50 pounds force. The car stops fine. 70 pounds, the fronts are just beginning to lock (car makers ALWAYS aim for the fronts to lock first, as rear wheel lock makes the car very unstable and liable to swap ends). The rears are doing as much work as the brake engineers deemed safe to prevent premature rear lock up. The ABS cuts in, and maximum retardation has been reached. Now, take a car with big front discs and calipers. Only 40 pounds pressure now gives a smooth, lock free and powerful retardation. 50 pounds and the new, more powerful, (for the same pedal pressure), fronts are locking. The ABS cuts in. BUT, and this is the crux, those original rear calipers and discs are still well below the caliper pressure where they are able to achieve maximum retardation without fear of the rears locking. In other words the FRONT brakes are doing TOO MUCH work, albeit without breaking into a sweat, and the rears are, to exaggerate a bit, just along for the ride. The BEST scenario is to upgrade front AND rear brakes, carefully ensuring the original balance of effort at any given brake pedal pressure remains as designed, but that the more efficient front AND rear brakes stay cooler for more hard stops, and that old intangible "feel" from the brake pedal is improved, at lower rates of driver effort on the pedal. The latter may or may not be good or desirable, and can be engineered out by changing BOTH front and rear caliper piston sizes, or pad areas. In a race car the balance would be adjustable via 2 brake master cylinders, with a driver selectable change in mechanical leverage effort between front and rear brake circuits, one cylinder operating the front brake calipers, the other the rear. This can also be achieved on road cars, but to do so is usually complex and expensive, especially if ABS and brake circuit failure safeguards are to be maintained. It is far easier to calculate the caliper and disc sizes, along with pad area and compound to achieve this, as near as available off the shelf equipment will allow. Caveat. I said before makers engineer more effort on the front brakes to encourage straight line stopping if the tyres are locked up . They err on the excessive side, as, in the wet, the rear tyres can take a lot more braking effort than in the dry, due to less weight transfer onto the front tyres, as they will lock before as much weight is transferred when the grip of the road surface is reduced. So adding yet more front brake effort worsens this existing imbalance, especially in the wet. If it were not for the ABS the front wheels would be locking up very early. On the Supra a relatively sophisticated ABS allows some effort to be taken off JUST the fronts, and an artificial and very inefficient balance is returned. On cars with lesser (1 or 2 channel) ABS, or no ABS at all, a brake upgrade on just one end of the car can be lethal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Some good info here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?225007-Big-Brake-Kits-Real-Numbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Some good info here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?225007-Big-Brake-Kits-Real-Numbers Sorry. This is thread I was referring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axle Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Thanks Lads. That thread is certainly an interesting read. Cheers Nic / Mwilkinson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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