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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

A/C not cooling


Samurai 20V

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Hi guys.

 

Having some issues with the Supra A/C.

 

In April this year, I have replaced the expansion valve, receiver dryer and of course regased it as well.

Cleaned the evaporator as well, looked in decent shape.

It was working perfectly, no issues at all.

 

I haven't used the car that much since then, the A/C is now not cooling.

The compressor kicks in when its switched on.

The diagnostic check reads normal.

 

On the inspection of the site glass, I think the system may be overcharged. The sight glass goes clear when switched off, doesn't really foam.

(will upload a video just now)

 

So my next step is to get it regassed and make sure it has the right amount of gas.

 

Am I on the right track here or should I be checking something else?

 

Thanks in advance.

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the machine that my local indy has does a full system check, pressure and leak check before clearing out the system and then a refill, takes about 40mins to do end to end.

Unless you've grabbed a cheap 'di it yourself canister' then you should never be over overcharged.

 

FYI it is a criminal offence to vent this gas into the atmosphere (n the UK anyway) so I wouldn't think you can drop the pressure yourself, and it isn't the sort of stuff you want anywhere near your lungs.

 

If it were me, take it to a garage and let the recharge systems sort it out.

 

Best of luck with it.

Edited by Mad Hatter (see edit history)
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FYI it is a criminal offence to vent this gas into the atmosphere (n the UK anyway) so I wouldn't think you can drop the pressure yourself, and it isn't the sort of stuff you want anywhere near your lungs.

.

 

The guy who invented CFCs demonstrated how inert they were by drinking the stuff. HFC's, such as R134a is similarly inert so it be an issue breathing it in the same way it would be to breath carbon dioxide or nitrogen.

 

As for the OP issues you need to get some gauges on your service ports to check the pressures are good and true. With everything off you should have a pressure across the system of around 50 to 70 psi (ambient dependent). Then with the compressor running you should be pushing out around 200 to 220 psi out of the compressor on the high pressure side and around 15 psi on the suction low pressure side. If the pressures are fine then the system should be running fine so I'd suspect your temperature sensor/control. Does your control do hot/cold without a/c on?

 

The sight glass is fine. It should be clear on standing (no liquid) and foam when the compressor starts up and run clear after around 30 seconds running. So I'd veer towards your temperature control failing.

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ok chemist .. I was just repeating what my indy told me when asking me why my system was empty. Inert yes, but a tad cold on release one would think ... it is still illegal to vent it but enjoy your pipe sucking fella.

some safety tips before you hurt yourself. http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg349.pdf

Edited by Mad Hatter (see edit history)
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ok chemist .. Inert yes, but a tad cold on release one would think

 

As would liquid nitrogen if you sloshed it around. Refrigerant only cools when it changes from liquid to gas and takes energy (heat) from its environment. That's how the evaporator on an a/c system works after all. So removing refrigerant in its gaseous state from a standing system would be unlikely to generate any cooling.

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The guy who invented CFCs demonstrated how inert they were by drinking the stuff. HFC's, such as R134a is similarly inert so it be an issue breathing it in the same way it would be to breath carbon dioxide or nitrogen.

 

As for the OP issues you need to get some gauges on your service ports to check the pressures are good and true. With everything off you should have a pressure across the system of around 50 to 70 psi (ambient dependent). Then with the compressor running you should be pushing out around 200 to 220 psi out of the compressor on the high pressure side and around 15 psi on the suction low pressure side. If the pressures are fine then the system should be running fine so I'd suspect your temperature sensor/control. Does your control do hot/cold without a/c on?

 

The sight glass is fine. It should be clear on standing (no liquid) and foam when the compressor starts up and run clear after around 30 seconds running. So I'd veer towards your temperature control failing.

 

 

Thanks mate.

 

Will check the control with the A/c off.

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Ok, the temperature control seems to be working, with the A/C off the heater is blowing hot air. Turn it back down, blows cool air..

 

Here is a video of the sight glass.. To me, it doesn't seem like its foaming and then going clear, its going clear immediatly.

 

Will take it to a dealership to check it out.

 

image

Edited by Samurai 20V (see edit history)
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Your sight glass is showing the a/c system is working just fine. The compressor is compressing and the condenser is condensing. Worth a read and where I think your problem likely lies.

 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-ambient-temperature-sensor-switch

 

and this

 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-evaporator-temperature-sensor-switch

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Your sight glass is showing the a/c system is working just fine. The compressor is compressing and the condenser is condensing. Worth a read and where I think your problem likely lies.

 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-ambient-temperature-sensor-switch

 

and this

 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-evaporator-temperature-sensor-switch

 

Thanks mate, will check these out..

 

Appreciate your help.

 

After 22 years, I guess these type of issues will crop up.

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