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What's else is needed


TT Paul

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Looking to up the bhp but just seeing what would be needed in supporting mods and possible engine work. After speaking to different people just want to get a short list of parts and work that would need doing to the engine. Plenty of you guys have done it just after some advice

 

Spec

Hks twins

1000cc injectors

Engine oil cooler

Uprated radiator

450lph fuel pump

Aem v.2 ecu

Stock intake

4 inch fmic

Iridium spark plugs

Stock fuel line

Fpr.

 

 

 

As far as I know it's a stock block and internals. Running 550fwhp looking for 600bhp to 700bhp [emoji4]

 

 

 

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And what changes internaly or just a remap.?

 

/QUOTE]

 

Standard internals are good for 750bhp with a healthy engine.

 

Although if your on stock cams you'll struggle to get past 700bhp I'd imagine.

 

If you can afford it, I'd recommend some 264 cams to improve top end power. Well worth it I must admit.

 

Your still on the stock auto though arent you?

 

If I were you, I'd get it remapped in its current spec and see what it makes, then go from there.

Edited by Chris Bailey (see edit history)
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So a remap with twin fuel pumps to start.

Maybe cams or a built head later.

 

Cool thanks for the help guys.

 

 

/QUOTE]

I can recommend the BC 264 cams along with BC dual valve springs, wind the boost up. Should see you really nice gains!

 

Lord Voldemort for the BC stuff ;)

 

 

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Seems that a worked heads in order.

 

/QUOTE]

From my recent experience of an engine with 130k on it, i needed all new valve guides and 17 new valves.... although there were some other mitigating factors with mine but the springs etc are definitely worth doing if you want to go with cams

 

 

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Why do you need a built head? That's just wasting money in my opinion, especially if your goals are between 600-700bhp? Just fit a set of 264 cams which you can run with the stock valve springs. Valve springs are a bonus, but you can set the rev limit to 7250-7400-rpm on the stock valve springs.

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Why do you need a built head? That's just wasting money in my opinion, especially if your goals are between 600-700bhp? Just fit a set of 264 cams which you can run with the stock valve springs.

I found with my car that the cams and a slightly higher rev limit resulted in my 17 bent valves. Not like banana but bent enough that they would show on a clock gauge and they weren't sealing worth a damn.

 

Im no expert but the guy who rebuilt my engine is and thats what he told me about it. Couldnt do any harm i suppose to refresh the head at least at the age they are now. Apparently my valve guides were rattling about and that was down to age apparently. .....

 

 

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I found with my car that the cams and a slightly higher rev limit resulted in my 17 bent valves. Not like banana but bent enough that they would show on a clock gauge and they weren't sealing worth a damn.

 

Im no expert but the guy who rebuilt my engine is and thats what he told me about it. Couldnt do any harm i suppose to refresh the head at least at the age they are now. Apparently my valve guides were rattling about and that was down to age apparently. .....

 

/QUOTE]

 

What was your rev limit?

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Guest Budz86

Twin pumps would be a good idea but you'll be fine on stock lines I'd think if you're trying to keep the budget down. Cams would be a better and more noticeable mod (264s would work a treat) but if your head isn't in good nick, you could be opening a can of worms by touching it. By that I mean being forced to go down the refresh route when I don't think that's your plan at this stage.

 

Best idea before you start is get a compression and leak down test done to see the state of the block and head, that way you'll know if you're likely to run into any unforseen expense!

 

You could always consider ethanol, but that's a whole different ball game! ;)

 

 

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Twin pumps would be a good idea but you'll be fine on stock lines I'd think if you're trying to keep the budget down. Cams would be a better and more noticeable mod (264s would work a treat) but if your head isn't in good nick, you could be opening a can of worms by touching it. By that I mean being forced to go down the refresh route when I don't think that's your plan at this stage.

 

Best idea before you start is get a compression and leak down test done to see the state of the block and head, that way you'll know if you're likely to run into any unforseen expense!

 

You could always consider ethanol, but that's a whole different ball game! ;)

 

/QUOTE]

Cool thanks for that gives me a few bits to check. Plenty of help thanks for all the input from everyone.

 

 

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