JordanC Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Hello gents, I've been putting this job off long enough so time to get my backside into gear this weekend and get it done. I don't have a tool to lock the crank pulley or the means to make one so was planning on using the starter method to save me taking the rad etc out. My issue is that I'm having to do this work just outside my house on the public road which usually wouldn't be a problem but my road has a slight slope to it. Rather than being uphill or downhill, the road kinda slopes right to left, where the pavement of the houses opposite me are slightly lower than mine. Can I do this job without having to raise or jack the car at all? Can I do it with the engine undertray intact or does this definitely have to be removed to allow me to use the starter method without breaking anything? I've already dodged one bullet when the outer ring of the pulley let go at speed and did no damage to anything else and just sat resting at the bottom of the undertray. Any advice would be much appreciated, been racking my brain about this as I feel it's risky to put the car up on stands considering the slope. I can worry about tightening the pulley bolt up another time but I atleast want to get the old pulley off. Also, how do I get the aux belt off? Is there a tensioner and where is it? Cheers, Jordan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 You will need to jack car to take undertray off, after that you can have the supra off the jacks for the starter trick. Other alternative is, if your breaker bar is of the right size, you can wedge it under the chassis on driverside, but obviously make sure you put some rags around the bar so it doesn't mark anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Ok you can probably get the tray off without fully lifting the car on axle stands, the car chassis will lift quite a bit with the tyre still on the road, only the very central rear most bolts will give you issues I'd of thought? If it's drivable then just put two wheels up the curb and turn it round if necessary to get to all the bolts? The aux belt tensioner is above the crank pulley, you get a 14mm spanner on the centre bolt, horizontal and pointing towards the battery and then pushing down on it will release the tension on the belt, with it held down release the belt off the pulley and slowly let the tensioner come back up. It can take quite a bit of pressure some make sure the spanner is as close to horizontal (or below ie slightly pointing down) as you can and possibly have a foam pad over it to spread the load on your hand. How are you planning on getting the pulley off once the nut in undone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Ok you can probably get the tray off without fully lifting the car on axle stands, the car chassis will lift quite a bit with the tyre still on the road, only the very central rear most bolts will give you issues I'd of thought? If it's drivable then just put two wheels up the curb and turn it round if necessary to get to all the bolts? The aux belt tensioner is above the crank pulley, you get a 14mm spanner on the centre bolt, horizontal and pointing towards the battery and then pushing down on it will release the tension on the belt, with it held down release the belt off the pulley and slowly let the tensioner come back up. It can take quite a bit of pressure some make sure the spanner is as close to horizontal (or below ie slightly pointing down) as you can and possibly have a foam pad over it to spread the load on your hand. How are you planning on getting the pulley off once the nut in undone? Thanks for the tips here mate, should come in handy. I've never had to do any work to the Supra until now so never even had to jack it up! I have a pulley puller set that another member on here recommended as they used it to get theirs off so should have that covered unless its literally welded on (the actual puller doesn't look like that sturdiest thing ever so hoping it doesn't bend or break) When I put the new pulley on, do I just line it up with the TDC marks, put the belt on and sorted? Or does the belt need to be lined up with something too like the cambelt would? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 The pulley has a key way it will only go back on one way (check the crank nose still has the notch/lump on it after removing the old one) and the aux belt doesn't need lining up at all (note with the extra diameter of the new crank pulley the tensioner will need swinging further than you did taking the belt off - also check the underside of your bonnet has the picture of the belt path or take a few pics how it goes, the first few times it's easy to get it wrong) My concern re the puller is that, with the rad still in, it will need more room at the front than you'll have? Do you still have one good hole in the old pulley, or were both sheared off can't recall... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 The pulley has a key way it will only go back on one way (check the crank nose still has the notch/lump on it after removing the old one) and the aux belt doesn't need lining up at all (note with the extra diameter of the new crank pulley the tensioner will need swinging further than you did taking the belt off - also check the underside of your bonnet has the picture of the belt path or take a few pics how it goes, the first few times it's easy to get it wrong) My concern re the puller is that, with the rad still in, it will need more room at the front than you'll have? Do you still have one good hole in the old pulley, or were both sheared off can't recall... I think both the holes are still good mate, it just delaminated and the outer ring came off, the smaller inner is still attached. It's a fairly small puller, I believe the member who recommended it did the job with the rad still in but yeah this will be an issue otherwise. If it comes to it then i'll have to find some method of propping the car up and using breeze blocks/wheels as extra axle stands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jot_ie Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 I feel your pain. My crank pulley separated last night. Be replacing it in a back garden, but still have to do it myself with limited facilities and tools. Interested to see how this goes. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 It's easy enough, im sure a member on here would be willing to lend out a pulley locking tool or you could buy one for about 80quid. I did mine without jacking the car up, you just need a torque wrench and the locking tool imo. rest is standard tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Where abouts in Wales exactly are you? I've done a few of these and will be in Pwllheli next weekend.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 (edited) Where abouts in Wales exactly are you? I've done a few of these and will be in Pwllheli next weekend.... Opposite end of the country mate unfortunately! Just a quick update, I decided to bite the bullet and put it on 2 stands and the jack on the front crossmember as an extra helper, managed the get the undertray off although it's in a real sorry state and has split down the middle! SRD aluminium replacement methinks It's hell of a tight fit down there though, how the hell have you guys managed to do it without the radiator out etc? Why does my crank pulley bolt seem to be 23mm - I thought they were 22? Maybe I'm just being a dope! Edit: So I've tried removing the drive belt, is it possible for the tensioner bolt to seize or is it just really hard to turn? I literally cannot get it to budge Edited May 13, 2016 by JordanC (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 It is 22mm the bolt head may be slightly gouged from a previous removal? Does it look a bit rough? Might need a helpful tap on? Re the tensioner don't think of it as trying to undo the nut (you are doing it up if anything!). Look at the tensioners body, the bit the pulley is attached to back to where it is attached to the block, fit your 14mm spanner so it's in the same alignment as the tensioners body. If you only have a 6" spanner it will be more difficult (it's a reasonably hefty Spring), so more leverage (socket and ratchet handle, longer spanner etc )or more effort. You may find now the tray is off that pulling the spanner down from underneath is easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 It is 22mm the bolt head may be slightly gouged from a previous removal? Does it look a bit rough? Might need a helpful tap on? Re the tensioner don't think of it as trying to undo the nut (you are doing it up if anything!). Look at the tensioners body, the bit the pulley is attached to back to where it is attached to the block, fit your 14mm spanner so it's in the same alignment as the tensioners body. If you only have a 6" spanner it will be more difficult (it's a reasonably hefty Spring), so more leverage (socket and ratchet handle, longer spanner etc )or more effort. You may find now the tray is off that pulling the spanner down from underneath is easier? Think you're right mate about the pulley bolt, will have to give it a little hammer style persuasion.. I will give the tensioner another go tomorrow with a bit more leverage and see how I get on, thanks for your help mate, I will have further questions no doubt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Take the rad OUT!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Depends on the tool you have/get but you may need to. I can sympathise because you sound like an old me, in that there is a temptation to try and get a job done removing the bare minimum. You are asking the right questions and taking your time, but with in experience there is a chance of problems. You could shear the aux tensioner bolt, I did years ago by being complacent, you could crack the rad top pipe tube it if old/original. I'm not trying to put you off at all, just keep considering each step. You don't sound time pressured to get it back on the road which is a good thing. Get that aux belt off, it might be easier to drain a little coolant (tap on the bottom of the rad battery side) this will mean you can take off the rubber top hose to give you more room, the hose can be stuck on so a small screw driver gently down the join in a few places can help break the seal and stop you getting to heavy handed and risking breaking the now more brittle top of the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 So been at this for the last few hours, got the coolant drained out, judging by the colour its due a change anyway so glad I went for the radiator out approach! Disconnected the autotrans fluid pipes etc, I've basically got the whole radiator assembly loose. A have encountered a problem though, there's a small little fan at the bottom of the shroud which Im assuming is for the auto trans fluid? One of the threads on the bolt has rounded I think so it just turns and turns. I've got everything loose but I can't separate the shroud from the rad. I've tried to just lift it all out as one unit but of course it's catching on the fan stuck to the pulley. I have loosened the pulley bolts but it's stuck fast... any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 The rad and shroud with the fan(s) still in it all come out together once you disconnect the connector for the temp sensor in the bottom tank and the fan connector. You might have to take the battery out. The rad and shroud and go back in as an assembly, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 The rad and shroud with the fan(s) still in it all come out together once you disconnect the connector for the temp sensor in the bottom tank and the fan connector. You might have to take the battery out. The rad and shroud and go back in as an assembly, too. I've disconnected all of the connectors I could see from underneath close to the rad, still seems like it's catching on something but I've undone all the bolts afaik, will have to double check, battery is already out Thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Once the rad hoses are disconnected from the rad itself, the overflow hose, two electrical connectors, (temp sensor and fan) and the two bolts on the top clamps, and the semi circular bottom part of the shroud around the viscous fan unclipped at either end that's all you need to undo, it'll lift straight up and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 Once the rad hoses are disconnected from the rad itself, the overflow hose, two electrical connectors, (temp sensor and fan) and the two bolts on the top clamps, and the semi circular bottom part of the shroud around the viscous fan unclipped at either end that's all you need to undo, it'll lift straight up and out. Hi Chris, I've checked these and they're all disconnected/unclipped apart from the 1 threaded bolt at the bottom of the shroud which is keeping the shroud attached to the rad. The issue im having is that when im pulling up, the lower semi circular part of the shroud is catching on the main viscous fan and it doesnt seem to go past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 The lower part comes off, two U shaped stainless steel clips hod it to the main part of the shroud. Lift the leg of the "U" that has a small rectangular hole in it to clear the peg it locks over, and the bottom part of the shroud will pull away, can be turned and wiggled up and out. You need a workshop manual... It's even easier to also (as well as the lower section of the shroud) take the viscous fan off, it's only four 12mm spanner size nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 (edited) The lower part comes off, two U shaped stainless steel clips hod it to the main part of the shroud. Lift the leg of the "U" that has a small rectangular hole in it to clear the peg it locks over, and the bottom part of the shroud will pull away, can be turned and wiggled up and out. You need a workshop manual... It's even easier to also (as well as the lower section of the shroud) take the viscous fan off, it's only four 12mm spanner size nuts! You're right, I'm an idiot! I checked the workshop manual and lo and behold, no 2 fan shroud In better news, the 2 clips and the retaining screw at the bottom came out no issues and up and out came the rad and the viscous fan So much more space to work with, don't even know why I was considering trying to leave it in before. Thanks for all your help guys, been doing my nut about this since 4pm so I don't think I'll be a mechanic any time soon. Edited May 14, 2016 by JordanC (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Well, unfortunately I am going out tomorrow so you and the manual are on your own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Well done Have you cracked the nut using the starter method yet? Aux belt off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 Well done Have you cracked the nut using the starter method yet? Aux belt off? I gave it a try with a cheap breaker bar and it broke the bar lol. I'm going to buy a proper one and maybe the SST from Toyota and just do it that way Managed to sort out the tensioner, I basically just needed to use a deep socket, held it horizontal and leant on it a bit and it gave so the belt is now off! Didn't seem to work at all with a shallow socket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JordanC Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 So I've been working on this really slowly but finally got the bloody bolt out last night with the help of the SST and 2 x 5ft scaff poles... hood had to come off lol My next issue is getting the pulley off the crank nose, I have a puller which screws into the small holes on the pulley and a big rod through the middle which im assuming I screw tighter against the crank nose and it forces the pulley off which would be fine and dandy but the pulley is turning when im trying to tighten it enough to pull the pulley off, any ideas? Would it be worth combining the puller with the SST to lock it or something? It's literally this gear puller but with more bolt sizes: https://securethumbs.ebay.com/d/l225/m/mdTdJJ2PzyNOYuNeqHXua2Q.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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