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crank pulley, thought few hours then found??,oh well


syco

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its mad the way 4 weeks can disappear. anyway, I made an ring to insert in the pulley gap to be able to bolt my bar sturdily to the pulley so hopefully the bolts wont shear when re-tightening.

next problem:

What as everyone done to tighten to the torque needed lol. I have been to a couple of local garages and non have a torque wrench which goes that high. Just 150 foot pounds(like my own).

even tried hire shops but only found one with 300 n-m so still abit short.

Dammed if I am spending £100+ on a new bar just for one bolt. where have you sourced you bars from??

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I didn't even know they went that high in price!! LOL

 

Might go with a Halfords job to try the starter method so if I break it I can get an easy refund!

 

Note to self: cheap ebay breaker bars + starter method = shattered metal

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Turning up a ring so the M8 bolts are not in shear over an unsupported length is a very good idea, the factory tool should be made like that. But if you are drilling and tapping new holes why not make them M10? To be honest, if you torque the bolt to 150 lbs ft or whatever your wrench's max is, then use a breaker bar to torque it a tiny bit more it will be fine.

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Turning up a ring so the M8 bolts are not in shear over an unsupported length is a very good idea, the factory tool should be made like that. But if you are drilling and tapping new holes why not make them M10? To be honest, if you torque the bolt to 150 lbs ft or whatever your wrench's max is, then use a breaker bar to torque it a tiny bit more it will be fine.

 

that's actually a really good idea regarding the m10 bolts. I have now been to five local garages and a rover dealers round the corner and none of them have a wrench which goes higher than my own. Obviously they must only torque head bolts and do all else FT. Still thinking wheither to do as you said or invest, as I will probably get use out of it but been occupied by rabbit shed/run building at mo lol.

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