ballsdeep Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) I can't work out why my afr's are showing rich at idle and cruising but don't have any running issues? Everything seems to feel just how it did after mapping, I can't find any vac leaks and Iv swapped out the o2 sensor for my spare until my new one arrives but the readings from ox1 pin still show 0.3v cold - 10.6 Warm - 11s 12s Cruising - 13s Short boost runs - 11s There was 2 changes I made which I think was before I realised the afr's was off Charcoal canister was put back in and spark plug gap opened to 0.28 then ecu reset but Iv since put things back exactly how I had it before just for peace of mind. Any other checks I can do before I get it booked in? Could it be a fuel pressure issue or map sensor? Iv forgot how to check the map sensor I get 5v from pin1 what should I get from the other 2 Thanks Edited May 28, 2016 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dim Sum Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 On idle and warm idle does look like its running rich. But cruising and on boost seems right. Do you have a fuel regulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Fraid not I regret not installing one now, is it something I could install without having the map tweaked? I'm pretty sure it used to be in the 14s at cruising Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dim Sum Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) Fraid not I regret not installing one now, is it something I could install without having the map tweaked? I'm pretty sure it used to be in the 14s at cruising 13 - 14 seems right for cruising. AFR reading start up 10 - 12 warm idle 13 -14 cruise 13 - 14 Boost 11 - 12 closed throttle 17+ I don't see why not. Find out on what psi should your injectors should be running, set your fuel regulator to that psi. Then check the AFR to see what its reading. You are better off running rich than lean. Edited April 5, 2016 by Dim Sum (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I would first look at the ECU coolant temp sensor, if this has failed the ECU will run things rich by default resulting in a rich mixture, and this will be more apparent during closed loop IE idle and cruising, however if the lambda voltage is not fluctuating that could also be the problem and have the same result. Its unlikely to be the FPR as the rich mixture would likely carry on through the load range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 The coolant temp sensor is fairly new but I would like to test it again to rule it out, could you remind me of the procedure pls Ricky. Lambda just gives a solid 0.3v but it's exactly the same with my spare even after the lemon juice trick, my new one should arrive soon so I can try that one. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 The ECU coolant temps sensor outputs a varying resistance according to temperature, if it doesn't change then its faulty, rather like the lambda sensor stuck at 0.3v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silece2k6 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Whats your afr gauge and Sensor? May you need to calibrate It again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 You say it was fine after mapping? What ECU is fitted, how did you reset it? What AFR sensor is it using, a static voltage doesnt sound correct as it should be constantly changing is it a wideband sensor or stock narrowband? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 I don't think it needs to be calibrated? it's the aem afr gauge I'm not convinced it's a faulty reading just yet as there is strong fuel smell from the exhaust at times! I forgot how difficult it is to get at that bloody water temp sensor but I managed to take a reading from it this morning so after Iv drove to work il take another, same goes for the ait sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Running e-manage ultimate and I only pulled the efi fuse to reset the stock ecu, I have the aem afr gauge but its not hooked up to the emu and then one oem o2 lambda sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Running e-manage ultimate and I only pulled the efi fuse to reset the stock ecu, I have the aem afr gauge but its not hooked up to the emu and then one oem o2 lambda sensor. Any reason you reset the ECU? As the EMU is not using any feedback the corrections it applies will be static, from memory the stock ECU is not, it learns over time trimming fuel and ignition, its a very clever box of tricks and the reason so many engines havent gone pop Its possible you now have the EMU applying the same trims as before to essentially different base maps. I cant remember, does the EMU support wideband feedback? If it does I would be looking to hook that up since you have one installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 EMU can run a wide-band or narrow-band feedback, but not control wide-band, however its kind of pointless unless your using the self learn/target AFR setting, which doesn't work that well anyway. I was always under the impression that the std ECU, like most can only learn short term fuel trim of idle and cruse, along with knock map for fuel grade, never had any problems erasing these when using EMU, besides its pretty much un necessary to change much map wise unless you are single. Sounds like the std lambda is goosed to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 If the feedback is no good then prob best to leave it off Agreed, the output from the Lambda doesn't sound right, it should be bouncing around as fueling is adjusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 I'm guessing the water temp and intake temp sensors or working OK as I got 2 different readings from cold and warm. All I can do at this point is wait a few more days until my new lambda sensor arrives, in the mean time is it worth unplugging it for now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Disconnecting the lambda sensor wont change anything, the ECU will still run things a bit rich by default, as it still thinks the sensor is dead, If IAT sensor is dead it wont change anything other than loosing temp related fuel trim, as its not a large adjustment, unlike the ECU coolant temp and lambda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Well I'm still none the wiser, just fitted a brand new o2 sensor and it's exactly the same?? I'm not hopeful but I have a spare oem ecu so il give that a try then il just have to bite the billet and let my mapper have a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Are you running larger injectors? Is the EMU powered up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Yes emu powers up with a steady green light and I think the Orange light slowly flashes. I have 550 injectors in too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Are any adjustments made to the EMU map at idle/low load, other than the global injector adjustment? and what is the lag set to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Wish I new mate? I need to learn how to datalog for any future issues but for now I'm stuck until I can get it booked in somewhere! Just tried my spare Ecu and new plugs just because I don't know what else to check but it's still no good, is there any testing procedures for the map sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 If you know how to log on the EMU just make sure you have the std map sensor selected in the log sources and post up the results here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 I'm going to have a chat with my tuner on Monday and see he will have a look and also show me the basics. It seems to me that when iv resetted the stock ecu something's changed within the map? Is this possible at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) Sorry I miss read your " need to learn" bit, no as I said resetting the std ECU just makes it erase the short term fuel, and timing trim, and relearn idle, so it wont effect the EMU, however I guess it could have had a hiccup and developed a problem. its an odd one, but I still suspect that despite replacing both the ECU coolant temp sensor, and lambda sensor there may be a problem with the wiring perhaps. Edited April 9, 2016 by Tricky-Ricky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Certainly is strange if it wasn't for the smell of petrol low afr numbers I'd be clueless, I would have though I'd be suffering from a misfire but it runs great and idles perfect. I know it's hard to read plugs but would you say these are showing a lean condition not rich?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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