and1c Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 ps Ive dropped the oil out, changing the filter too , then will change it all again once this is solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 You would first need to establish if you actually have factory fuel pressure at the moment, as anything that changes it from when it was mapped will also change the fuelling slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) Well, thanks for the help guys. I am not precisely sure what I have done that has rectified it, but sorted it is. For now at least. I checked the coolant temp sensor again, had a good look at the related wiring harness too. Removed and reconnected some vac lines, changed the oil and filter, and checked all relevant connector plugs. result? a perfect start and a beautiful idle!! AFR was 14.7 off the bat, dropping to about 12.9 ish then levelling out around 14 within a minute or so. I am puzzled, but I have the following screenshots of the Link data to see if all looks well to the techies. (Chris W!) . This is the stock map that has been on the car with the old engine. It has no cold start correction by me. Seems to be working perfectly now? At least I cant see anything overtly wrong. Interested for others thoughts. sorry for pic heavyness. Edited March 21, 2016 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 I had also changed the plugs last week from iridiums to suitable copper ones (as per the guide on here,NGK Spark Plug BCR8ES) until I had sorted the problem and because the iridiums were fouled up. That didn't cure the issue though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Can you view the output volatge of the MAP sensor in real time as you rev it up and down in neutral? If so do that and report the max and minimum values. Also, if you feel it safe, on the road under some boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 It's running sweetly now. Think it was coolant temp sensor wiring so I have redone some of it to the connector with proper soldered joints, with heatshrink on. Chris, It's not road legal yet so is only in the garage but readings were about 38kpa at idle going up to 90kpa at 3750/4k rpm. AFR was 12 from cold going up to 13-> 14+ as the engine warmed up. It's difficult because I guess I would need to take a reading under load at WOT (making boost), but it needs to go back to the bodyshop in 10 days time then its getting MOT'd then I can drive it and see where I am at! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) Sounds like whatever has been fiddled with has fixed it. I suspect it may have been the coolant sensor or the MAP sensor, electrical or perhaps pneumatic in the case of the MAP sensor. Glad it's working well, always safely store good maps, you never know when a backup will come in handy! I'd get it on a rolling road in due course and just give it a few power runs to see everything stays sensible. A means of knock monitoring would be good insurance. Did the leaking rad repair? That was a cheap car! Get a couple of spare gearboxes, it's capable of eating them Edited March 24, 2016 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) Sounds like whatever has been fiddled with has fixed it. I suspect it may have been the coolant sensor or the MAP sensor, electrical or perhaps pneumatic in the case of the MAP sensor. Glad it's working well, always safely store good maps, you never know when a backup will come in handy! I'd get it on a rolling road in due course and just give it a few power runs to see everything stays sensible. A means of knock monitoring would be good insurance. Did the leaking rad repair? That was a cheap car! Get a couple of spare gearboxes, it's capable of eating them HI Chris. Yeah, it was cheap initially.... but I've since spent a packet on it!!! Ended up with pretty much a respray, new bumper, side skirts, glass out etc I have bought a titan stage 2 race auto proven to sub 9 second 1/4s, for as and when the stock auto gives up the ghost..!! Also got a couple of tranny coolers to add imminently.. All new radiator mate, not worth messing trying to repair it. I salvaged the good bits off the old setup and added some more of my own. All new hoses, coolant pipes etc as they had started to leak due to going brittle from being stood. Stripped the engine and kept the forged bits and it was mint internally apart from the cracked block so I kept crank, etc etc . Just looking forward to driving it for a while. Planning to refurb all the calipers next so will be in touch for the refurb kits! Edited March 24, 2016 by and1c (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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