Ric Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Morning Chaps. Im going to be doing a bit of maintenance to my car in the next few weeks. Parts i have to fit: New Timing Belt New Aux Belt New Aux Pulley/tensioner New Timing Tensioner Pulley and Arm New "Grenade Pin" Tensioner New Water pump plus housing New Thermostat New Crank Pulley Hopefully a Welded Crank sprocket What other parts in this should i be looking to fit if everything is off the front of the engine? I was thinking perhaps the Crank Oil Seal? but so far mine is fine (might notice some weeping once the pulley is off?) would you change this? or is it a case of if it's not broke don't fix it? I've heard nightmares from people fitting new ones and it just blowing out all the time, what do people think? Is it just a case of pulling the old one out, pushing the new one in till it's FLUSH with the oil pump housing? Another question, is it possible to remove the whole water pump housing with all the Turbos and alternators gubbings in place? (the last time i did this i just changed the front of the water pump.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 I'd definitely reccomend doing the front crank seal mate. As you've said, pull the old one out carefully without scoring/scratching the crank. The new one needs to be pushed in so that it's perfectly flush with the oil pump housing. Any further and it will leak. I would perhaps also look at replacing the camshaft front seals and cam cover seals while you're there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cered Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Camshaft seals I think the theory is not to bother touching them unless they're already leaking, maybe the same for crank seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Thanks guys, i purposefully left off the camshaft seals as i'll be changing them when i eventually do the valve stem oil seals later on. Be good to get a few more comments on the crank one though, as it's a pain to get too otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 If you are diy'ing, and they are all dry, I'd leave them alone as you can always do it again at a later date? If you do change it, it's not as straight forward as some things it's a fairly tight fit and not easy to tap in totally square (I remember Lee of SRD saying he'd made a tool for the job), if you go past flush its difficult to recover the situation without ruining the seal ie if you balls it up you may have to put the job on hold midway to get another seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Also the grenade pin comes already fitted I think, if you pull the pin and then check the timing and are a tooth out say, you'll have to get the pin back in. You'll need a vice and importantly, just apply clamping force a bit at a time say enough to move it in 1mm, then pause a few seconds and it'll be easy to go another mm. Don't just turn the handle of the vice on one go it'll get really stiff and won't go all the way back on one go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Also the grenade pin comes already fitted I think, if you pull the pin and then check the timing and are a tooth out say, you'll have to get the pin back in. You'll need a vice and importantly, just apply clamping force a bit at a time say enough to move it in 1mm, then pause a few seconds and it'll be easy to go another mm. Don't just turn the handle of the vice on one go it'll get really stiff and won't go all the way back on one go. Thanks for the tip, i had the timing belt loosened on my last supra to do the valve seals so i know a pain the tensioners are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 My take is if the crank seal is not leaking leave the damned thing alone! Let sleeping dogs lie..... If it's a VVTi the crank sprocket is one piece and does not need welding. It's very brittle, tooth damage is easy. from rough or incorrect removal, or from previous cam belt issues. Again, if no oil leak and it's a VVTi leave it alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 (edited) It's a none VVTI chris, no issues that i know of, was a case of just replacing for the sake of futureproofing/reliability. no issues currently. I expect i can pull the sprocket off with my adjustable harmonic damper remover tool thing? as it has the 2 screw holes in it, like the crank pulley? I think ill be leaving the seal alone then, unless it looks bad when i take it apart. Edited March 17, 2016 by Ric (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Without seeing the tool it's hard to say. You'll find out in due course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 It's this kind of tool the one i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Should be fine with some big heavy gauge washers under 8mm bolt heads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Great, this is what i was thinking, the kit had loads of washers with it for that. Least im on the right path, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 If you needed a crank seal i have a brand new genuine Toyota one i got from Whifbitz here I decided to leave mine alone as it wasn't leaking and only bought it as i thought i was going to need heat to get the pulley off Hopefully your pulley comes of easier than mine did, i used the same tool in your pic, its now banana shaped but every other method failed so it certainly done its job, mine was abnormally stuck on though:thumbs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.