ripped_fear Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I would check it at the ECU pin and if that works check at the fuel pump ECU, if that works and the fuel pump is still not activating it could be the fuel pump ECU or wiring from there to the pump. EDIT: or as Chris mentioned earlier, check on the Apexi Commander if the ECU is sending the signal in the first place OK thanks how do we check that at the ecu pin? Sorry everything electrical we need an idiot proof guide. I don't think he has the commander hopefully luke can cut it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I some times remove dash panels and immediate tell the customer they are lucky not to have been killed in a fire ball. It's like in Red Dwarf "Legion" episode when he gives Rimmer his hard light drive, pulling miles of random Spaghetti out and replacing it all with a small rationalised loom all nicely shrink wrapped and tidy. I've lost count of the amount of dash clusters I've resoldered / repaired to get the oil and engine lights working again (I wonder how long they had been dead?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 OK thanks how do we check that at the ecu pin? Sorry everything electrical we need an idiot proof guide. I would locate pin 22A, if you cant get a meter probe in the back of the plug, trace the wire back to where you can get to it and put a meter across it, ideally the back of the plug as a it could be a broken wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuneR Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Check for 12v at fuel pump, then follow that wire back to the fuel pump ecu. There was a connector on mine between the two that had a dodgy connection (that and a dodgy fuel pump ecu). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Excuse me for just being plain ignorant when it comes to electrics - not my strong suit in the slightest. I am learning loads though! I just don't want to cause any more damage. But am I correct in thinking that the multimeter in the image is on the correct setting and I am sticking the red probe into the 22A and the black to ground? I just tried this only to find the battery had gone flat from yesterday's tests so I'm charging it up now and will try again later this evening. Thanks everyone for your help so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 The meter setting and your probing method is fine. I have to assume pin 22A is correct for the Apexi ECU though. Unless you have a needle probe I wouldn't back probe into the ECU connector plug itself, it's very easy to damage the tiny terminals. I would use a (literal) needle to probe through the wire insulation and inch or three away from the ecu, into the loom. Just make sure whoever said pin 22A realised it's an Apexi Power FC ecu..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Wez posted 22A in post #18 for stock connector. How do I know if it's the stock connector in use? It looked the same as that in the AEM diagram he posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Sorry, yes, I have been distracted, of course the Power FC uses the stock loom connectors, so you can use the pin outs in the link, and 22A should be the right one to probe. A new McDonalds opened here in Whitchurch today and everyone is a bit excited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 Just thought I'd put an update on about this. I couldnt deal with it anymore so I called a guy out to help me. The guy is an auto electrician and mechanic and knows his stuff and has built his own 700hp R33 so I feel confident. So he's checked over everything I checked and he's basically laughed his face off and was jaw dropped about how bad the wiring was behind the dash. There is no sure way of being able to identify where the problem was exactly because of the ridiculous jungle. To put it into some perspective, for the example, the boost controller wiring was pulled out of the car and was able to extend as far as into my neighbours garden. Dreadful. There are scotch locks, live wires hanging all over the place, wires that don't do anything and some that do much more than they are capable of doing. The person who did this might as well have left a note underneath saying, "good luck". So, with that discovery made and a lack of looms for my model, the guy has pulled out all of the wiring and decided to re-wire every little thing himself, return it to stock so he can get it started again before attaching the gadgets on properly! This is taking a while but we have got as far as starting to put things back together (as stock). This also means that I can remove the stupid custom switch and use the ignition barrel again - hooray! On top of this, I have all new coil packs and spark plugs to be installed as well an oil change, filter, sandwich adapter for my temp gauge and then in for a full remap. A bit of a road and a headache but will be super worth it when it's all done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 You know it'll be David Ginola good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 Looking back at the extensive list of receipts, I can guess it was probably done by a previous owner (not by any garage). I won't be naming and shaming but if you are reading this... Shame on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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