Wez Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Hey All, I know there have been a couple of V8 conversions on here based on the Toyota UZ engines and wondering what gearbox options have been looked into. Reading through Ryans old V8 twin turbo thread he used the TTC V160 adapters but was less than happy with them, there are various other adapters available to mount up to BMW and Mazda 6 speed boxes, I believe there are also adapters for other Toyota boxes. Are there any alternatives to the TTC adapters for the V160? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Best bang for your buck by a country mile is an up to 600ftlb Hybrid transmission for around £300 and optional extra, flappy-paddles for around £500. Full details in my signature link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Thanks David, looking for manual boxes only though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Manual-ised boxes for peanuts, is the best I can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 There's a couple of guys on the Australian forum with 6 speed V8 swaps, probably worth posting on there Alternatively, I assume some of the Toyota 4x4's had V8's and manual transmissions, maybe one of those would work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I could've sworn I've seen adapter plates for the V160/1 used by Whifbitz. Is that the TTC ones your on about? Or maybe a different one? PS: Edmorris a V8 and 6 speed and may be able to shed some light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Yep, that will be these ones I think, reading Ryan`s thread he was less than impressed with fitment and then support in fixing the issue http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/ttcpe1v1trad.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Given a decent laser cut adaptor plate that wasn't accurately drilled and dowelled to centre the g/box input shaft in the crank centreline one could weld up the holes, and re-drill and re-dowel. It is ESSENTIAL to dowel the adaptor plate to the block and the adaptor plate to the gearbox *ACCURATELY*. Both faces of a milled adaptor plate need to be parallel to one another, don't assume they are...The adaptor needs to be stiff enough. The adaptor needs to allow the input shaft to sit the correct depth within the crank spigot bearing. Using a push type clutch and a concentric release bearing like I did for the mawithsupra race car simplifies and tidies things. Doing this right is neither trivial nor quick, in fact it's a PITA given the size and weight of block and gearbox. CAD drawings help A LOT!! You probably won't have them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Chris if I recall correctly my setup has already been converted to a push type as its using the OS Giken twin plate you installed many years ago, does this help in anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashloys Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 What sort of power will you be putting out? Just standard? There are plenty of adapters for Toyota W58, IS200 boxes, Nissan S13/14/15 boxes etc. All of them except for the W58 are very very cheap if they go bang but dont hold that much power, maybe 400bhp for road use. I only know about these boxes as I was going to stick a 1UZ into my old S13. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Yep stock power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashloys Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Tbh if it's a 1UZ for example thats putting out 290bhp/300lbft (VVTi version) I'd feel pretty comfortable using any of those boxes. Theres a guy local to me that converts IS200's all the time and the boxes seem to hold even being drifted/clutch kicked on standard power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Chris if I recall correctly my setup has already been converted to a push type as its using the OS Giken twin plate you installed many years ago, does this help in anyway? Probably helps, don't forget an adaptor plate puts the input shaft of the g/box whatever the thickness of the plate is back from the spigot bearing. That may or may not be good depending on the box and its input shaft length... When I put the Tracktive sequential in my Skyline i got around this with a custom input shaft, but you will not have this (practically, cost wise) available as the input shaft will probably have a gear and synchro teeth cut on it. The Tractive one does not. Measure, check, re-measure, re-check. leave it a day and do it again when your brain has calmed down Kludges include mounting the crank spigot in the flywheel, to move it rearwards, or counterboring the back of the crank to move it further forward (crank out job of course). All good fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Then the splines on the input shaft need to be centred in the clutch plates and the splines need to match the plate splines, although different plates are available from Giken and they would do a custom pair of plates for awkward situations, although custom broaching of splines will be ££££'s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 I am planning on removing the OS Giken setup and switching to single sprung plate / cover with stock pedal feel, so flywheel and clutch are open options at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 If you can plagiarise an existing, correctly working set up it will save a lot of money and even more anguish, trust me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 I had a lot of headache with my setup, mostly due to the original clutch being too aggressive once installed, and some errorneous measurements on my behalf during the initial stages. Its a really complex job that Chris has eluded too, and quite expensive to do properly (at least for me). If I were to do it again I would go with a modern auto with paddles, similar to some of the projects that Whifbitz and SRD are working on. That way you get the fast gearshifts and some manual input, but not as much headache fitting a fully manual box to an engine that never had this configuration, coupled with the clutch noise issues. That said, I do love my manual V8!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanks for the input Ed Would you choices be the same if it was being fitted to a stripped out track car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Hmm, I suppose if lap times were your thing, then the faster paddle box would make even more sense. I drove an Ariel Atom recently around a track and that thing is insanely fun. No way I'd have been able to shift that fast. Still, a manual always feels a bit more engaging to me, so I reckon it just depends on what you want or like best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 I do prefer a manual, there appears to be some quite nicely priced sequential boxes available Ed, what did you for engine mounts on the 3UZ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 If you have any ideas about using it on the road forget dog boxes, they are simply dreadful in road cars. Absolutely appalling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 If you have any ideas about using it on the road forget dog boxes, they are simply dreadful in road cars. Absolutely appalling. OK, I think its prob best and most cost effective to get it working with the V160 instead then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Ed, what did you for engine mounts on the 3UZ? Mine is a 2UZ, and the engine mounts are Soarer ones. They're not supposed to be that great, and I always thought of getting more robust ones from either an after market supplier, or get some fabricated. Not done this yet though. Only 'issue' I've had is that the motor leans slightly on one side. I think this is due to the brackets on the side of the engine that locate the engine mounts, but this has not been investigated. It could also be the intake manifold as this was fabricated, as were the engine 'brackets' (I think). As I say, not investigated yet, as no running issues. You're more than welcome to have a look at how it all sits in the bay if you want to. Pm me if interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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