np89 Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Just thought I would start a thread in here instead as I kind of hijacked someone else's in chat. Have seen quite a few people lately aiming to make the move to electric fans, however my question is why? I am going back to a viscous setup, for the reason that the viscous fan moves something like 3900 cubit ft per minute as opposed to my twin electric fans that were moving far less. As far as I'm aware even the SRD kit only moves about 900 cubic ft per min (I may be slightly out on the numbers there so please correct me if I am), my point is, what is the idea behind moving to an electric fan setup? - Aesthetics just? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 It has been discussed a few times before, would need to dig up some really old threads. I am guessing most do it to clean up the engine bay plus depending on the kit its shiny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I think its mainly down to looks and gaining the extra hp as your not driving the fan off the engine Same reason most fit alloy radiators over stock along with they're cheaper but most don't do the job as well as OE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Yea, I thought as much. Just begged the question, Toyota obviously spent millions in R&D using the viscous fan so how or why would 2 electric fans priced at significantly less be better. I'm a bit of an OEM junkie when it comes to stuff like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I'm a bit of an OEM junkie when it comes to stuff like that Nothing wrong with that, same can be said for fuel regulators, blow off valves, induction kits etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 People always say oh it will gain a couple of BHP as the engine doesn't have to drive the fan, but what people forget that in order to drive the electric fans, and they can draw 40-50 amp on start up it takes engine power to drive the alternator, there is also the general under bonnet cooling effect that a nice big engine driven fan provides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 It was merely for aesthetics as I think different setups warrant different thought processes some people have FMIC that reduces the air flow to the radiator some people have Smics which won't inhibit airflow,some people track their cars and generally batter them and some don't their are quite a few variables to consider but ultimately the stock fan flows more air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 My Skyline GTS-t has the viscous removed and the fan driven directly. On track a big BHP engine generates a huge amount of waste heat and it needs to be got rid of. OK, this fan of mine will be taking 2 or maybe even a bit more BHP to drive, but I like an excess of cooling and allow the thermostat to do it's job. People need to see how BIG a 1.5 or 2HP 12 volt electric motor would have to be, and how much current it would draw to see that most kits just stir the air up a bit I have now seen 3 installations where the fan(s) are wired reverse polarity and are trying to push the air out of the engine bay against the incoming 70 MPH air stream. They didn't work very well at all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 My Skyline GTS-t has the viscous removed and the fan driven directly. On track a big BHP engine generates a huge amount of waste heat and it needs to be got rid of. OK, this fan of mine will be taking 2 or maybe even a bit more BHP to drive, but I like an excess of cooling and allow the thermostat to do it's job. People need to see how BIG a 1.5 or 2HP 12 volt electric motor would have to be, and how much current it would draw to see that most kits just stir the air up a bit I have now seen 3 installations where the fan(s) are wired reverse polarity and are trying to push the air out of the engine bay against the incoming 70 MPH air stream. They didn't work very well at all.... Oh dear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Keeping the rad cowl on is just as important so the stock fan doesn't just stir the air up in between the rad and the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I'm right in saying that these thermostats that people fit that supposedly open earlier will not allow the engine oil to get hot enough to evaporate any condensation out of the engine oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I've just replaced my rad as it had seen better days. I had the choice of going with the cheaper shiny version or the more expense not so shiny OEM and sticking with the ugly viscous fan & rad cowl. I went OEM I'm right in saying that these thermostats that people fit that supposedly open earlier will not allow the engine oil to get hot enough to evaporate any condensation out of the engine oil? I spoke with CW about this, hopefully he can repeat (probably for the umpteenth time) what he told me as I can't remember now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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