Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Anyone got any good tips for removing the lower boot rubbers? The screws holding the in are welded so I pulled off the rubber which has left a small metal plate and the 2 screws. I thought maybe mole grips but being as there's not much room to work with and the heads are round would they just slip off? The threads cross head on the screws are s bit rounded anyway seeing as they've even in there since the early 1900's Any help would be appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 People normally stick a soldering iron on tye screw head for a fee seconds. But if you've already rounded it, this may not work. Next stop is either cut a slot in the head, or drill it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemanhead Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 I used small mole grips. If the screw is already rounded there arent that many options left anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 I'm wondering if the old hammer and screw driver method using it like a chisel might work to get it spinning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorruptSapphire Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Did mine last year. Us a soldering iron or the gas soldering irons apply heat to get the loctite to break down and then you should be able to unscrew them with pliers or small mole grips. May take a couple of goes as the loctite cools down pretty quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemanhead Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 I'd be careful using a hammer. Maybe you could use a fine saw blade and cut a horizontal line in the screw head if there is enough material. Mole grips should work though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Did the mole grips, grip alrite on the screw head? They aren't in the best location are they. It's always the quick jobs that end up taking the time haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 (edited) The top ones were done in 1 min but the bottom ones are just buggers Edited February 11, 2016 by Andy_s-TT-Supra (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorruptSapphire Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 I used a pair of pliers and kept the heat on but yeah worked. Just make sure you watch the heat cause you may cause paint damage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Soldering iron for some heat and Junior hacksaw blade to cut/extend one of the Phillips slots to accept a large flat headed screw driver worked for me. Had to really push in and tweak the screws bit by bit, slow and sure is the way, a lack of patience will cost you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 (edited) Lol not my strongest suit but it'll have to be to get this sorted I think Edited February 11, 2016 by Andy_s-TT-Supra (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Cut the rubber away then pencil torch the bolt to free the thread lock and mole grip off ...... 10 min job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Do the mole grips get a decent grip on the head though as the plate behind the bolt looks like it could get in the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 I'm sure that comes off with the rubber, it's the way I did it and had no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Found this online showing the backing plate and the screws. With the plate there it doesn't give much room to get something on the screw heads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 You MUST, MUST *MUST* heat the screw heads smoking hot with a pencil blow torch, using scrap metal to protect the paint. Only when the Loctite Toyota used for some reason on these is killed will you undo them. Hammers are NOT an appropriate tool. Pull or cut away all the rubber block and use heat BEFORE even putting a screwdriver near them. Use a TOP QUALITY screwdriver that fits perfectly. In your case the later sounds too late, n=but still apply heat. A soldering iron has not got a cat in hell's chance of heating them enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Bugger! Sounds like a right pain in the ass for something so simple. The designer must has been blind to make it like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 (edited) Ah yes, looking at your picture I remember now, if you've screwed the heads then you may have to Dremmel the lip off the backing plate to get some purchase with the mole grips, they need to be HOT though before they'll come out. Maybe Dremmel a flat fresh groove in the screw for a BIG flat screwdiver but only attempt to remove when HOT. Edited February 11, 2016 by trebor69 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Will be a nice job for the weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Buy or borrow a pencil blowtorch, cheap as chips on Ebay and they often double as a powerful soldering iron for when you are away from mains power. They are dead easy to get out ONCE VERY HOT!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Quote I'm wondering if the old hammer and screw driver method using it like a chisel might work to get it spinning DO NOT DO THIS the metal it is sat on is very thin and it doesn't take much bashing to push it in and push the wing out on the other side !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Okey doke, will take note. I've got a pen blow torch / soldering iron coming tomorrow so hopefully with enough heat they'll come out alrite Tyson said: DO NOT DO THIS the metal it is sat on is very thin and it doesn't take much bashing to push it in and push the wing out on the other side !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_s-TT-Supra Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks to everyone for their assistance. I managed to use the pen blow torch and got the screws out with a bit of force but wouldn't have done it without the guidance provided so thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Best £7.99 I have spent (at Bobby Dyas) lately. Got them out in 5 minutes flat with 20 -30 seconds heating. Thanks also to the rest of the forum for excellent advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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