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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Speedo cluster lighting issue


CASHEYE

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Hey guys,

 

I've been talking to Heckler about this issue but I think I've reached the extent of my extremely limited ability to solve this issue and I don't want to keep bugging him about it. I've seen a few other threads on here and on other supra forums where after unplugging/plugging in various components on the dashboard, that the speedo cluster fails to illuminate when the headlights are turned on, but the solutions weren't clear. This problem extends to my rear fog light which is wired up in a similar method to Heckler's tutorial on the circuit boards he sells for the rear/fog mod.

 

So far I've done the following;

 

Checked the fuses in the drivers footwell - all are fine.

 

Checked the dimmer/rheostat outside of the car in a circuit - this functions normally.

 

Checked the fog light bulb outside of the car - this works fine.

 

Checked the LEDs in the cluster outside of the car - these work.

 

 

 

The selection lights for the gearbox (auto), the indicators and the highbeam lights all work as they should.

 

The high, dipped, front fogs and sidelights all work fine.

 

 

I've tried to bypass the dimmer using an LED to see if it would light up but it didn't.

 

 

I've got to take it for an MOT test next week and I'm gonna need to get this fixed before then. Is there anything else I should try before I start paying someone else (which I'd rather not) to take a look at it.

 

Thanks,

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I finally found my multi meter this morning and I tested the dimmer/rheostat as it advises in the 'Body Electrical' part of the repair manuals section on here and there was a voltage drop when I turned the dial.

 

Just to check the wires in the car again, I put the meter between the pins of the plug for the dimmer and there was no voltage.

 

Any more ideas?

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When switching your headlight stalk to the on/off position, does the odometer reading disappear/reappear? Mine seems to be the same problem as yours with the added benefit of what ive just explained. Great :(

 

Nope, it's just the cluster lights that don't work. I bought a replacement dimmer from Keron but that hasn't solved the problem.

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Does the heater unit light up with the side lights on? Probably worth looking at the plug on the back guages...

 

Yeah those lights work. All the other lights in the car work

 

Headlights

Headliner

Heater controls

Rear lights

Boot light

 

Quite literally every socket that has a bulb, works. Earlier I said that when I put my meter between the wires that plug into the dimmer switch, there was no voltage being shown. The engine and the headlight/sidelights were turned on. Surely that checking anything in the circuit that comes after the dimmer is pointless because there isn't any power getting to them anyway.

 

I can only access a small portion of the wiring loom to check but everything is bound together so tightly that I doubt I've tugged on and broken a wire.

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Do you mean active spoiler? I don't have one.

 

Umm right, these are the readings I've just taken (by cluster lights I mean the larger bulbs which your pcbs replace);

 

Park selection light - 10.75v

 

Fuel warning light - 10.68v

 

Cluster lights - 00.00v

 

Now the heater control LEDs are messed up anyway from the mod I was doing with different switches and lights BUT...

 

the two LEDs for 'AUTO' read at 5.35v (these are not very bright at all)

 

and

 

the rest of the LEDs read at 2.02v (these are much brighter)

 

The dimmer switch had no effect on the voltage of these readings for any of the contacts tested.

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Sheeeeeeeet.

 

Well I just went onto your website to look at how you wired up your pcbs. It says you can solder the wires directly to the circuit. But the picture for that part isn't showing up (on the pre and facelift versions). I guess it doesn't matter either way because the problem is further down the line so using something like your pcbs instead of the bulbs wouldn't work either right?

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Nope. Just remember the pcb's are polarity sensitive.

 

Ok, another idea.

 

1) with lights on, the positive pin for the lights, to a an earth point on the chassis.

 

2) a con/resistance check between the negative pin for the lights and an earth point on the chassis.

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Ok,

 

By positive pin for the lights, are you referring to the spade connector at the bottom right hand corner of the cluster unit? The IG+ ? If so...

 

I took a reading between that spade connector and the GROUND pin for the dimmer switch.

 

During this whole process;

 

The engine was turned ON

The side lights were ON

The Dimmer was connected and turned up (I turned the dimmer up and down and didn't see any change though out this test)

The hazards button was connected

The remaining info lights in the top panel were connected

The heater controls were connected.

 

The things that weren't plugged in were;

 

Mirror folding switch

Mirror adjusting switch

Cigarette lighter

Clock

Radio

 

 

Below I've included a picture of the back and I've labelled it (more for my reference).

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=208417&d=1453720393

 

So.. on a fully charged battery...

 

Readings between points and results are as follows;

 

D - E = 13.6v

 

Cluster and Dimmer

 

D - 1 = 13.4v

D - 2 = 13.4v

D - 3 = 13.11v

 

Then I measured between A8 and A9 as these pins appear to be feeding directly to the dial lights

 

A8 - A9 = Didn't register voltage

 

Then I rechecked the LED bulbs out of the car on a 12V battery and they still work.

 

Indicators

 

A6 - A7 = 10.7v / 0.79v

 

All of the lights in F still work.

 

 

I have no idea what 'G' is but it's fed from the wire on pin C10. What's the purpose of the connections on D/E? Couldn't I just wire up some lights directly to these spade connectors?

 

(I'm slowly loosing my mind).

2016_01_25_IMG_1385.jpg

2016_01_25_IMG_1381.jpg

2016_01_25_IMG_1382.jpg

2016_01_25_IMG_1384.jpg

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G is a speed converter.

 

Try the following..... with gauges fitted

 

1) Bypass the dimmer... connect GND to RTN... this will run the dash lights at 12v.

2) Bypass the dimmer, connect RTN direct to a chassis earth point.

 

Really need to do con/resistance check between. (with gauges removed, eng off)

 

1)A9 and POS on the Dimmer plug (these should be connected together)

2)A8 and chassis - Again, should be connected together.

 

A Voltage check between POS on the dimmer plug and a chassis ground point.

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