Lau Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Hey guy's, Me again this Time for radiator and fan(s)... We are talking a 750+ Supra and I wonder which radiator I should buy : Thickness ? Brand ? (Mishimoto, koyorad,...???) 1 or 2 fans ? Let's consider the money is not an argument, just what is the best ? Thanks for your help again ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Can't go wrong with Mishimoto products for the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 happy with my mishimoto rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 im far from that power level but im very happy with my mishimoto rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lau Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Someone knows why koyorad is more expensive ? Any other brands ? My first idea is to go mishimoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I had two new aftermarket rads tested next to a new stock rad, and the stock rad cooled approximately 20% better than the better of the two. You only have to look at the stock rads core tube and fin density compared to the aftermarket ones I have seen to see just how far Toyota's OTT efforts to rid themselves of the MKIII Supra cooling fiasco went. It's a REALLY good core. But it's not shiny alloy, and does not feature in rag tag magazines.... To make an alloy rad that had a better efficiency I had to be selling at close to £800 plus VAT. I had two made, and in the end heaved a sigh of relief when I flogged the last one. One of the best things you can do with ANY rad is leave the stock viscous fan and stock shroud in place. Electric fans would need motors the size of the alternator and have a prodigious current draw to come close to a stock engine driven fan. Removing the air con rad will help greatly, too. If you *REALLY* want to know what sort of rad area and air flow you need to cool around 1000 real BHP have a look at the lengths Bugatti had to go to. Cooling for a couple of miles blast on the motorway or a run then a rest up a drag strip are *VERY* different to warranting a 1 million pound car that may be run up and down an Autobahn a few times with a litigious owner just waiting to have something go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lau Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Thanks Chris for this highly interesting answer... I actually don't like very much shiny motors and I anodized in black everything that I could, my supreme goal is to have a 750hp motor which looks like it was stock (for a noob looking, not a pro or a member of this forum of course...). So if I understand well, you Advice me to keep the stock rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mika Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I had two new aftermarket rads tested next to a new stock rad, and the stock rad cooled approximately 20% better than the better of the two. You only have to look at the stock rads core tube and fin density compared to the aftermarket ones I have seen to see just how far Toyota's OTT efforts to rid themselves of the MKIII Supra cooling fiasco went. It's a REALLY good core. But it's not shiny alloy, and does not feature in rag tag magazines.... To make an alloy rad that had a better efficiency I had to be selling at close to £800 plus VAT. I had two made, and in the end heaved a sigh of relief when I flogged the last one. One of the best things you can do with ANY rad is leave the stock viscous fan and stock shroud in place. Electric fans would need motors the size of the alternator and have a prodigious current draw to come close to a stock engine driven fan. Removing the air con rad will help greatly, too. This. Just like Mr. Wilson said, new Toyota Oem pre facelift thick copper core radiator with Oem viscous fan is quite effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alxns7 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I was looking at radiators not too long ago... There are some aftermarket radiators from the company Valeo for quite good money. They have an aluminium core (stock one is copper) and black plastic ends. No idea how they perform though I ended up finding an used tested OEM one so I didn't buy that after all. Double check but Valeo part numbers are 734175 (auto) or 734174 (manual) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) If you use an OEM radiator I would also recommend using flexible hoses (eg. OEM, Samco, etc.). The plastic tanks on the OEM radiator can become brittle over time and if you use solid aluminium piping the vibration can cause the plastic to crack, usually around the upper hose connector. Edited January 11, 2016 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lau Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Thanks guy's for all your advices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mishimoto Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Hey guy's, Me again this Time for radiator and fan(s)... We are talking a 750+ Supra and I wonder which radiator I should buy : Thickness ? Brand ? (Mishimoto, koyorad,...???) 1 or 2 fans ? Let's consider the money is not an argument, just what is the best ? Thanks for your help again ! Thanks for considering our aluminum radiator for your Supra. As noted by Chris, power output is just one piece of the puzzle for determining an appropriate heat exchanger. What kind of plans do you have for the car as far as driving conditions? Drag runs? Track lapping? Street cruising? Each will demand a different level of cooling efficiency. We offer two different radiator options for the MK4, a 2-row unit and a 3-row option. Can't go wrong with Mishimoto products for the price. happy with my mishimoto rad im far from that power level but im very happy with my mishimoto rad. Thanks for the kind words guys! -John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 If you use an OEM radiator I would also recommend using flexible hoses (eg. OEM, Samco, etc.). The plastic tanks on the OEM radiator can become brittle over time and if you use solid aluminium piping the vibration can cause the plastic to crack, usually around the upper hose connector. I've just had this happen to mine. Even though I was using oem hoses, I replaced the oem clamp with a jubilee clip and I think I might have tightened it too much as the plastic caved in on itself and I started to lose pressure. Anyway, anyone know the rough cost of a new OEM unit and where to get one? (im guessing mr t) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 The top stub breaks or cracks with aluminium top pipes because the pipe and the two small coupling hoses have virtually no horizontal give. The engine, at the top, moves a couple of inches or more, side to side, with hard power on, to lift off under boost. You are asking the top stub of the rad to act as an engine stay, and it will not like that job one little bit. The stock hose just slightly folds and flexes and puts little load on the top stub. Changing things can have unexpected consequences... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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