scooby_doo_do Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Afternoon all... trying to do a Hive installation to replace my current programmer and thermostat and found myself in some difficulties (put it all back to as was now).... So i have a gas combi boiler (vaillant turbomax pro 24e) located in the loft space, a siemens RWB7 programmer located in an airing cuboard upstairs, and a Honeywell T40 thermostat in the dinning room downstairs. http://tripkings.co.uk/thermostat.JPG The Programmer and thermostat i want to remove completely and install the Hive in it's place - however on further investigation..the previous owner looks to have done some "home wiring" and has extended the live switch (yellow) from the Thermostat using the copper wire and then rejoined it at the programmer back to the live switch (yellow) wire to the Boiler. http://tripkings.co.uk/connection.JPG http://tripkings.co.uk/wiring3.JPG So i've drawn a map up of the current wiring as best can, showing the colours and junctoins of wires (apoligies in advance if this isn't great - i'm not an electrician and this was just for my understanding) http://tripkings.co.uk/wiring1.jpg Besides the wiring for the thermostat which i want to remove... i've managed to get all the wiring (I beleive) correct for the Hive using with the exception of the live switch to the boiler and possibly the wire between L and 2: http://tripkings.co.uk/wiring4.JPG The problem i'm having is where do i wire up the live switch 230v (yellow wire) from the boiler too or is it no longer required? (Guessing it needs to be there else the boiler won't know when to turn on). Thought i'd ask nicely on here first, before calling up an British Gas for a home visit. thanks in advance. Craig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 If I was you I'd first go back to the basic setup of just your boiler with no extra wiring added, then go about wiring the Hive to that. - - - Updated - - - Have you got T1 & T2 on your boiler for a remote thermostat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanya Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 What I would do is check the boiler diagram then check the hive diagram, work out the Nr of cores you need, find the live from breaker (switch breaker off in the DB to identify) and just rewire to what must be there. If you have problems with any of these steps do not hesitate to pm me bud. By the looks of it you will not need a few wires ( your diagram confuses me a bit as at the bottom you have neutral coming from Honeywell and becoming live at the boiler) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby_doo_do Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Thanks Chaps - as suggested i'll start from the boiler down and remove all the stuff i don't need. this is the Boiler manual: http://neighbourconstructions.co.uk/OLDWWW/PDF/Standart%20efficiency/turboMAX_pro_installation.pdf and this is the Hive: https://www.hivehome.com/attachment/37/download/Thermostat_Install_Guide.pdf So the only thing i'm left confused with is how does the Hive control the boiler and what terminals to use between Boiler and Hive. Good spot on the Netral from the diagram - my bad, i drew it up incorrectly. amended. many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Thanks Chaps - as suggested i'll start from the boiler down and remove all the stuff i don't need. this is the Boiler manual: http://neighbourconstructions.co.uk/OLDWWW/PDF/Standart%20efficiency/turboMAX_pro_installation.pdf and this is the Hive: https://www.hivehome.com/attachment/37/download/Thermostat_Install_Guide.pdf So the only thing i'm left confused with is how does the Hive control the boiler and what terminals to use between Boiler and Hive. Good spot on the Netral from the diagram - my bad, i drew it up incorrectly. amended. many thanks As I see it your Hive will connect using 3 & 4 on your boiler, and 5 is for the neutral, but I'm no expert, it's just makes sense to me wiring it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanya Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 If you follow my scruffy little drawing [[[= your hive will work.[ATTACH]207512[/ATTACH] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanya Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 P.S. I have put connections in the middle but it will make no difference whether you make them in Hive or Boiler terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby_doo_do Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks fantastic! -thanks for you help - that explains it! I don't have a cable from Hive Common (1) to Boiler (3) all the rest is already in place - is that required or can i link Hive L (Permanent Live) to Hive 1 (Common) ? many thanks for all your help. Craig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanya Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 No!!!! According to the description you posted the boiler has got a link between 3 and 4 when new, so should be working constantly, when you connect 3 and 4 to the switch you turn it on and off. Unless otherwise stated on your boiler terminals. So I speculate your 3 will have 230V that must be given to 4 for it to start up ( or visa versa) first connect as per the drawing bud, it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby_doo_do Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 perfecto - top man. I'll run another cable :-) thanks for all your help - very usefull! cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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