ripped_fear Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Hi guys. As most of you know Im currently getting my new supra up to scratch and am replacing the cooling system. This was going to happen next year, but a leaky water pump forced me to push this forward. Now next year I want the valve stem seals done as I get a little smoke on start up, being no mechanic I want to do have all the bits that make scene while it has this job done, so what would people advice. Want to future proof the car basically. What parts would people advice? head gasket? ARP head studs? etc etc. Trying to compile a list so I can set a target of what I need to save. Any input welcomed Thanks Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 You don't need to remove the head to change the stem seals, and you wouldn't want to anyway, could cause you further problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 oh really, like I say im no mechanic lol. Is there anything else that is worth doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I just got the VSS done because I was installing cams , I would recommend doing Tbelt , valve cover seals , cam seals (two of them, they are cheap and will be coming off too) As an option Cams Vernier Pulleys Breather setup i.e. fitting Dash AN fittings to you valve covers Because you have to strip alot to get at the VSS I did Unorthodox Racing Cam Gears Cam Seals Valve Cover Seals Valve Stem Seals Outer Cam Valve cover Bolt set SS Valve Cover Washer Seals X 16 Tomei Poncams 264 Duration Billet Valve Covers Billet 3 port Breather tank with -10 Braided hoses Gates Racing Kevlar TBelt Billet Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO.1 IDLER SUB-ASSY, TIMING BELT, NO.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Also worth considering changing the crank pulley jake, whilst it's in bits - unless you know the current one is in particularly good shape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supraleeturbo Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Do srd head refresh with some 264 cams then it's all of the above head gasket done then you be ready for single turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I did the crank pulley too so I ended up doing the oil pump while it was off lol since the sump is off, gasket in oil strainer , check big end bearings ; you could end up doing a rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 You don't need to remove the head to change the stem seals, and you wouldn't want to anyway, could cause you further problems. Im interested to hear why it can cause further problems if you remove the head? Genuinely I contacted a tuner on here a while ago who told me the complete opposite, they said doing it with the head ON can cause issues if something went wrong and is a risky way to do it, the only way to do it properly is to remove the head. Thats the reason i removed the head on my last one to do them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I got mine dont in Sit-u , it is a PITA and the risk is dropping the valve into the combustion chamber resulting in the requirement to take the head off Basically , if it is not broke dont touch it , people have had issues when the seal is disturbed on the block , the head has been in situ over a decade ; but it is most likely down to the mechanic not installing the head correctly again Reason why Owners are deterred from disturbing the block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonc Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Hi Jake When I did the valve stem seals on mine I also did the following Repaced vvti unit Cam seals Cam cover seals Cam cover breather tubes Spark plugs Checked valve cam gaps so you made need shims. I was lucky all mine were well in spec Vvti actuator seal Replaced all the coil pack connectors and even a coil pack All the vacuum tubes. I only have the standard twin set up at BPU so replaced the BOV hoses as well. There is probably other stuff but cant think at the moment. Obviously yours is not VVTI so you wont have to do some of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Brilliant guys, these are the lists I wanted Thing such as the crank pulley and cam belts, tensioner etc are going to be happening anyway. Im not going the whole hog and doing a complete re-build but if your going into the engine may aswell do the bits while your in there. Thanks guys. Anymore keep it all coming. Would also like to say I wont be doing the job myself im planning to send it to SRD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Head off to do it 100 % properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) Head off to do it 100 % properly In which case head studs and head gasket may aswell be done too then i guess This is the list so far then of parts that seem applicable to mine, Valve Cover Seals Valve Stem Seals Timing belt Timing belt tensioner Cam seals Cam cover seals Cam cover breather tubes Spark plugs All the vacuum tubes. Crank pulley ARP head studs Head gasket Edited December 4, 2015 by ripped_fear (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I'd get it checked for flatness while its off and fly cut the face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitbox Junkie Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Just go fully built srd stage engine then single Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 I'd get it checked for flatness while its off and fly cut the face Thanks Just go fully built srd stage engine then single I would mate but not got enough money to go that far yet. Plus single will not be happening yet. I have more important things to do with that sort of money for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supraleeturbo Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 In which case head studs and head gasket may aswell be done too then i guess This is the list so far then of parts that seem applicable to mine, Valve Cover Seals Valve Stem Seals Timing belt Timing belt tensioner Cam seals Cam cover seals Cam cover breather tubes Spark plugs All the vacuum tubes. Crank pulley ARP head studs Head gasket For how much this will cost in labor you might as well do Srd head refresh as you get most of that in the package and prob be cheaper labor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Absolutely no need at all to remove the head. There are a few ways it can be done to keep the valves in position whilst removing the spring to access the seal. As mentioned, anything relating to cams and their drive, so cam pulleys if you wanted to, uprated cams, belt and tensioner kit, crank pulley etc. Also an ideal time if you're planning to tidy/paint the belt covers, polish the tensioner, fit shiny pulleys etc. Things like cam cover seals etc are a given, you wouldn't use the old ones anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 If you decide to take the head off.. its the more expensive option anyway but the better one IMO, if you decide to do that, do the other things the others have listed but get the head skimmed to make sure its 100% flat and get the head flowed as well, upon checking the valve seats replace if needed. Use high quality head gaskets (no cheapo ebay jobbies) and head hardware such as ARP etc. The last thing you would want to do it build it back up only to find it needs to come apart again which will cost you more time and money. Remember the car will only be as reliable as the lowest quality part, so buy the best you can afford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Thanks guys for the input, with the list as it stands what do we reckon the damage will be then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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